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I highly suggest buying a headlight restoration kit. 3M makes one that I use on all my armors. It works fantastic on ABS and since it's designed to be used with a power drill it spares your body a workout. Basically you toss out the heaviest grit sanding pad as it's designed to really chew into the plastic. Take the second finest grit pad with water and polish the area smooth. Afterwards use the finest grit sandpaper to prep it for the polishing pad and compound. Finally hit the area with the polishing pad then lastly the buffing pad and polishing compound. If done correctly the area will closely resemble the rest of the armor. Amazon sells them if you're interested https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2ROQ0G2E40F8J&keywords=3m+headlight+restoration+kit&qid=1559675914&s=gateway&sprefix=3m+%2Caps%2C198&sr=8-3

Thanks! Actually, it wasn't that hard - maybe 2 hours, tops! (And I've never done this before, but all the work I've done with wood and plastic helped me a great deal) For the trigger, I bought a small chunk of aluminium the thickness of the trigger, traced around it and made efficient cuts with a hacksaw to slice the metal away from the shape. Then I went in with a rough and smooth file (both with curved/flat sides) to finish off the shaping, and then went over it with some fine emery paper. For the trigger guard - that was a strip of aluminium that I bent in my vice - I laid the strip on the resin trigger guard and then drew a line where the aluminium strip deviated from the guard - I then put the aluminium strip in the vice, bent it a little, laid it back on top of the resin guard and then bent it more, or drew a new line where the aluminium and resin didn't line up - I did take this extra-careful because I knew I'd never be able to bend anything back on itself if I went too far. For the selector switch, I traced the resin one, cut it with a hacksaw and rounded off the ends with files - for the knurling, I put the end in my vice between two course files and tightened the vice until I couldn't tighten it any more = boom! real knurling! For the body of the selector switch - that's a piece of aluminium tubing I cut to the right height and then cut a 2mm slot in to slide the switch lever in, then I glued a washer to the bottom and packed out the rest of everything with plumbers resin (one of those two-part resin putties that has aluminium in it) For the sight - I just took the offcuts from the stock screws in your kit, and just filed them following the blueprints in the document you guys put together - the pair of digital calipers I use for my 3D printing came in super-handy! Thanks again though - I hated metalwork as a kid...but then again, they never let me build Star Wars blasters or nothing... ;)

OK folks, As mentioned previously, due to the fact that the CRLs are being updated we will be replacing the models as well to reflect the new changes as each category is completed. In order to clarify some of the requirements, we will be adding additional photos (side views, etc.) to the existing front/back images. Please note that it may take some time to get these photos posted on the 501st site. Just changing the text is quite a job, so thanks for bearing with us. Below are the Troopers who will be the new models for the first round (except ROTJ). They have gone above and beyond with their builds, and their armor expresses their "esprit de corps". On behalf of the entire Staff, I would like to congratulate all 3! 1. ANH Stunt- Wayne Winfield, TK 32945 "Waynocerous" (Centurion) from the UK Garrison 2. ANH Hero- Eric Ho, TK 77520 "Hoda" (Centurion) from the Star Garrison 3. ESB- Arthur Wong, TK 39093 "giskard8" (Centurion) from the Hong Kong Garrison 4. ROTJ- To be announced (awaiting photos).

Like Glen says, you won't get any shine from using sandpaper alone, even when wet sanding. You need to use polish and scratch remover compounds for that. Here's an example of something I did a little while back. From left to right: - Raw Gloss clearcoat. - Wetsanded down to 2000 grit. - Buffed with polish and scratch remover.

Generally once sanded you need to use a cutting compound, it's a lot rougher than normal polish and will help to bring back the shine. Also try ultra fine sandpaper 2000 grit, it will then need less work to bring back the shine and if you are using wet and dry sandpaper make sure you are using water and a few drops of dish liquid in it, will help the paper to glide easier and not clog as fast.

After 8 phone calls with the bank trying to fix their mistake, i needed this. 1/8" brown height

