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RE: Belt boxes,the dimensions of the TFA production created boxes are as follows: RIGHT HIP Small Box 102mm L x 74mm x W x 22mm D Large Box 133mm L x 74mm W x 35mm D CENTRE BOXES White Fascia 124mm L x 47mm W x 12mm D Black Back 10mm-15mm POUCH FASCIA 162mm L x 83mm W x 8mm D The black back to the centre boxes as a curved piece made from resin. It was 10mm at the centre point, 15mm at the edges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Definitley...EIB is already in work and the Heavy Weapons Trooper will soon be handed over.

Got my dancing shoes ready, going to paint the town red and hunt me some rebel scum. Temp Shock Trooper boots using my first TK boots, first painted white and now red and dirty These are a Chelsea style boot, stripped and then painted. The only issue I wearing them with my stormtrooper was the low neck, meaning the shins got caught on the boot. I plan to replace them later with a pair of magma boots from Imperial Boots. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Work from today: Getting close!

Hey guys - I got this graphic from a friend and wanted to make something the same but with just two alterations: 1. Swap out Connecticut for Washington 2. Change the purple fleur de lis to the same green as the WA state flag. I'm hoping it will be simple, and am offering up FISD swag to anyone who can help out with this. Yup, I have coins, patches, whatcha want? And yes, I'm a Freemason (20 years, past master of my Lodge) and a Scouter (Assistant Scoutmaster for my daughter's troop and Troop Committee for my son's troop), so this means a lot to me. A

@gmrhodes13Thanks!

Generally we try to match the fronts to same size which is normally 20mm thighs and shins but as you can see from the screen reference posted by Paul 25mm is fine at the front (also the back) just don't add rivets

Hi folks! I've come back from a long hiatus! Life got really busy so stepped away from things to build over the Spring months and got busy in the Summer building a steampunk costume to go Halloweening with my kiddies. I pulled off custom boots, even gauntlets and also made-over a nerf blaster with steampunk color palette. A whole lot of fun but I digress .... My E-11 Blaster! It's been a long haul, a fun one, but I need to finish!! With all parts painted and weathering and sealant clear coat remaining, I am assembling the various parts. Rear of the Exposed Bolt I scratch built my ROTEB (rear of the exposed bolt) to originally accomodate electronics. It is a bit odd shaped with an enclave that was to accomodate electronics coming out of the trigger assembly part. I placed some green stuff inside the enclave so to better stabalize the wood screw that holds the charging handle in place. On instalation, I dare not install the screw to close inside the handle because it narrows quite a bit. Custom Barrel I custom built a barrel to kinda look like the real-deal. As the doopydoos muzzel has the screws poking inside the reciever tube already, I had to pull back the support end from the front of my barrel and pulled it back to around behind the bayonet lug. Spring Cup I'm a sucker for trying to build my doopydoos to closely resemble the real sterling piece as close as possible. I made a spring cup to place inside the ROTEB complete with 'spring' inside. JK, I faked it with an appropriate gauge of solder and curled to correct OD shape. ROTEB Stopper I placed, what I'll call a 'Stopper' for the ROTEB. Again, fashioned to orginally accomodate electronics. I was sure to install the barrel first =) Installing the ROTEB Here is the ROTEB in it's semi-installed state. The whole shows where the wood screw will come up from to grab the charging handle and have it put in place. ROTEB Cover It was perplexingly fun to scratch build my ROTEB cover with clearing strip. Thanks T-Jay for your detailed post =) I cut numerous sheets of plastic to size / shape and glued with E-6000. Metallic paint on-top with the clearing strip sanded down to show wear. The end closets to the charging handle was rounded off so to accomodate the round bottom of the charging handle. The other end of the cover was made a bit short to mimic the lip of the spring cup. Exposed bold Plate My custom exposed bolt with extractor and plunger took a while to get right. Again, was made as a plate to accomodate electronics. I had to bend my alluminum piece just right so it sat recessed, giving the illusion that it can enter the reciever by showing off one mm or so of reciever lip. I refrained from attempting to put in serial numbers on my exposed bolt; didn't have the correct number sizes. Up next ... Grip and Trigger Group Install That's how my build stands at the moment. Grip and trigger group are painted and ready to get on to that reciever tube! Ah, this is the moment when the build really starts to resemble a blaster. Thanks for dropping by; have a great day!!

Well, it's from Canada and he doesn't ship to Germany. Shipping would probably kill me anyway.

Left Side Pouch Cover: The pouches from Trooperbay arrived just as I finished with the box prep. The left side cover feels a tad small. The Velcro doesn’t fit flush against the inside, but rather, it bends around the corners. I don’t think this is a deal breaker. Once I find something to fill the pouch with, it might fit better. It’s a close fit. The photos below illustrate the length and width of the Velcro vs. the cover. Note, I have offset the cover so the Velcro height/width can be clearly seen.

No way to troop unless the mail with the onboarding stuff of german garrison arrives. (he got approved at same time as me and we are both still waiting on that mail (see german garrison public forums) Sidenote: his "new member" list entry at 501st.com was next to mine)

These are great - thanks! Both earn FISD swag. Here is a question though - I'm not sure that the grey on the outside looks good. I'm wondering if there is a better color combination? Would a sans serif font be easier to read?

That's it. Great Trooper !!

Also don't paint the upper corner ab snap

If you haven't already done so, I would suggest adding interior cover strips inside the front calf connections. The reason being is because those particular connections gets a LOT of stress from opening/closing the backs when suiting up. They don't have to be pretty, lol, as no one sees them anyway and it takes some of the stress off the front cover strips.

Congratulations! Looking Sharp! Have fun out there Trooper!

Congratulations trooper, welcome to the Legion. !!!

Congrats Trooper You make us stronger ...welcome to FISD .

Welcome, Carsten, and a big CONGRATULATIONS! That is one sharp looking set of armor, sir.. as Tino mentioned, you should really think about applying for the Expert Infantry badge!

Congratulations Carsten and welcome to the FISD. There should be plenty of opportunities for trooping during December. Any plans to aim for the higher levels? (EIB and Centurion)

Congratulations trooper! Welcome to the knights in shiny white armor!

To be honest, although it takes a bit of time and effort making your own is really not that difficult. The various sizes/lengths of nylon webbing, elastic and snaps can be purchased either online (like ebay) or at a craft store like Joanne Fabrics or Michael's. I have the list of materials you will need in my Supplies thread and a tutorial here. I know at one time Sarah @Alay was selling a whole pre-made kit, but you may want to contact here to make sure those are still available.

Chest Plate: Nice pull. I left thick return edges but I think these will get adjusted later during fitting. I started cutting out the pill holes by eye but I could not see the edges very well. So I printed another vinyl stencil to help keep me on target. Question: For Centurion I need to show "clear separation" between the plates. I assume this means I need to cut the parts away and reconnect with a gap?

Nice! Too bad Disney refuses to personalize anything Star Wars, this would be a nice addition to my collection.