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Recent Test Castings- Some parts still coming out of the molds a bit rough looking. Grip came out the best so far. End cap had some bubble issues. Bolt is good but wish I molded it so the cocking handle holes were more sunken. They will need to be drilled out. Hope for more to come later this week (folding stock parts) Grip- Grip with Trigger assembly- Bolt, Magazine Housing and magazine Front nozzle section and end cap

TK20187 from the Thylacine Outpost in Hobart, Tasmania , Australia reporting in and after 12 months of being a TK I now have a second kit to start building. I love the look of the Shock Trooper and I've been the fortunate recipient an unfinished kit that is perfect to build as a Shock Trooper. Looking forward to my second build. Given the kit was already mostly trimmed I'll be using the butt joint and cover strip method for most of the assemble, the thighs being the only exception, which will be overlap. I'll post more pics as the build progresses. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Next step, EIB

From those and so many other photos and other forum posts I can see this is not an area that is absolute. Some members and screen used helmets have grey extended past uncut tooth, with that uncut tooth either cleared or painted over. Others just taper off after the last cut tooth and don't extend that far. The CRL is not specific so it seems to be owners choice and fine as long as some screen used reference can be cited.

Hard to tell, but I believe this is light reflection:

Quite the missed opportunity in the end. If it wasn't for this excess of details on the snout area of the helmet, I think it would be quite good. Removing the two curved tubes would probably be enough to simplify this area and drastically improve the look of the helmet. Personally I find them extremely disgracious, especially since they have quite a negative impact on the silhouette of the helmet.

I was just looking at those. I'm looking at what went wrong but I really don't understand what I did wrong. It's like they're on an angle as they go back. Thanks for the reminder. I'm straightening them out tonight!! Thanks! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Great news. Don't forget to look at those shoulder straps I mentioned a few posts up before pre approval shots

Look what I got!!!!!!!! The final piece of the puzzle has arrived?!!! I have to calm myself down first but after that I will be trying on everything and posting some pics. I think you might be seeing some pre approval pics very soon!!!!!!! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Welcome! I am working on the EIB thing too.

No, I am actually not saying that at all. All plastic will yellow and nothing can stop it. You can restore the white with ArmorWhite, but its not permanent. From time to time you will have to re apply the solution to keep your old armor white. Look at the armor in the Lucasfilm archives. Its all yellow. Look at your old computer from back in the day... its yellow. That's why all computers are BLACK now, lol... All ABS plastic turns yellow over time. Does not matter if its in the sun or not, it will still yellow. The sun and heat of any kind will quicken the yellowing however. Sooooo if you troop alot then your armor will turn yellow faster. Warm parts of your body will also cause the armor to turn yellow. A UV additive can be added to the plastic to fight off yellowing, but it doubles the cost pf the plastic. So the armor prices would be much higher as a result. PVC or Kydex would be a better plastic for armor. Kydex is what Lucasfilm used for the SE armor. Its still white. Kydex pricing is insane however... PVC is not glossy nor is Kydex... The struggle continues.....

Looking forward to the progress

As soon as I get my boots my friend! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Very nice, I haven't had an OT blaster build for a while, I may foresee one of these in my future

Watching with great interest!

I am very excited with trigger housing and assembly bro! Are you casting the bolt with separated parts? Sent from my LYA-L29 using Tapatalk

Nice work dude! Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Congrats! Build looks good!!

Congrats!! And welcome!

I wear my HWT most of the time. Only on occasion have I dirtied it up. I also used a charcoal dust to dirty the armor. Most of the time I usually just go as is and can switch back and forth. I'm a larger trooper so I like the HWT for me, just looks better on me. I usually do the classic TK if I'm doing an inside troop where space is limited. It difficult walking around with all the extras on.

Thank you so much, I worked on this so long and so late that my mind was going places - bad places, as in I really wrecked something. But this sounds promising. If the color difference is too noticeable, I'm sure I can take your advice and paint.

I believe Erick is waiting on boots

Nice work, the longer you can leave it to dry the better. I did find the Dremel sanding attachment was fine at low speeds but will burn and melt if too fast. I tried to use the finest sandpaper I could so as not to leave too deep scratches, wet and dry, use soapy water as it helps to stop the paper clogging. I went with 240 grit then 400, 600, 1200, and final ultrafine, after that tried compound polish by hand. Some ABS paste can have tiny air bubbles and you may need to fill but see how it goes. You can also end up with a different color too, had this happen with different abs paste and I had to eye match some paint and air brush the seam and feather it outwards, gave it another polish afterwards. I'm sure you will do fine, sounds like you have things well in hand

I fixed them! Thanks for the heads up! Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Nice work, keep it up

Is it a working version? I have a working one that’s great fun. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep it civil please gentlemen.

Looking good

Coming along nicely Mark

I look at this and it makes me want to sing "Rocket Man" lol

I suppose this isn't really a spoiler to the show, so... The overwhelming number of suits worn were Anovos, with a few RS, RT-MOD, ATA, AP, and others mixed in. Not all were ANH-S and there was one EARLY GF kit, but I don't believe there were technically any FX. Some 501st extras were very likely cast because they had worked with LFL on other projects previously, not for the quality, accuracy, or fit of their armor - we had some Centurions and some who probably wouldn't pass approval if they tried to submit again. LFL chose. I'm very confident we will be visible in our scene, but obviously unsure if we will be close enough/in focus enough for anyone here to tell the difference in armor or blasters, let alone the average fan. There is also some info we CAN'T share that will make the variation in armor make a little more sense once the show is out. Until then, it's all kinda moot. I doubt there will be anything that warrants a change to any existing CRL or creation of a new one. The studio suits are the same "Anthology"-style OT TK suits we've seen and I'm sure will continue to see in any modern depictions from that era... Also, a friendly reminder to everyone posting in here - there is stuff we can share, and stuff we shouldn't/can't. Be careful when asking or answering questions! The Mouse has large ears.

Female stormtroopers official canon thanks to 501st?

I was told there is some info in the FISD FB group about who some of the members where.

I have one of these too, and yours is in great condition. Did you get the box and the sling with it too? There are so many differences between the MGC and the Sterling L2A3, but the one that surprised me the most is the difference of size between the Outside Diameters of the barrels.

If anybody was meant to have that MGC Sterling it's you Chris! This will be the beginning of another amazing blaster kit, and the whole entire community will benefit from that project!