I don’t know what I have it set at to be honest. I did donate last year, I think this year too. Did we have it? I usually donate to the forums I’m active in so if I might be confused with one of those. I just know I’ve given money and countless hours of my life reading thousands of posts about brow height. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This list is for Original Trilogy (OT) builds. ANH, ESB and ROTJ) For those who are about to embark on a TK build, in addition to the kit itself and the supplies you will need** to do that we are often asked about other items to complete the ensemble and get approved. These are known as "soft parts", and include the holster, under suit, boots, gloves, neck seal and canvas belt. Be aware that some armorers may include one or more of these items with their kit, but some do not. Also be aware that just because the seller includes them it does not always mean that they are the correct type/style and are eligible for approval (especially at higher levels). When in doubt, always ask your armorer which items are part of the package or feel free to ask here if you have doubts/questions. We are here to help! If there is a particular soft part you need, below is a list of "tried and true" vendors who have an excellent reputation, as well as suggestions for where to get other pieces or even make your own! NOTE: If you are a vendor and would like to add your sales thread here or you have a tutorial on how to make your own please PM me before posting here. **https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/page/11/ White Canvas Belt: NOTE: not all belts are created equal! The belts used in the films were firm and sturdy with no creasing or sagging. Vendor- Rob Kittel https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/stormtrooper-sandtrooper-white-canvas-belt Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/665-howto-a-guide-to-making-a-canvas-bel Neck Seal: Vendor: Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/21385-darmans-neck-seals/ Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/ Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/headgear-neck-seals/stormtrooper-neck-seal Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/34548-10-diy-neck-seal-v1/ Holster: NOTE: Holster straps differ for various costumes. Please see the CRL for your particular style here: http://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL Vendor- Darman https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16744-leather-e-11-holsters-35/ Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/costuming-accessories/ammo-pouches/stormtrooper-genuine-leather-blaster-holster Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23643-making-a-holster-for-anh-stunt/ Boots: Vendor: Keep Trooping https://keeptrooping.com/product/421-classic-white/ NOTE: Imperial boots are 100% approvable at every level, but they only open once a month for orders. They can run a bit small, so I suggest ordering a half size larger than what you normally wear. Vendor: Crowprops https://crowprops.bigcartel.com/product/jhodpur-tkclassic-short-boots NOTE: Crowprops are 100% approvable at every level. Make your own: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27565-how-i-did-my-boots-tkboots-alternative/ Under Suit: Under suits can be purchased from many sources, and you have the choice of one or two piece types. I have found Amazon to be among the least expensive sources. The easiest thing to do is visit that site and search for it, for instance "Mens compression suit top black long sleeve". Examples: Mens compression suit top black long sleeve- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+top+black+long+sleeve&ref=nb_sb_noss Mens compression suit pants black- https://www.amazon.com/s?k=mens+compression+suit+pants+black&ref=nb_sb_noss Vendor Trooperbay https://trooperbay.com/star-wars-stormtrooper-sandtrooper-black-undersuit NOTE: While some prefer the one-piece type, the two piece tends to be better when you have to... uhhh, let's just say "answer nature's call". IMPORTANT! When ordering an under suit, be aware that many have printed logos, white stitching etc. These can not be visible while wearing your armor. Hand guards (Flexible) Vendor: justjoseph63 - https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35702-fs-flexible-hand-guards-for-centurion-level/ Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/flexible-hand-guards-in-white-black-or-plain Gloves: NOTE: As per the CRL for Basic 501st OT TK approval, gloves must be all black with no visible straps/logos/designs and can be rubber, Nomex, leather or a leather-like material. For Level 2 (Expert Infantry) and Level 3 (Centurion) they must be made of rubber or a rubber-like material. I highly suggest finding ones with a long wrist, which prevents it from sliding out from underneath your forearm armor. Vendor: Trooperbay- https://trooperbay.com/accurate-trooper-black-latex-gloves Vendor: justjoseph63- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49156-fs-rubber-gloves-for-expert-infantrycenturion-level/ eBay is also an alternative. Just search Black Nomex (or leather, rubber etc.) gloves. Be sure when ordering the rubber type from eBay that you are purchasing the heavier duty type and not the disposable kind. Thigh Garter system: Vendor: Pencap510 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29991-thigh-garter-system/ NOTE: These are not a requirement, but they are AWESOME! Pauldrons- (For Heavy Weapons Troopers) Vendor: Soulart https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/40849-geeky-pinks-phantastic-gaskets-and-so-much-more/

I usually start wetsanding before 600. I start adding water around 280-400. We don't really have Novus here in France so I can't tell you exactly what brand I used. But most of this stuff works the same so you should be fine with Novus. Also, be sure to get some cotton swabs or cotton cloth along with the polishing compounds as you'll need those to apply the polish and gently work the surface. Working with nitrile gloves is also a good idea

These micro abrasion pads work well. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I would like to. Now that the helmet and shins are done I'd like to start taking this costume out more.

There really wasn't a list of them, James, so I created a thread just now that may help: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47307-list-of-soft-parts-for-your-build/

WOW! This must have taken a while and some serious efforts to bring these up. Very nice. That selector lever and the front sight pin are stunning.

