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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/16/2018 in Posts
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Good for you, Patrick. ;-) Moving it forward by approx 10mm should do the trick. If it helps, the existing holes in your scope rail can simply be filled with green stuff, sanded and then painted at the end. (I had to do the same). ;-)3 points
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Been a while since my last update, but here's the latest pics of the in progress Vader helmet sculpt. To rehash, although this is meant for the Kid Vader suit, this helmet can also fit an adult head as it's not 1:1 scale but a bit smaller; still enough to get my head into it... This is the third iteration of the mask, so in these pics it has only been roughed in - the details and smoothing are still to be done. The helmet is a little more advanced, it's further along in the smoothing stage. The tusk tubes are just placeholders; they help me to determine the cheek shaping and angles, but the proper tubes will be added in much later. The sculpt will then be cast so that I can make fibre resin helmets from it - this is the ANH version but I'm planning to then make ESB and ROTJ versions, as well as chest and shin armour; for a kid size say age 10 upwards. I'll then hopefully continue to scale up the molds as needed. I'm also talking with one of the guys in my Garrison to be able to vacuum-form these on his machine.2 points
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Production values all around are superb. This is easily network quality material and it all falls to place - yes the effects (which were amazing) are there but so too is the direction, music, camera work, editing, You guys should be justifiably proud of this achievement. Nice 501st on the detonator! I'm sure I missed a few other Easter eggs. The story was well written too. I've done some interesting things in my old FX kit, but the athletics in the suits were cool to see as well. Not sure I'd do that in my current armor ;-) The closing credits were - beyond good - they were exceptional. I've seen a lot of fan films, but nothing this good. I hope you received a lot of rewards/recognition.2 points
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Hey Roberto You will need to trim the smaller ab button plate, it should be flush with no edge, see ref pic and I would try to touch up the paint some and make them more circular - good luck2 points
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Hi Phil, the electronics will go into the Hengstler counter. I will put charging electronics behind the end cap, which would interfere with the spring of a real sterling. If you want to use the LED strip for the barrel light effect you would need to replace the inner barrel with a clear acrylic tube. For more info regarding the electronics search for “BlastFX” on Facebook. There’s also a BlastFX builders group (also on Facebook). Hope that helps, Patrick1 point
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Thanks! The end cap "slope" and the recess came from Tino's Lucky#Eleven build (see update #09). I also saw it on original sterling end cap pictures. Note that I initially overdid it and it still needs to be sanded down. Here it is with the excess removed: 20181216_2143321 point
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Nice work, Patrick. Nicely done with the mag housing to conceal the battery. :-) Just out of interest, what’s your approach with the green stuff on the rear end cap? I can see that you’ve built up a little slope with green stuff, as apposed to the traditional squared look; Keep up the good work. :-)1 point
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As Daniel says, as long as they don’t go past the longest part of the armour, it should be fine. Most builds, (including my own and many other Centurion builds), go to the longest parts - it’s only after a so long using these reference pics that you see how the actual armour was put together. RS make great suits, no doubt, and are probably taking the more common approach to cover strips. As the ref pics show in the RS gallery, the original, screen used suit cuts off a little sooner on certain armour parts. :-)1 point
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Well we aren’t the only ones frustrated. I was just a Disneyland Launch Bay yesterday and was talking with one of the supervisors and they brought up a Anovos. They said that when they were selling the Anovos helmets and costumes they got so many angry customers from late or no delivery they pulled the plug. So sounds like the Mouse isn’t too happy with them either.1 point
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Nice work. :-) On the coverstrips, just bear in mind that they don’t always run to the longest part of the two armour sections. As below on this screen used suit (owned by RS), the bicep coverstrips run to the inner/shorter part of the bicep. If you haven’t already, the RS photos in the FISD gallery are an exceptional reference, especially when building an RS kit. Best wishes Dan :-)1 point
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Thanks Daniel I'm currently at work but here is the one for the mic tips and vocorder. The rest I can get once I'm home and I'll double check the left ab to kidney connections. Sent from my 5054N using Tapatalk1 point
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Word of advice, glue some black felt or similar to the inside of the cut out section (rim inward) before it scratches the crap out of your back plate .1 point
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That was amazing, congratulations to all those involved, I loved it.1 point
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Mmhmm, sure Frank, sure. Tbh I wish my kit came with a thin lens - what my ATA came with is so thick I can barely bend it, and it refuses to be heat formed. Perhaps that's welding shield material? It's very nice quality, just a pain to work with. Why shanksh Rat! I'm very, very motivated to finish this build and get to serving the Empire.1 point
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Every step counts in the end - you’ll be a Stormtrooper before you know it1 point
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You don’t get many costumes that fit straight outta the box but this one requires no tailoring at all. I’m very happy with my purchase, this is spot on accurate. I asked my neighbor to look at it and he said it looks accurate as far as he can tell, he’s blind but a great guy and I trust his opinion. Very pleased with my purchase. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Here are a couple of pics of a kit I build last year. As it shows, I'm quite fond of wear and tear. The E-11 will however be much more subtle.1 point
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Good armor !! Goodluck on that application !1 point
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Also. For some of the FM parts that I already assembled, I may disassemble them just to show you how they go together.1 point
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Fully finished and painted scope rails can be ordered as upgrade option (item #35) in the completion sets. If you only need the rail, drop me a PM and we will find a way. Please note, these rails are specifically designed for resin builds. The rear end goes straight into the rear sight and requires a drilled hole for mounting it.1 point
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And here it is fellas: Snuck a little 501 reference in there1 point