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That’s good advice. I had thought about a paint pen as well, if I can find one in enamel semi-gloss black. I would like to have all hand painted and may tackle this in the future.

Wook1138 and Tarok, many people have the same thing and I believe you all are correct. Daetrin, cool, thank you. Morgul702 and ukswrath, in reference to the thigh strapping, I am unaware of anything known for under the armor. What we can see is the two (presumably 1” black nylon) straps that come down on the side of each leg. Speculating, it looks like they have a black plastic side release buckle on them that is covered with black elastic. I infer this because this is a common practice to cover the buckles with elastic in the tactical webbing community on slings. Here is an example of a sling with the elastic covering a buckle and a hook. The side release buckle being mounted here would ensure easy donning of the armor as well as provide a method to adjust the height of the thigh armor. I built my ROTK strapping with this method in mind. As for a belt, who knows? I built my kit with a belt but ultimately mounted the top of the thigh straps inside the abdomen. Since this has already gone beyond the original topic and deep dived into how the ROTK is constructed and after some time working on my Shoretrooper and reviewing Mr. Pauls FB page (total grunt) I see a lot of information that is evidence with the Shoretrooper that we can assume but not prove for the ROTK. The Deathtrooper, Shoretrooper, Tanker, and ROTK have a lot of similarities and one would expect that most of the processes and manufacture of these costumes are the same. So, here is some food for thought. We know that the ROTK uses the same shoulder bell metal supports as the Shoretrooper. Here is your evidence, and yes, I still maintain that the elastic is black. Notice the “D” shape under the elastic. From Mr. Paul’s FB page here is what the metal supports look like. Here they are mounted to the chest plate of a Mr. Paul built Shoretrooper. Next here is another Mr. Paul built Shoretooper chest plate with the shoulder strap and metal supports. And here is a pic from Mr. Paul’s Shoretrooper where I have “roughly” outlined the metal support. Lastly, here is a Deathtrooper (from celebration I believe) and we can also see the snap support inside the shoulder bell. Next, there was a discussion back in 2018 in the CRL thread about (as stated) the two tabs on the bottom of the kidney pad. This was one response with arrows of what the responder though the op was talking about. However, knowing now what I do I think the op was referring to the two tabs on the bottom of the back plate that you can see just above the thermal detonator. Although these appear to be shorter in length, I believe what we are seeing is very similar to what Mr. Paul did with his back plate for the Shoretrooper. In this pic you can see how the Shoretrooper back plate attaches to the back hard belt. I believe the TK back plate does something similar; however, it does not actually attach to the belt as we can see in the pic from the CRL thread, it looks like the tabs end just before the attachment hole. On the topic of soft goods, here is a pic of a confirmed Shoretrooper undersuit. Notice the specific mesh in the arm pit, the full-length zipper down the front, Velcro (presumably to assist in supporting the abdominal plate) the distinctive ribbing on the sleeves and the thumbhole at the end of the sleeve. The Shoretrooper also has a separate neckseal/ bib that hides the zipper and has distinctive horizontal ribbing. I am not saying that the ROTK uses this same undersuit but we can assume that many of the features were most likely incorporated in the ROTK undersuit. Lastly, we have seen this pic of what looks like a screen used ROTK abdominal plate with a suspension system. From this image we can assume that the ROTK used this suspension system as well as the corset zip closure that is velcroed in the back. What is not as evident is if the ROTK abdominal plate uses the connection tabs along the bottom edge like the Shoretrooper. It is hard to tell from this pic since there is a white belt with Velcro around the bottom of the abdominal plate. Also note the black strap protruding from the bottom and along the side of the abdomen plate. This is most likely the attachment strap for the thigh armor. Also, there is some sort of secondary suspension system (similar to a back belt for Warehouse workers that sits under the primary suspension system. Perhaps this provide some padding but otherwise I see no need for it. So here some pics of Mr. Pauls suspension system from his Shoretrooper and we can assume that the ROTK uses a very similar system. Ok so that is all I have for yall at this time. Let me know what you think.