Update here I got higher grit sandpaper, 800, 1000, 1500. I tested it on the test piece and it felt even smoother but, still no shiny. Think I need to use a tool to add that shine. If anyone could help me understand what I need to do for that I would appreciate it. I have also put some work into the shins, I did a hot water bath for the left shin and it worked perfectly. Probably the best outcome I have experienced so far this build. I might do it for the right but, I have not decided yet. I have also finally added paint the buttons on the ab piece, they are looking good! -I have trimmed down the cod piece a bit so I should not experience the rubbing anymore on the thighs -I gave the back piece a hot water bath for the straps on the shoulders. It helped but, it did not extend it far enough. I am thinking I need to attempt it again and see if I can achieve a little more length on it. -Doing this should help align the ab piece with the kidney cover. -The last bit of gluing that needs to be done is the back cover strips for the shins. I am so excited that I have made a lot of progress, I know there will be a lot of tweaking that I need to do to achieve a better looking suit.

Thanks Darren. I think that photo is my absolute favourite ever. Like you say it always raises a smile with everyone who sees it (even people that don’t like Star Wars!!!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great photo Brian and welcome back to the boards.

Scotland’s finest! Great to see you here Brian! That ‘Mini Me’ pic always raises a smile. Love it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Always up to something creative it seems. Nice work on the shins! You're bringing this kit to Supercon, right?

Good point. I guess I could use the magnets to make sure it is always aligned the same and velcro to keep it secure.

Shoulder bridges are glued at the front, ideally 1 large tab and 4 to 5 small ridges. On the back they float free but are held down with elastic. A few pics in the following threads may help https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39359-placement-of-shoulder-straps/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27985-anh-stunt-shoulder-bridges/

Glued on the front, on the back they are flaoting but you can use velcro so they stay in place.

Looking sharp trooper, congrats on your approval

The really, really , really frustrating thing is that the Kylo helmet, FOTK helmet and FOTK armor are Anovos and it is rumored if you order at the park they guarantee delivery in 6-8 weeks. This tells me that all of our outstanding orders either went to or are going to Disney first. By the timeline my suspicion is that the "Container" that was arriving in March with all our stuff then magically disappeared actually went to Disney also.

So my plan is to go back the weekend of July 4th. IF I do contact me before then. Maybe I can get a group order going and ship everything to you guys in one box. Just a thought

I did alot of crowd-control with the riot-Trooper set up but sadly no photos of the first or third day and only a few the second day buuut it was a blast! Using the sheild for high-fives worked out just great. And some photostand-duty with my other set-up. TK on the left is my son, approved youngling. Some cool lights in the arena.

I paid $75 including shipping. You thinking about getting some?

Attaching the cover strips and knee plate. After so bondo and sanding. And finally after paint and some weathering here is a few comparison shots. Left is the old, right is new. Its not perfect but that side view makes all the difference for me. And lastly testing them out. Sorry I dont have any full body pictures yet, it will be a few weeks before I can take some. In the end I am so very happy with them! I kind of rushed it on a few parts but I think they turned out great.

Ditch the elastic for nylon webbing and make sure the bells are right on the white shoulder strap

Eat your heart out.

Haha! I totally understand. I hated this part, and I've sewn my fair share of costumes over the years. Those snaps were tedious! All right, I've got momentum on this build, so let's keep it going now, shall we? I was able to successfully reshape my kidney via the hot water method! And it now fits even better, so, yay! Now I have to wait for the elastics to dry out before I reassemble everything again. I only removed half of the split rivets- the ones on the kidney side. I did a little bit of reshaping the ab as well since I had the boiling water out. I had left the elastics/split rivets installed on that side, and I reshaped a bit of that. While I wait for things to dry, there are always other things to work on, right? But, as with sizing down the plastic, you'll end up with some wrinkling along the returns. No worries for me, though. Using my wood jiggy-thing and heat gun, I was able to iron out those bumps with ease. Before bumpy and smoothed after ironing: Other side of the kidney, before and after: Aaaand since I was heating things up, I remembered that I had trimmed down the butt plate a tad. This left my butt plate looking a little... er... flat around the edges. I wanted to get those returns back to plump my posterior armor parts (not like I need the help, haha...). So I pulled out my heat sealing iron and got to work. I tested it out on a piece of scrap ABS first, just to make sure I wouldn't screw things up. Once I felt comfortable with the process, I took my butt plate, held my breath, and... Taaa daaaa! New returns on the edges of my butt plate. This was much easier than I expected it to be. Once I get my thighs trimmed down to fit me, I will absolutely be rebuilding the returns on those as well. ***Edit*** I forgot to include the awesome tutorial (from Pandatrooper) that shows exactly how to create the new return edge using a heat sealing iron.