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Happy 25th Anniversary 501st Legion On March 14, 1997, Albin Johnson and Tom Crews don Stormtrooper armor for the release of the Special Edition of Return of the Jedi. Changing in the same room as the popcorn machine, they laughed at how crazy the stunt was. But the fans exploded with excitement, the sight of actual Stormtroopers sending the theater into a frenzy. Al and Tom could feel it: the power of the magic of Star Wars had come to life. They created the website Detention Block 2551, telling the stories of troopers TK210 and TK512 and stories of an Imperial unit dubbed “Vader’s Fist.” Within months, Star Wars fans from all over the world contacted them, asking to join the ranks. So Albin drafted an expansive design for a virtual Imperial Squad where all fans could feel like a part of that galaxy far, far away. It would be an army. It would be a family. It would be the 501st Legion. Today, thanks to our amazing LMBO team and the work of TK-92802, we celebrate the 25th Anniversary of the 501st Legion with a logo that looks to the past, present, and future. As the twenty-fifth anniversary is the ‘silver anniversary’ the team incorporated silver throughout the logo, from the ‘25’, to the stars and design elements. The TK honors our founding members and first costume of the 501st. In 2019 the logo was updated to make an accurate ROTJ TK, and so the Death Star II symbolizes our continued growth and development over the years. The sixteen stars honor the sixteen current Detachments of our Legion. Lastly, the TIE fighter flying high across the stars represents looking towards the bright future of our beloved Legion. Thank you team for your incredible work.. Now let's officially kick off this year long party celebrating us all! Full post here on the legion forums Hopefully we sill see some legion merchandise this year.

Happy 25 years to any of our members that have been around that long. It's a huge milestone for the 501st regardless of how long you have been a member of this magnificent hobby and well worth celebrating.

@Chemi Additional pictures as requested Neck Seal Thigh Ammo Pack (inside) 6 Ab to Kidney Rivets (outside)

Thank you Mario. I like the "overlapping method" used here as that would give stiffness as if it was solid under most circumstances. I believe if I used elastic strapping (instead of non-elastic nylon strapping as I use on my shoulders) that would give the flexibility when needed. Once I get started and experiment a little bit, I will post photos. Thanks again!!

It’s possible and often used to shorten the cod/ab plate so suit shorter Troopers. Usually it’s fused back to solid though. Some keep it ” loose and some make the mod to get some mobility. I wouldn’t though as for me I want the feel of the original suit. A moving codpiece takes it away, atleast for me and not sure it will look as good as a solid one either.

I make a new post with all the photos I did of my Sonix Victory Radio 75, it's not a copy, it's an original, Vintage and dusty's radio....all the photos I post here, was to say thank you to all the people that do all the reference photos for the armours building, and pass hours, days and weeks, to make tutorial and a really strong help for all the people as me that love the storm armour and the star wars universe Regards Tony Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

I know this has been done, especially in the UK. However I have been unable to find any build threads that cover this. I plan to make the cut so that it will be covered by the ammo belt. Also planning on using 2" elastic straps with snaps. This will not only improve my flexibly in armor, but this way I can remove the cod for kilted trooping. Thanks in advance for any info or links to how others have done this ! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

https://www.denuonovo.com/products/star-wars-the-force-awakens-first-order-stormtrooper-standard-kit-pre-order It's part of their conditions of taking over the license that they can't sell these until they fulfill all backorders, and so far they've been good on that. The fact that this is up on their site is very encouraging and I know they've said they were trying to get these out in Q1. That said, it says TFA armor... and is definitely showing TLJ... so I have concerns. But it's something!

@ChemiWill do asap.

Hi, you may want to check this build thread.

I have no idea that this was possible, i hope that the more experienced chime in to share the info Sent from my GM1900 using Tapatalk

TD all sanded!

Congrats on finally getting your TK done and out on a troop. You look fantastic!