The Testors Model Masters line comes in both acrylic and enamel, but unfortunately has a limited number of colors so I would go with their regular line of model paints. To remove the acrylic paint I suggest Goo-Gone or a similar citrus based product, NOT acetone or the like. Satin Black: Testors # 1747 for vocoder, trap/ tear/ear bar outlines/stripe(s), TD screw heads. Gloss white for all rivet heads (excluding cod rivet). (Hint: Sand the heads down first for better adhesion). I believe Dave supplies the decals** for the traps and tube stripes, but if you decide to paint them go with: Gray: Testors # 1138 for trap/tear drop/ear bar background, ANH frown and ab-buttons. French Blue: Testors # 2715 ForTube stripes/ab buttons. **Decals are acceptable for all levels.

Also you will need either a blaster or lightsaber: "While blasters (weapons) are not required for basic approval, for EIB and Centurion levels they are, and may need upgrades (also listed in the CRL)."

Nice work, something that stands right out which you may want to correct before the DO's see your application is your shin closing, they need to close outside over inside you have them opposite, this is so the opening can not be seen from the outside. Also the cover strips should stop before the ridge on the bottom of your thighs and also on the top of your shins. Cover strips should also stop above the lower thigh ridge on the front also Although a weapon is optional for basic approval it is a requirement for EIB

I have found acrylic comes off plastic quite easily, I use it for weathering on some projects as it's easy to rub off, using enamel based paint will make sure it lasts

Hi Stephanie! The kind of paint you have there is acrylic, which may adhere to your helmet (and ab buttons) at first, but unfortunately it will simply not last, and will flake/rub off very quickly. Water based paints simply do not bond to plastic the way enamel (oil based) paints do, so it's better to go with enamel from the start. (Trust me on this one). You can pick up small containers of enamel paint at any hobby/craft store, and I also suggest purchasing some quality brushes to apply it with, not those cheap "throw away" ones you find at discount stores. Bad brushes = bad results. I would also recommend picking up some mineral spirits to clean the brushes with (thoroughly) after each use. This is your build thread, so please feel free to ask ALL the questions you have... we are here to help every step of the way! Posting photos will be very helpful, especially when you come across an issue that you need assistance with.

CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST (for all non-FO TK costumes) Mandatory Information: PHOTO GUIDELINES ___ Armor Maker Photo size- At least 800 X 600 (preferably 1280 X 960) ___ Helmet Maker Good lighting ___ Blaster Maker A neutral (solid) background color is suggested ___ Link to your EI Approval thread ___ Permission photos social media: Yes IMPORTANT!- Example photos can be seen below, but all photos MUST be 800 x 600 or larger to show details. You MUST include a link to your EI Approval Thread with your submission PDF Available for download/printing here:CENTURION PHOTO CHECKLIST-converted.pdf Optional information: ___ Full name ___ Height/weight ___ Boot maker ___ Canvas belt supplier ___ Hand guard supplier ___ Holster maker Please be aware that all photos listed below are required for approval Full Body 1. ___ Front (Arms flat by side, no weapon) 2. ___ Back (Arms flat by side) 3. ___ Left side (Arms raised) 4. ___ Right side (Arms raised) 5. ___ Left side detail (arms raised) 6. ___ Right side detail (arms raised) Armor Details 7. ___ Cod and posterior plate connections showing rivet/snaps (exterior) 8. ___ Shoulder bridges- Front/rear/sides 9. ___ Thigh ammo pack connections (interior and exterior, left and right sides) 10. ___ Sniper knee plate (left and right sides) 11. ___ Wrist openings 12. ___ Abdomen button plates (close-up) 13. ___ Posterior plate/kidney connection (back and/or front) Helmet Details 14. ___ Front 15. ___ Left side 16. ___ Right side 17. ___ Rear 18. ___ Close-up of Hovi tips 19. ___ S-trim (side view) 20. ___ Ear screws (close up, left, right and bottom). Accessories 21. ___ TD (Thermal Detonator) front and rear showing screw type 22. ___ Hand guards bent showing flexibility 23. ___ Holster attachment 24. ___ ABS/canvas belt (rear, showing drop boxes) 25. ___ Boots (tops and sides) BLASTER 26. ___ Left side 27. ___ Right side 28. ___ Rear (showing D-ring) Important! IF A PARTICULAR DETAIL IS NOT CLEARLY VISIBLE, THE APPLICANT MAY BE ASKED TO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL PHOTOS. Model: Philip Aitken (Ruffalo) TK 41808 Armor type: ANH Stunt FULL BODY 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. ARMOR DETAILS 7. 8. (Front) 8. (Rear) 8. (Side) 9. (Left) 9. (Right) 10. (Left) 10. (Right) 11. 12. 13. HELMET DETAILS 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. ACCESSORIES 21. (Front/top) 21. (Rear) 22. 23. 24. 25. BLASTER 26. 27. 28. A big shout-out (and many thanks) to Andrew (Sly11) for doing the PDF for this!

