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Ok, I guess I'll go first. Something I had laying around... Black - raised black metal Dark grey - recessed black or matte black Light grey - recessed metal or metal paint EIB blue Centurion Red

FISD 15th Anniversary Coin Design Contest Closed and Winner announced Design entries Close May 1st Attention all members with serious design skills, here is your opportunity to step up to the plate and exercise your talent. This is FISD's 15th anniversary year come July, and your design could be the one chosen to commemorate this fantastic occasion. The winning entry will be made into the detachments celebratory coin marking the milestone in true FISD fashion. The coin design is first and foremost but we are also considering running a patch if the design translates well or is a good accompaniment the coin. So how do you enter? Glad you asked! Here is the low-down 1. The contest will be open to all approved members. If you can see this post, you can enter! 2. The competition will begin officially TODAY 28th March and will run until Sat 1st May. The winner will be chosen by your command staff through a Poll and the results will be made available after the vote closes. 3. The number of designs you can enter is only limited by your imagination. 4. You are welcome to use any FISD logos but we are really looking for a unique design that embodies FISD and what we stand for. Due to current Legion merch regulations there are specific things that need to be included. 5. Standard 1.75 inch size and you must design both sides of the coin so two designs, heads and tails can be submitted as a single entry. 6. Design MUST include full Detachment name (1st Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment), 501st Legion, Must contain the words Anniversary and the year 2021 plus the number 15 (we had Roman numerals on our 10th anniversary so they are definitely fine to use. Also must have the LFL C and this can appear on the edge as it can be laser etched on the final product. 7. All entries become property of the FISD/501st Legion. The winner will be announced in this competition thread and their design promoted in the following newsletter. The winner will also receive two coins free and a patch if we can make that run happen. Not only this but the kudos for a fabulous design and become part of detachment history. Oh yeah, and some serious bragging rights! The finished products will have their own sales thread(s) once the designs are approved and ready to order. Here is our Font and color guide used for official merch, if you require logo files, they will need to be requested via PM to myself with what you need.

Thanks. That's a very nice coin. I was avoiding the 3D finish as I assumed it would bump up costs, but it is very nice. The buckets are negotiable - I have options I can switch out - with the concept trooper I was just going for something not commonly seen but yet visually distinct. Yes, I'm an OTTK as well, but the difference between a ANH stunt and Hero / ROTJ / ROTK or even HWT would be lost at that scale in the final production - so it would be a repeat of the front, more or less. I wouldn't mix the two tone metal (bringing in gold) with the coloured paints (unless you meant gold-coloured paint) - you would lose the effect of the different metals and the paints might look funny - I could change the front XV to gold but I would probably do the whole coin in black metal and gold or... nickel and gold/bronze with some black accent paint. If I got away from the EIB DLT-19 I would probably drop the Centurion laurels as well on the back. Here is an earlier version I did with the larger XV in two-tone metal (raised and recessed antique bronze with raised and recessed antique nickel and black paint). This is inspired by the ten year FISD coin but no large TK bucket.

Hi Josh, the thickness of the wire makes a very big difference here. The original spring wire's thickness was 1.8 mm. A wire of that thickness can be wrapped around a broomstick for example to get a suitable result. With 2.0 mm and more it gets much harder. When wrapping the wire around the broomstick, protect your hands by wearing gloves. That makes it easier.

That forearm looks good Steven, If I can make a suggestion, it would be to trim all the Shoulder bell's return edge, or at least the more you can to gain some more room and get it closer to the shoulder bridges. Some references here. You're doing a great work !

The Scout (TB) is an old project that was never really built with the intentions of joining the 501st, so it's not currently approvable. Maybe someday, but for now I intend to put all my effort into building my OT TK to L3 out of the box. Just spreading things out, taking inventory of parts, and mentally trying to absorb the whole thing. Of course I couldn't help but jump right to playing around with the helmet. Isn't that like an unspoken rule?