Be aware that there have been some recent CRL updates to certain items: Thermal Detonator- ANH Stunt/Hero and ESB (Basic 501st approval) The raised ribbed section of the white control panel faces the rear, with the round washer detail closest to the right end cap. Vertical (straight) sections of clips do not extend past the bottom of the canvas belt. End caps shall be approximately 20 mm in width. Thigh ridges- ANH Stunt/Hero and ESB (Centurion) Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable. Any mobility cuts on the back do not extend beyond the top of the raised ridges. Large ab button plate- ANH, ESB and ROTJ (Centurion) The large Ab plate detail shall be a separate piece attached to the raised center mounting area. Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and should show a definite straight cut edge around all sides. Ear placement- ANH and ESB (Centurion) Ideally, placement of ears (and screws) should closely follow the rear angle of trap above them. ESB hand plates (Centurion) Curve at front of hand plates shall be positioned to sit directly over the knuckles. If silk or satin gloves are worn, the hand plates have the correct visible stitching with a 5 point/star pattern, equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, double stitched with 2 holes at each point and sewn to the glove at each one using black thread E-11 blaster - (Centurion) T-tracks and grip shall be black with no silver/metallic weathering allowed.

Thank you Jim, and huge thanks again for helping me out with it!

For those aiming for Centurion (or just looking to be more screen accurate) and have gaps in the lower thigh ridges, the usual way to fill them was ABS paste. That method (although tried and true) can take quite a bit of time, uses acetone and has be sanded down and polished afterward. Below is an alternative that should take less than 15 minutes and is super easy using a moldable epoxy called SUGRU (info. at bottom of this post). It is permanent, flexible, keeps it's color, will adhere to almost any surface and clean-up is a breeze. For those in Australia, a similar product that can be used is Loctite Kintsuglue (white) available at Bunnings. Link here. Thanks to Glen @gmrhodes13 for the heads-up! For this tutorial I will be using a mock-up of a thigh ridge as an example. Materials needed: 1. 1 packet of white SUGRU 2. Small scrap(s) of ABS or any thin white plastic. 3. Small straight-edge knife 4. Pliers (if using ABS) 5. Paper towel NOW LET'S GET TO IT! Step 1- Cut small shims as needed (photo 2) to cover the rear of the gap and give the Sugru something to adhere to. If using ABS, I suggest popping the scrap in boiling water for a few minutes to soften it up and allow it to conform to the correct shape (photo 3). This is where the pliers come in. It does NOT have to fit perfectly. Step 2- After you have the right shape, cut it to fit (photo 4). Step 3- Glue it in place (photo 5). CA (super) glue is fine for this as it will not be seen. DON'T WORRY ABOUT ANY TINY GAPS- the Sugru will fill them! 1 2 3 4 5 HINT: Wash your hands before using this product so you don't discolor it while applying. Step 4- Roll a small piece of the Sugru into a strip (photo 6) and then press it firmly into place (photo 7) filling the entire gap (don't forget the back side). Step 5- Using the knife edge, cut off the excess at an angle (photo 8), otherwise you may remove some of the filled area. Step 6- Wipe the edges with a paper towel to remove any residue (photo 9) being careful not to touch the filled area. 6 7 8 9 DONE! That was easy, right? Let it dry for 12 hours or so and you are good to go. Examples of filled gaps in screen used ridges SUGRU is available online or in many retail shops, but it is sold in sets of 3 packets- normally around $10.00. **Available in the UK in single packets for £3.15- Link here. A big shout-out to Ben @Ebio Amisi for this idea!

POST 28 02‎ de ‎octubre‎ de ‎2020 - ASPERGER SPANISH GARRISON PHOTO: DANI MANTIS 1. [25 JUNIO] -- XV SALÓN DEL CÓMIC Y DEL MANGA DE CYL(VALLADOLID, SPAIN) SPANISH GARRISON 2.

POST 20 First 2 photos- "May the 4th be with you" at Disneyworld, Orlando 2017. Photographer unknown. Makaze Squad/Florida Garrison members. (I'm third from the left, rear row). 1. 2. Weird Al performing "The saga begins", Hard Rock Cafe, Orlando FL. 2016. (I'm on the far right). We even had a special coin made up for this troop and presented Al with one. 3. 4. 5. Makaze Squad, Cleremont, FL. Christmas parade 2016(?) I'm third from the left. 6.

POST 19 Feb 28,2020 TK-36544 & DZ-7863 Wisconsin Garrison Black Ice Squad C2E2 Chicago Illinois USA Photo by Brianna peterson 1.

Update: approved for Centurion! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43656-tk-19233-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-wtf-367/

Thanks! I've seen other folks use t-nuts glued into place, which is another option. The milliput felt a bit more forgiving to me, though, and I happened to have some on hand for my Doopydoo's E-11 build.