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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/23/2019 in all areas

  1. *facepalm* I did not initially see this as figure's left arm, thought it was the right initially so my first thought was "was this designed by some dude who has never actually seen the chest of an actual woman?" carry on.
    3 points
  2. Ugly trooper is surfacing in white. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    2 points
  3. Thank you gmrhodes. I must commend you on your ability to search the forums. I don't know how you do it. I never seem to come up with the on the money results you do. With the sniper knee dilemma bothering me I decided to put it down and focus my efforts elsewhere for the moment. I completed my TD. And have assembled my forearms and biceps. They just need a fine tuning to remove the pinch points and remaining wrist side return edge. Sent from my sorrosuub C1 comm link device using Tapatalk
    2 points
  4. Ok I bought my ID badge who's making the replacement plates?
    2 points
  5. Thank you but I already have an Anovos preordered for delivery in 2017, LOL[emoji23][emoji24] 7 days and counting till the end of Q3..............
    2 points
  6. I’ve made a bunch of progress on my TK the last few months and I’m getting to the point where I need to make a costume made for someone who is 5’10” and trim, fit someone who is 6’4” with a bit *ahem* of a gut. Specifically the back and kidney plate. I mocked up the ab plate and the butt and kidney plates with painters tape and got the following photos. measuring, the gap between the ab and kidney plates was roughly 5-5 1/2 inches. This means I’ll have to shim the kidney plate. MoScOut’s WTF build has been helpful and had this great diagram of what constitutes a proper shimming for the kidneys. [EDIT - I removed the incorrect image from this post so that there is NO confusion. The correct image is below. You'll see that the incorrect image cost some additional time in the build process, but even so, it was a great learning device. Still, thought I'd save y'all a headache just in case. ] While this will ultimately be helpful, I’m not sure how best to start on the shimming. 1) Should I connect the back and chest plates in order to properly hang these down in order to gauge the shim off of the completed chest/back rig? 2) should I simply line up the kidney and ab plates and measure from there? Critically 3) how should I go about shimming this? My plan is to make sure I have a flat surface at the ends of the kidney plate and then put an interior cover strip on the kidney plate to secure the shim. Next, mock up the kidney and abs again and use my spare ABS plates to gauge and mark how much shim I need. After that mark and cut the necessary shim. Then mix up a batch of abs paste and get to work (not to over do it, of course), the sand and polish. Are there any any pitfalls I should be aware of? Easy things I’m missing? Is there a proper way to line the ab and kidneys up? thanks in advance for your help.
    1 point
  7. Progress The last two weeks have been hectic, but I've managed to sneak in some build time. Given that I needed to get the shoulder bells set so that I can figure out arm assembly, that's what I set out to do. After sanding the bells down to a nice, muted edge, I did a quick test fitting with painters tape. Then I broke out the ruler, elastic, glue, and clamps. With the bells loose strapped, I grabbed the chest/back plate connections, and measured out the high point of the shoulder. Doing that myself, I wasn't able to snap a photo, so you'll have to trust me that I got the location correct. I over-measured the length of elastic in addition to the 35 mm that Tony suggests on the white elastic. Sewing in the poppers (you can see I suck at sewing), I was marginally pleased with the result. Here it all is. I left 2-4mm of space between white elastic and the bell, and glued and clamped them down. They should be good to go tonight, and hopefully I can get my measurements in for the biceps and the forearms.
    1 point
  8. Sure! the acrylic they use are 2 pieces (the etched part is on the inside, which makes it smooth on the outside, and probably catches the light better)... I tried taking mine apart, but the main electronics board was glued to the acrylic and I didn't want to break it!
    1 point
  9. I took a look at mine again, and it looks like the clear plastic is actually starting to separate (really getting annoyed with the quality of the id holder) If it really does come apart, I might take it apart to see how it's made, maybe attempt to do something with resin (I have some resin casting supplies) If that does happen, @iceknyght do you mind if I use your image to play with or experiment with it? No guarantees it's going to look good though!