Hello All, I thought a little tongue in cheek was appropriate to start off yet another Anovos build thread, number 78 if I am not mistaken . Like many I found myself unable to resist the allure of armoring up at the very attractive entry price offered by Anovos. Something I always dreamed of since seeing the first movie on the silver screen in 1977 but thought to difficult or expensive to achieve. I was unable to convince my Mom to build my brother and I suits of armor at the time so we had to settle on something a little less complicated (that's me on the left) So now here I am almost 40 years later, ready to build my first TK. Very exciting! But before I get into the build I thought I might start with how I got here. An introduction of sorts. It all started when...(insert start of dream sequence here)..... ...I was riding my motorcycle one day thinking that I could make a really cool Iron Man helmet. Some air brushing and a see through applique on the visor, simple as that. But then I thought "Surely someone has done that already!" so I consulted my good friend Google to see what he had to say about it. Sure enough lots out there. Oh well. Bubble officially burst! But then I stumbled on an image of a really cool iron man riding suit. Like so: After some research I discovered the company UD Replicas was behind the suit, who unfortunately no longer made it. But, what I discovered was even better....Batman!!! The dark knight has always been my favorite character as evidenced below (me on the left again with a broken finger...must have been a tough day of crime fighting). With much consideration and heavy deliberation I took the plunge and procured myself a new suit. However, no suit is complete without the appropriate accessories. The search for these led me to an amazing world I had only heard of but had never brought myself to delve into and could not have imagined. So after many more hours of surfing the tremendous amount of content out there I found a website known as theRPF. An incredible treasure trove of costumes and props. Oh My! So after many late nights of reading and research I got myself some gear and suited up for my first Comicon with a friend of mine...Bane! What a great time we had. We were at the con for about 6 hours during which I spent 5.8 hours posing for what seemed like a thousand pictures, even got a TV spot on YTV. How cool! I don't think I actually ended up seeing anything inside the con at all. Oh well, it was a blast anyway! So over the next while I started to make frequenting theRPF a habit to see what other favorites of mine I could conjure and collect. Then one day someone posted a thread "Anovos Stormtrooper...thoughts?" with a link to a pre-order! I think I deliberated with myself until almost the end of the initial offering before deciding that it was too good to pass up, almost too good. So with that I pulled the trigger and things were underway...well at least sort of. Still had to wait out the whole development and supply process but it didn't bother me at all. With fairly low expectations and not a lot to loose but so much to gain I patiently waited....and waited...and waited. All those months later, once the BBB day arrived I realized, oh crap! I have no idea what I am doing! Thanks to some additional threads and advice on the RPF I ended up here at the FISD. Now my second home, the first website I hit everyday on my lunch. I have been studying, reading, learning and occasionally drooling over the projects you guys share here. I love it! So thanks to all of you for enabling, teaching and motivating us newbs So that's me. With the introduction over I promise to get into more things TK related in my next post. Cheers P.S. Yes, the Batsuit is also a motorcycle suit that I actually use on occasion. Does get a lot of attention on the road

Aiden, have you started any of your kit yet? Don't despair, none of us had built armour when we started out in this hobby. Building armour it is a skill you very quickly acquire once you start, and trust me, it is not as daunting as it may seem to you at this present moment. Post up a photo of your kit first, then choose a piece that you think might be easier to start on, post up a photo of that, and we will guide you through the process. You are not in this alone and I promise you, your confidence will indeed grow once you make your first move. You can do it, I have every faith in you.

It's unfortunate that nobody can help locally, as I've mentioned in the past a lot of garrisons hold armor workshops but with covid the way it is there is not a lot of troop movement let alone armor workshops. I'm in Australia so can't help as shipping would cost you an arm and a leg and also I'm out of action due to some medical stuff. The First Order Stormtrooper is a little more challenging compared to a lot of other armor, the Original Trilogy armor does not need filling and painting where the First Order does. I think you will have issues finding an armor maker who can supply a finished kit, I would suggest reaching out to some of the makers to enquire before thinking of selling your armor. All I can suggest is keep looking through the armor build areas, the build although a little challenging has been done by a lot of people exactly in your position and they have managed to come through. If you feel you just can't it's either a case of keep trying to find someone to help or try to find an armor maker who will supply completed. Good luck

Thanks guys. I picked up a couple tubes of e6000 already and some clamps and magnets, though I may end up needing more.

