Leaderboard

Hi Josh, Thanks for your application for Centurion. We always appreciate seeing our fellow troopers aiming for our highest level. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements All required photos are now in and, after review, we are pleased to welcome you to Centurion! On behalf of the DO team and myself, many congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly In this area we discuss areas that could benefit from additional improvement. Note that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions Just a couple minor suggested fixes that we here at the Deployment Office would like to see. Looks as if you could touch up the paint on your D ring Also looks as if you could use a little adjustment on your thighs to get them a little higher about an inch or so. I know on mine I had to get rid of close to all the return edge I've put you next to the CRL model and you can see how it looks comparison The last thing that draws my eyes are your shins, I would like to see a bit more taper to them and it'll give those rebel scum less of a target. Reference Photo You were my first EIB application and as Sha Sha said I've might have had you jump through a couple extra hoops then required but the payoff is a really clean build and an great set of armor. - congratulations trooper & welcome to the ranks of Centurion!

Ok looking at this one and the one you first put lines on I think I can see what the goal is . Using some visual angles helps. When looking from top down and imagining the gum line and then the same for the top. That's why I also showed my original paint job ...because I definitely did that and then over compensated. And had a little run off ...think I can clean it up. Thank you will post pictures as soon as I'm done. Also waiting for nylon strap to come in Friday and make the changes over the weekend. TY again for the reference . As for my frustrations it's not anyone but me causing it losing eyesight as a artist is the worst. Just glad this is paint and not bad cuts on plastic

Not been doing a good job documenting because the past two weekends have been ridiculously busy for me. First had a friend visiting from Texas, then a friend from NY, and I was playing endless tour guide. Luckily though, New York helped me fit the chest plate. However, I noticed that due to my epic vertical challenges, the chest plate is a smiiiidge longer than I need, but I think it can be fixed by curving the shoulder straps a bit more. A little scared of using hot water or a heat gun, considering how klutzy I am. I also shaped and fitted my bicep armor and forearm armor. I did, however, decide to play with the ABS paste and used that to join the seams. Unfortunately I found that there seems to have been bubbles in the paste, as when I sanded they were revealed I think after Halloween I will want to learn more about bondo or something, for now it's passable. I also worked on my bucket the past few days... gluing was a breeze, but cutting the face shield was not. It's currently setting right now, hoping I won't have to adjust it because it was a royal pain. Trying to get as much done this week since I'm going to try and attend the Santa Clara City Library Comic Con that @shashachu invited me to, but I'm just a smidgey worried about transportation and time constraints. Next weekend my parental units are going to be in a town, so eeeeeeverything has to go into the closet: armor, personality, individuality, orientation.... oh hey maybe that's what the Stormtrooper program is like!

I've ordered stuff from international sellers before and understand the long travel times. The thing that is killing me is their refusal to provide details, things like what courier they are using and a tracking number. I'm shocked honestly that what should be a simple piece of data to provide is causing me so much anxiety. I'm going to dial my focus into getting D-O driving around. That should distract me from the pile of FOTK parts collecting dust.

Taiwan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I'm not sure were they are based but I know off hand in some cases I've waited 3 to 4 weeks for shipping from other countries, plus any hold ups in customs. I've not always received tracking or details when armor has shipped from several makers. I've seen recent posts from them with kits shipping and some spare in hand so cross fingers it appears very soon.

Thanks again to all for the many helpings

We'll be here when you're ready!

Yeah I'm not seeing any real changes that warrant a new FOTK CRL for 9 . I was hoping to find at least one little thing, maybe I still will lol

Since my last post, I've been adding genuine parts to my E-11 and I thought I share the progress here. Scored a M38 scope in Australia! Magazine catch, ejector and ejector retaining screw Magazine catch screw Back cap Bolt and cocking handle Barrel retaining screws Trigger guard Grip Trigger group retaining pin I have the front sight assembly too but I haven't installed it.

Hello Victoria, glad to see you started your build thread here. Regarding posting photos here are two links that you might find helpful: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44598-posting-photos-from-google-photos/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/46368-photo-uploading-help/

Nicely done trooper! Welcome to the rank of Centurion.

Hi Ivan, The first of photos (the ones Q replied to) I agree look good on the top but I agree there's a bit of paint on the gums on the lower middle teeth. (Apologies for the rough photo; I'm on my phone) Let me know if you're still not sure and I can try to clarify. My intention is definitely not to frustrate you - we're just trying to help you look your best! Hope this helps.

With my armor getting closer to completion and the upcoming Tokyo Comic-Con I decided to return to the blaster project. Got a chance to meet up with Brian (Bulldog44) and spent a couple hours cleaning and chemical welding some of the parts together. There was one piece that must have been warped by the Tokyo summer heat but thankfully a backup piece existed. Once more is done I will post up some additional pictures. The black scope in the picture is one of Brian's resin casted ones, the scale and detail of the 3D printed one is clearly not as fine from the plans I used.

Nice work trooper, congratulations and welcome to the Centurion ranks

You can add a little dish washing liquid to the water as it will help the sandpaper glide and reduce clogging.