    1 point
  10. Whaaaaat!? hardly see anything wrong with them
    1 point
  11. Thought I'd post this up just for fun. I was rummaging around hoping to find the blaster in my profile pic to see if it was the correct type to modify into something for my costume when I found the TD's I made for my kids. It struck me how adorably small they are. Ah- hem, so I thought I'd do a comparison shot with the helmets I built them. Then It became apparent that I didn't get the brackets right on them. [emoji2] Sent from my sorrosuub C1 comm link device using Tapatalk
    1 point
  12. Alright, update time, got suited up for a photo mini-session. On a side note, are there any RO E-11 files around for 3d printing? I've looked around, but couldn't find much, so I'm thinking about printing most of the ANH E-11 and modifying/modeling the RO parts.
    1 point
  13. Ear looks perfect Not to be nagging but you really should
    1 point
  14. It is no problem changing that, it should be desired. It looks worse than it is in the photo.
    1 point
  15. Can never have enough magnets and clamps
    1 point
  16. I sanded the latest filler primer coat to 400 grit and noticed a significant difference in pitting. Success! I laid down a second coat of Filler Primer and it's currently drying. After drying I'll get another 400 grit sand session. On another note... I put in the deposit for a Thorsson set of armor. I should have it in hand in a few weeks! I'm all in. Thorsson's buy-in also includes a helmet! So the one I'm currently working on will either prove to be a success, or test subject for the real deal. Very exciting!
    1 point
  17. Anyone still looking for a Anovos (cheaper than purchasing Anovos direct) TLJ helmet Entertainment Earth has them listed for $224.99 with free US shipping *Note* these are a pre order expected delivery October. https://www.entertainmentearth.com/product/star-wars-the-last-jedi-first-order-stormtrooper-helmet-prop-replica/nv01171122
    1 point
  18. Finally home from the UK and greeted by this. Amazed how light it is. Feels lighter than the TFA standard. What’s more you can actually see through these lenses [emoji1787] I’m guessing the big ‘A’ is doing some back door deals with its GE helmet so it can raise some incremental revenue. Here’s to the ACTUAL pre-orders arriving some time soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  19. THANK YOU! I sell strapping kits when the mood strikes me and they're not cheappp at $100, but if you really wanna set 60+ snaps by hand and sew in the shoulder snaps by hand, good luck and have fun I tell people! hahaha I do double snaps at any important body connections and single snaps on the arms, but that's just me. I integrated the little Centurion elastic hold down into the back of my elastic shoulder straps and it works great and they never shift or get lost. Only other suggestion would be to move the male snaps in the chest up a bit to the bottom of the "pec" and use a slightly longer set of straps than the rest of your body connections. The reason I do this is it allows the ab to slide up and under the chest more, which gives you more range of motion when bending forward. Food for thought. I like strapping haha
    1 point
  20. Thanks. Sigh. Oh well. Since I’m already shimming it, it’s just a little more paste and e6000. Appreciate you pointing that out and letting me know before I started sanding. At least the additional bottom shim isn’t going to be load bearing.
    1 point
  21. Thank you very much!! It's a great honor for me! I have to thank @ukswrath for the perfect guide of the anovos build and @lorddavids for past suggestions! Next step: the space pack
    1 point
  22. That is interesting. If my wife knew she would shoot me for not catching that lol
    1 point
  23. I feel a dark web sales page in the works lol JK
    1 point
  24. I have been doing these videos for some time and have finally gotten around to post them, i still have more and i should have them done very soon. So if you have a few hours and want to know how i put together a TK from scratch i would go to check it out. I have been helping my garrison with there TK build so i have done alot of TK's, a couple of clones, biker scouts and TFA. The TK's are closer to my heart and they are much easier to build, I currently have one ANH centurion and one deathtrooper centurion and have helped four of my TK brothers get EIB and two get centurion. I try to build to the highest level from the start and i find it is only a little bit more and it is easier this way. I also fit the kits to the size of the wearer so it looks good on them. Anyways i hope this helps somebody to build theirs, so with the Motto troopers helping troopers, long live the Empire! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeDunMes3e0wQn8_ns-ma4g
    1 point
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