I think I have seen them for sell on etsy.

Nice trimming on the ab-button plates, Richard! When painting them, remember that the paint should not go all the way to the bottom of the actual button, and don't be tempted to round out the corners. Reference image Also, when attaching your canvas belt to the ABS belt, remember that the lower angle of the 45 degree corners need to line up with the top and bottom of the canvas belt as seen below, and the button covers should not have too much space between them and the ends of the belt (green arrow). Reference image Keep up the great work, and keep those photos coming!

Hi Devin, great advances with your helmet ! The vocoder looks good as you can see in the references , and the ears small gaps are normal and the ears small gaps are normal If I can make some suggestions : The teeth paint can be improved a bit as per the crl for basic approval. just a couple of minutes with a pointed tool to remove the excess of paint. CRL: Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area... If you are planning to go for higher levels (EIB and Centurion) you may want to move the tube strips a bit closer to the cheeks. CRL : Ideally, the tube stripes are positioned approximately a pencil width from the side of the cheek. keep on doing a great work.

Thanks for the tip, and the compliment! Didn't get round to the hovi tips this weekend, so I'll remember the cotton bud for one night this week [emoji106] Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk

It’s no problem! I appreciate all input. I’d honestly love to get a 3D printer, I just don’t have anywhere to put it. First world problems! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice work, just an FYI the swoop on the shoulder bells should go forward and not backwards <--- Front Teeth and eyes are looking great, well done

I feel like I have the eyes and teeth where I want them. Unless someone offers advice on how it can be improved I will finish getting the openings cleaned up and ready for painting. Until then, time to start on.... the ears. So many good tutorials I'm hoping it goes smoothly.

I've made less progress than hoped, but that is ok. Fortunately I am not working to a timeline. I had what was a very fortunate setback. The right forearm cover strip didn't stay straight while it was setting so I had to remove it. I hadn't been thrilled with the sizing, but because of the odd curve I couldn't get it on if I trimmed it any more. The shape changed once it spent 2 days clamped together allowing me to cut over 1/2" off of each side of the area I had to remove the cover strip from. Now I am much happier with the shape. Happy setback. I have the left forearm gluing now. Lesson learned: It finally dawned on me that the curved acrylic scissors aren't for doing the curved cuts. It is an offset to allow straight cuts without the cut pieces interfering with the scissors as much. It probably should have been obvious but trimming is now much easier..... I need to do a lot more work on the shoulder (and I think I grabbed the wrong one) but I'm making progress.

Once the paint has fully dried, you should be able to scrape it away with a toothpick. This won’t scratch your armor and will allow you to work the paint back to your desired line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well done, Grave. Overall, that’s looking great. :-) Just to add to what Glen highlighted, one of the rear decals appears to be bigger that the trap and is overlapping the ridge. Also, as it’s a Centurion application I can’t help but mention the helmet alignment. Not that I expect you’ll have to change it, but more for your information if you choose to make another helmet in the future, or for any other troopers looking at this Centurion application. I wanted to highlight the construction/alignment of the helmet. As it stands, it has a very close resemblance to Return of the Jedi (ROTJ) or ESB MKII helmets. These were different to A New Hope and had a different look. Let me stress that this is not a criticism and that 99% of the public would not notice the following at all. I’m purely mentioning this as it’s at Centurion level. Here’s a look at your helmet vs an original ANH stunt helmet; And here vs ROTJ; The main difference is how the faceplate is aligned. You’ve aligned your faceplate with the eyes pointing up into the brow (green line). This gives the helmet a longer appearance (blue line) and a very angled face (red line). The ultra low brow look is more ROTJ, also. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47588-imperial-stormtrooper-choosing-your-brow-height/ The back/cap of the MTK helmet does have some similarities to the ROTJ helmet (soft lines) so this is perhaps a helmet derived from an ROTJ helmet. (I don’t know much history of MTK). Changing this at this point would be difficult as the holes have already been drilled etc. As I mentioned at the start, I would not expect you to have to change this for Centurion approval, however, it is hopefully useful information for any future builds you may undertake or, more importantly, for any troopers looking through Centurion applications for reference. If you did decide to change it, here’s an approximate example of how this could be done: Best of luck with your approval, Grave. Best wishes CableGuy