James Machin TK19758 FarEast Japanese Garrison Height:188cm (6’3) Weight: 90kg More photos to come More photos to come

After pining over this character for nearly five years, I have finally committed to building my own set of armor. This will be my very first armored costume, so I’m quite nervous about it. Depending on who is measuring me, I am about 6’ tall (give or take an inch), so the prospect of portraying a tall character like Captain Phasma is something I am really looking forward to doing. I chose to do The Last Jedi version simply because I like the bright chrome look over the weathered version. Pieces of my costume: Helmet: Shawn Thorsson (first run, 2015) Armor Kit: KB Props (on order) Boots: Dr. Martens Flora Chelsea Boots Neck Seal: Geeky Pink’s Fabric Gaskets: Geeky Pink’s Rubber Gaskets (for EIB): ??? Belt: ??? Undersuit: ??? Cape: Sewn by me I’m still in the early stages of building this costume, so my first steps are to prepare the helmet, order everything else I need, and start on my cape. I do plan to eventually submit it for EIB status, so I am not cutting any corners along the way. This is going to be fun, I think. Terrifying, but fun.

Name : Fernando baro 501st ID : 29415 FISD forun name : Bareta Garrison : Spanish garrison Armor : Armour Factory (kit) Helmet : Armour Factory(kit) Blaster : Armour Factory Height : 177cm Weight : 82kg Boots : Armour Factory Canvas Belt : Armour Factory Hand Plates : Armour Factory Neck Seal : Armour Factory Holster : Armour Factor

I cleaned off the hand plates, set them up, and primed! I had to spin it around and get low to really coat everything. It took 5 coats, and I gave a few minutes between each. I'm going to wet sand it tomorrow, but can only see a couple pinholes that might need filling! I also sanded the repairs on the barrel and the cured resin on the thighs, trauma plate, and knee ammo.

Hecho, gracias

For fine lines that are a little wonky you can go over with a black permanent marker, a little easier to control compared with a paint brush

After I painted my traps and tears, they looked pretty decent. I was going to hand paint everything, but when I got to the point of trying to paint the lines on the traps, I quickly realized my hands weren't steady enough, so those decals Dave provided started looking better and better. Needless to say, I removed the paint and took the easy route. The decals he provides look really good on the helmet.

I really can't believe that I've only just landed here! It began with a GT/FX set nearly 16 year's ago! The evolution of the available armour and the people in the community is amazing. It's a great place to be. ...

That's a lot to consider, while I determine how to strap my R1TK. I GREATLY appreciate the time and effort you've put into this!!

Trimming the sniper knee at the weekend then just got to find time to suit up and get the pic's! Got to give centurion a shot!