Gmrhodes13 and Darth147, Thank you. Updated 10-2-2019 Step 10 Masking and Detailing Unfortunately, I got carried away with the build and did not take many of the pictures that I should have. Regardless, the only parts left to be painted should be the tear traps, ear bumps, temples, brow, rear vents, and teeth. I masked off everything except these areas with various width masking tapes. Tamiya produces several different width masking tapes and are available at model supply stores and amazon. Once everything is masked, I sanded all the areas to be painted with 220 grit sandpaper. I was not trying to remove the white gloss, rather to roughen it up. Next, I used my airbrush and shoot the Admiral Grey or medium grey on all the noted areas except the brow. Next, I used a small signature brush to hand paint the black outline of each grey boxed area and the small oval on each ear bump. Next, I applied masking tape over the mouth and tear traps (be careful to not let the masking tape touch the painted teeth or tear traps) then applied the flex-seal to the brow and then carefully removed all the masking tape. There were a few areas that required touch up but overall, I like how everything came out. Step 11 Back all vents and mesh For all the vents except the tube vents I used a breathable black fabric like a spandex. I used super glue to apply the fabric in place. Try to not get the super glue on the fabric that will be seen because it can turn white. Next, back the tube vents with a breathable blue fabric. I got this fabric from JoAnn’s when I built my ROTK. Next, I cut some dark grey plastic window screen to fit the mouth and superglued it in place. I mixed some PC-7 and applied it to the mesh to make sure it stays in place. Step 12 Install inserts I installed the lenses, nose guard, head straps, front support frame and both side (tube) plates. I installed the ear caps and then rear insert inside the rear half. Lastly, I installed the insert inside the top dome and superglued the rear part of the insert to the added plastic support between the rear vents. Step 13 Assembly and finishing I attached the front and rear half’s together then attached the dome. This was the first time I put this helmet on and realized just how useless the head straps were. I will scrap those things and add my own support system. Also, the rear insert forced my face closer to the front of the helmet. I may alter the insert further, but I will not worry about it now. Next, I inspected the neck opening and noticed two areas (red lines) that plastic must be removed from each ear cap before applying the neck opening seal. I removed this plastic with a Dremel then applied the U-shape neck seal. Next, using a ¼” drill bit I drilled the two mounting holes for the Hovi mics and applied the correct Hovi mics. I got my Hovi mics from Etsy and they required assembly. Here is the link to the ones I used: https://www.etsy.com/listing/245863441/star-wars-screen-accurate-11-hovi-mix?ref=yr_purchases Lastly, I test fit the Vocoder then sanded the back side of the Vocoder where it would touch the helmet to remove any flex seal and allow a good surface for super glue. Next, I glued the Vocoder in place. This completed the helmet for the most part. If I do anything further, it will be to install a better support system and fans. Reviewing the Level helmet CRLS, there are a few incorrect details (I struck through the incorrect information) in the CRLs but for the most part they are correct: Helmet ü Traps (trapezoids on dome of helmet) and tears (area beneath the corners of eye lenses) are gray. ü Rear traps and tears have vertical black lines. ü Lenses are flat material, green in color, sufficiently dark enough to obscure the costumer's eyes. ü The “ear” bars are gray or painted gray, with a black outline. They may have between one to four painted black rank stripes. ü Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area. Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out. ü Tube stripes are medium blue, numbering between 9 and 16 per side with the curve bends extending backwards. ü Vocoder (vertically ribbed chin detail) is painted black. ü Aerators/Hovi mix tips (cylinders on either side of the vocoder) are black or painted black. ü (VERTICAL LINES ON) Tears and traps may not be hand painted. ü Tube stripes are recessed, and the recessed section painted blue or backed by blue mesh. ü Frown mesh must be present and be wire screen mesh. It shall be dark metallic or dark grey in color. ü Note: The helmet is accurate in detail and proportion to official references. It should be symmetrical unlike an ANH helmet. ü Many commercially available helmets or those considered disproportionate in size or shape are ineligible. (UNLESS PROPERLY MODIFIED) OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): ü Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. ü Head opening has black trim running all along the edge. ü Brow trim should be positioned 1/4" above the eyes. ü Ear screws must not have a visible slot mark and be flush to the ear. ü Any gap between the ears and helmet will only appear to be a seam, not any bigger. ü Correct 'Hovi mic' aerator tips. ü Chin section has a well defined seam from the angles of the mouth. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): ü Only 12 tube stripes per side are allowed. ü The Tube stripes are completely hollowed out with a blue section underneath. ü Rank bar area on ear must be of the correct RO style and pattern, no ANH style ear bumps allowed. ü Frown wire screen mesh is dark grey in color, and there is nothing behind it that closes off the gaps. ü Vocoder is tubular in nature with a visible gap between the outermost section and the helmet. ü The inside of each tear will be a raised area that is grey, with the black lines being engraved, not painted. ü The frown shall be recessed to the proper depth, unlike standard ANH. Based on the CRLs, this helmet is now Level 3 approvable. Here are the final pics Thanks for the interest.

Next was to increase the painted area on the vocoder.

cool build

Thanks! I should start posting more soon. Work has slowed some because of the cold weather.

Look at you go Nerf Trooper!

I spent some time Thursday morning making up a plate to cover the Husky logo on my armor bin (wanted to get it finished before trooping the premier): It's a piece of 3.25" x 12" white ABS (leftover snap plate material) that I painted black. I then drew up and cut out the design with my vinyl cutter. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.