Hi. I built a sandtrooper version of the T-21. My build has some reference pics if you are interested. I didn’t print the parts myself but I believe it has a 20% infill. It’s a good idea to up the perimeters as well. I troop with mine with no problems.

Hello and welcome aboard, I think there have been very little builds on 3D T21's on the forum so far, I think perhaps MEPD may be the place to search. You may be able to use some reference build material from the T21 blaster section https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/120-minimag-ptl-missile-launcher-t-21-rt-97c-mg-15/

For larger areas of bleed yes but if you use a white that matches your armor closely you may get away with little to no cleanup

Part 2! I was debating holding off on posting for another day, but I figured I had the time to post this tonight, so let's get into it! Modifying The Helmet Additional Items Needed: Spare sheet of either ABS or HIPS (.25-.5mm) Small File I decided to start with what I felt was the hardest part of this build, just to get it over with. This would be the grove that runs from the lower traps and goes around the helmet, parallel to the black strip. Start by measuring the distance from the bottom of the faceplate to the bottom of the small trap. This was exactly 1/2 inch on my tape measure. Then mark every so often with a pencil, a point where the groove will go (use the measurement to be as accurate as you can). To help make this guide more visible on the cap/back, I used tape to go between each point. Attach a medium size cutting disc to your dremel, and secure the faceplate so it will not move at all. Following your guideline, you should make a cut that looks like this on each side: Again, secure the cap/back so it will not move. Starting from the center and working your way out, make slots with the dremel, and leave some space between each cut. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE SCREW SUPPORTS! It should look something like this: You will notice that at one point, my hands slipped and it made a cut where it shouldn't have. This is ok as errors like this can easily be fixed in later steps, don't worry too much if this happens to you. Now, use the dremel to cut the rest of the slots out on the cap/back. Now to finish the cut, take an exacto knife and cut the supports by hand, while leaving the screw slots intact: One last time with the dremel, go to the front of the faceplate, and cut the loop around the aerator out This next part take some fiddling, but you want to cut out as much of the stray supports as you can on the cap/back. You want a clear surface on the edges where the cut was made. Then with some sandpaper, sand down the edges of the main cut to straighten and smooth it out. Start with 200 grit, and work your way up to 250 or higher. Also use the sandpaper and knife to do the same to the small slots on the face plate; this will be harder as you have to work inside of the cut as everything there should still be attached. Now with the spare sheet of plastic, cut out two small rectangles that are a little larger than the cuts on the face plate. Glue them in place Now cut a long strip of the spare plastic, and make sure it has alot to work with. I cut out major slots for the top part of the cut on the cap/back, and carefully made slots for the bottom half of the cut. These slots are for the remaining supports and screw slots. It's better to cut less than more, so slowly make these cuts deeper and wider as needed, bit by bit. you should get to a point when sliding the pieces together, the groove is the same width as the grove on the face plate, and they should line up. Glue the pieces together to finish the cap/back (do not glue it to the faceplate). Take the loop cut off from the faceplate earlier, and glue it to the neck/ring. While you are at it, glue the clip greblies and the button greeblie to their original position. Now Take the faceplate, and a small file. The file should be able to fit inside of the tube stripes. Use the file to shave off the tapered edge of each stripe. Here is a in progress pick to demonstrate what I mean: Once they are finished, take the file and clean up the edges and corners until they are looking very nice! Tomorrow's steps will be filling with Bondo and sanding, as well as a final preparation for painting!!! Until then, I'm signing out

Progress!!! I finished the eyes and frown today!! Stephanie | Cadet #2025