Hahaha! But the fitting step IS the fun part, doesn't he know that?! Only on the front side.

thank you for all the links!

I really appreciate the help! Like I said I paid very little for the armor that I got, so i'm alright with spending some more to make this thing better than it already is. I'll try to send pics tonight so you guys can see it and help me with what all needs to change

Looks fabulous Christine

If you're going for TLJ, you could look into adding the elbow mobility cut to the top of the forearms. As far as I know, all of the stormtrooper armours in TLJ had that cut, and it will help you guys to wear the forearms facing front as they should instead of twisted outwards as you have them right now. You can read more about the mobility cut in that thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46766-episode-9-stormtrooper-research-caution-spoilers-ahead/page/12/

Thank you Mario, I have started working on it but am not quite finished and must switch gears. I will be on assignment for a couple days (taking the kids fishing). I'll post up new pictures after the weekend.

Finished up the strapping for the torso and chest, then it was time to finally try this thing on. If anyone is willing, I would greatly appreciate critiques at this point on what I can do to make this look better. I am still waiting for the belt to come in, after which I think things will snug together much better in the waist area.

First I gotta share this little guy who I bought a couple of months ago and has been a huge help with the ammo belts, drop boxes, and shins. ‘Twas a good purchase On to the shins! Rough trimmed with 20mm strips on the front: ... and 25mm on the back, with 5-10mm glued to the outside piece: Return edges removed and bottoms trimmed to the same length: Holes drilled roughly 10mm in from the edge with a 5/32 inch bit for strapping using the markings on the armor as a guide: Strapping next!

Thanks for the advice guys. Before I make start on reshaping the torso pieces, I want to share my experience after finishing the forearms. Last time I tried to reshape these, the glue on the coverstrips deteriorated. So after removing and regluing, I left the arms for a week and tried again. I filled the pot with water, brought it to the boil and submerged the forearms. After leaving them in for 45 seconds, I sqweezed the halves together and ran them under a cold tap for a minute. Now they have less tension and are easier to bring the halves closer together. Not only that, but this time the coverstips have remaind firmly attached to the forearms. After several hot water baths, I then glued the remaining coverstrips onto the arms to bring the halves together. I glued the edge-to-edges together with the inner strips first to get the forearm shape, left to dry, then glued the outer coverstrip on top. Fortunately only 1 cover strip moved to the side a little and had to be removed and reglued. The other 3 stipes stayed in place. All things considered, that's still pretty good and I am pleased with the overall result. During the coverstrip glue process, I used a grey lead pencil and at the end of the coverstrip, marked the centre at the end and aligned it where the forearm edge-to-edges meet. That way, I would be able to see if the coverstrips moved and by how much. The forarms are finally completed. Hopefully I've removed enough on the wrists. There is a small 1-2mm gap on some parts of the wrist and elbows where the 2 halves did not meet. When my kit is finished and ready for L 2 and L3 approval, I'm going to make some ABS paste and do a touch up on those parts, along with wet sand and polish on any other pieces that will need attention.

PDF now added.

Noted. All feedback welcome.

Hello and welcome aboard, looking forward to seeing your build progress, good luck

Looks awesome, amazing work, wish I had a little one I could make my Mini Mee

Amazing!! looks great kid !!

Hi Adam, This is definitely a "So stranger thing" , I was going to suggest Super glue too as the last resource and let it dry ,clamped, at least 24 hours. Good luck Trooper

Hi Roxanne, welcome to FISD. Glad to read you have started make your dream come true. and Yes, at the beginnig it looks terrifying but if you take care , "measure twice or more, read the crl carefully, look at the reference photos and glue just once" , you will enjoy the process . Looking forward for your BBB day and Build Thread ! Good Luck

Gloves. Impossible to locate somewhat screen-accurate gloves in Cameron's size. I even bought a pair of FOTK gloves from Endor Finders in their smallest size, but they are huge on him. I decided to upgrade the old gloves he wore with the old suit instead. These are Rubie's kids size FOTK gloves. Essentially, they are made of stretchy polyester, white on the palm side, black on the back of the hand, and a piece of white foam stitched on the back of the hand to simulate a hand plate. It was simple to remove the foam plate with a seam ripper. Then I added velcro to the backs of the plates and back of the gloves. Done! Next, I decided that I could do better for Cameron's leggings for his undersuit. While they seemed somewhat suitable under the armor, they were really too big. I was constantly failing at finding a pair made from the stretchy shiny material I wanted that would actually fit his toothpick-legs. The only solution left was to make a pair. Which I have never done before. Still, sewing a pair of leggings looks easier than sewing a shirt... So I taped together a bunch of tissue paper to make a very large sheet I could draw on. I folded the "too-large" pair of leggings in half and traced the shape. Then I cut out the leggings shape slightly smaller than the original (ha! I now have a PATTERN!), and placed it on two layers of stretchy shiny black fabric. I traced the pattern piece on the fabric, cut out the fabric, sewed the edges, and voila, I ended up with some slick leggings. Big hurdle was trying to sew the waistband on these, though. The material likes to stick and stretch on the sewing machine plate. I ended up applying blue tape to the areas where I needed to sew to stabilize the material and allow for it to better slip under the presser foot. It worked well, but man, a total PITA to remove. Once I sewed the waistband and removed the tape, I had myself some leggings! Shiny! Here's what the old leggings vs the new leggings look like. Cameron is thrilled with the better fitting leggings! He reports that these new leggings are so comfortable that he did not want to take them off. Seriously, I had to do an incredible amount of pleading to get Cameron to change out of them. And I guess I'll keep the larger leggings for when he (eventually) grows.

Impromptu Full Suit Fitting and Assessment Progress on thighs was so good, Andrew H (TK-14023) and I decided to suit up and take some progress pictures to assess how far we are from submission. There is no neck seal in some of these photos, and as we were doing a thigh fitting and trimming, there is no holster attached. Front: Back: Left side, arms down: Left side, arms up: Left side, arms up, close up with rivets, no holster: Right side, arms down: Right side, arms up: Right side, arms up, close up of Han snap: Action pose: 1977 Star Wars card (I always wanted my own Blue Series card): Items for this that remain to be done: Finalize thigh cuts and strapping. Glue outer cover strips on thighs. Submission photos!

Never Skip Leg Day Progress-to-date on legs, both thighs and greaves Key resources consulted: AJ's AM ANH Stunt build (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40831-ajs-of-am-20-build/) LTM's AM TK ANH Stunt build (LTM's AM TK ANH build) TK-32568 EIB Submission (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46507-tk-32568-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-am-892/) TK-32568 Centurion Submission (https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46815-tk-32568-requesting-anh-stunt-centurion-status-am-432/) Crowdsourced suggestions in the AM Armor's Costuming Facebook Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/840018932822639) Andrew H, TK-14023, who has helped directly with advice and fittings and material components. (Thanks TK-14023, you're the best!) Thighs Front trimming in process: Back trimming in process: Front left thigh, gap filled: Back left thigh, back inner cover strip glued: Front right thigh, ammo belt attached with ridges centered to cover strip: Right side right thigh, ammo belt attached (temporary): Left side right thigh, ammo belt attached (temporary): Back right thigh, inner strip glued and ammo belt attached (temporary): Greaves Left front greave with sniper plate attached: Left side left greave (outside) with sniper plate attached: Right side left greave (inside) with sniper plate attached: Back left greave: Front right greave: Left side right greave (inside): Right side right greave (outside): Back right greave: Greave closure detail: Andrew H and I made so much progress with the thighs that we did some test fittings -- pics in next post!

Proud to announce, that my son is officially a member of the Galactic Academy. Cadet CID 5131 reporting for duty.