Leaderboard

Pan head screws acquired! On the way to centurion!

Just submited for EIB! I did have on comment on the spacing on my right side ab and kidney. I fixed this by adding additional glue to the elastic, shortening the stretch and making my belt tighter.

Excellent work Greg, looking awesome. As for the weathering colors, that's been up for debate forever. The canon film location is a dirty orange/tan color however. Black and white or low quality, low light canon photos don't help in determining the correct colors, not to mention those could change between troopers. This is probably the reason why the placement of the dirt and other details is what's judged at the SWAT level, not necessarily the color.

This weekend’s progress. I have been putting off the helmet. I had to do some painting on it, and trying to do that with young children in the house is difficult to say the least. Well, this last weekend the wife took the kids to see grandpa and grandma, so daddy had time to build. Tube stripes. All the painting will be done by hand. Here, I am measuring out the spacing for the stripes. First coat. Yuck, I hate doing these things. Oh, I also did the vocoder. I forgot to mention that I composited original photographs over photographs of my helmet in Photoshop to place the stripes and vocoder details. Had to place and drill the holes for the Hovi mics . The HOVI mics in the reference picture do not seem to match where the holes are marked for the AP helmet. So, I had to adjust. I also painted the tips of the Hovi mics white as per the reference picture. Taped off an area for the crack/paint run on the top of the helmet. The colour was supposed to match HDPE green plastic colour of the original helmets. But this is a bit dark, I will have to tone it down with some white paint. I also cut some tubing at some funny angle to help redirect the Hovi mics . It is difficult to get them to point in the right direction. Also final trimmed and sanded the legs and arms. I also added all the snap bases. For sanding, I use 220 grit, 320 grit, 400 grit, and 600 grit. All the return edges were sanded this way for comfort... especially in the upper thigh area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some minor upgrades— Moved the shoulder straps down. Now 5.5 small bumps on the chest plate. Side view of the chest/back connection. Not pictured is the corrected floating snap. Trimmed the back at the shoulder and neck by about 5mm. Is this acceptable? Very minimal overlap at the sides (but honestly the kit doesn’t seem to be molded for zero overlap). Or should I trim more for less gap? Thanks bunches! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha, guess not everyone watched the SW bonus DVDs, apparently Carrie Fisher had to use gaffer tape to hold down some stuff. I've never heard the term 'gaffer tape' used before, until she mentioned it in the bonus content; that word is now permanently ingrained in my mind as associated to holding up princess privates. http://boards.theforce.net/threads/carrie-fisher-gaffer-tape.50016468/

Haha I was more thinking in the line of these fin gents that secured her They ran out of white here though ans she`s maaaad about it

Shoulder bridges glued and working on some strapping. Going for the double snap method. Should be finishing up soon! Back to NJ for the work week, hopefully get finished up this coming weekend. Debut at superCon would be sweet, but I don’t wanna rush it now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Brian, thanks. Having a basement for a workshop was a mandate to my wife when we bought our house. Her mandate for me in the next house is a detached workshop so all the fumes from paint and fiberglass do not make the house smell like a body shop. Update, I am back from my work trip. Man, being away for a week has killed me but I am back and today I tied up some loose strings in preparation for paint tomorrow. First, I reworked all my air compressor lines and re-dehydrated the desiccant for the filter. I replaced the inline disposable filter and got some new hose. All that sorted out, I hung two more hard mounted wire hanging contraptions to hold the armor being painted. I also added the last cheap A/C filter to paint booth so it now has 4 20 x 25 A/C filters. The negative pressure inside the booth is better managed now and less likely to collapse the drop cloth walls. So here is how the booth looks now. I have staged the primer for mixing. The paint and clear coat are also ready to go as well. These are the paint guns we will be using. So the plan is to start painting at 08:00 tomorrow. I will have the assistance of a fellow Mandalorian Merc who has more experience in painting automobiles than I do. He will do most of the painting and I will mix the paint and mostly stay on the outside of the booth helping when needed. We hope to get two or three layers of primer on the armor. This will depend on how the first coat goes. After the first coat we will deal with any issues with the armor to ensure a smooth surface. For this I have staged a ton of sand paper ranging from 100 grit through 2000 grit. After we get all the armor primed, we will apply two or three coats of the white base coat. After another inspection and addressing any issues we will apply two clear coats. At that point we will remove any of the parts that get airbrush color added. Then we will spray two more clear coats on the remaining armor. I will let all the armor cure for 24 hours then being to mask the parts that need airbrushing. These parts will be the helmet, thermal detonator, abdominal, and back plate sides. I have looked over the “Rogue One Paint Guide” here on FISD and went a step further, I made some graphics to better outline what needs to be painted and what colors to use. So basically I will be using three colors; French Blue, Black, and Medium Grey. For this I will be using flat acrylic opaque airbrush paints. The French Blue and Black are US Art Supply “airbrush ready” (meaning they do not need to be thinned) and the Medium Grey is a Tamiya acrylic that will need to be thinned for the airbrush. Once I have masked the parts, I will airbrush them and then remove the masking. Then these parts will get two more coats of clear coat round them at a total of four coats just like the other parts. The airbrush I will be using is an Aztek A7778 kit that has 9 interchangeable tips. While these last four parts are curing (for 24 hours) I will apply the flex seal white rubber paint to the inside of the other parts. These last four parts will get the flex seal after the 24 hours curing. After another 24 hours to cure the flex seal, then I will add all the Velcro and straps, and the lenses and vent covers in the helmet and lastly do a test fit. Hopefully, I will be updating this thread throughout with what I experience and more pictures. And that is the update, thanks for the interest.

Land o' legs -- Part I I've set the arm assemblies aside for now till I can get some experienced eyeballs on them to take a look at my sizing. I think I have both the forearms and biceps just about right, but I definitely want some second opinions before I start slathering glue and cover strips on those. I'm eager to finish those assemblies, but there's plenty more to do with this build so I'm moving on to the legs for now. With A.M. armor, making the cuts on half of the legs is waymo easier than other armor not as generously sized. There's lots of extra plastic here, and a quick overlap and test shows that I won't need shims at all on the backs no matter how I cut the fronts. With that in mind I can, without fear, go ahead and cut the fronts to 10mm on each side as the base for the front 20mm cover strips before doing the actual sizing of the entire part. Unless you're a big trooper and need all that extra plastic, trimming the fronts of A.M. legs is important for the fitting process: As with the arms in the earlier section, there's just too much plastic to overlap during the sizing process to get an accurate fitting. Starting with the shins, I removed all of the lower return edge. Don't need any down there over my boots. I found that I couldn't clamp the part to my assembly table as I did the forearms because of the shin's ridged top and overall shape. Instead, I clamped a flexible metal straightedge directly to the shin itself to make my scoring cuts. By the way, you'll probably use spring clamps for something like this, but since I have a woodworking shop I have boatloads of these small bar clamps and prefer them for any flat surface due to their unmatched strength -- clamp up a straightedge with these and it just isn't going to move. If you use bar clamps for any part of your build, mind the free ends or you'll put your eye out, kid. The process of making all four cuts, two per leg remember because I'm only doing the fronts here, went smoothly. I'm still taking my time and being careful, but I'm not nearly as terrified as I was making those first cuts on the arms and biceps. As with the arms/biceps, I lightly sanded the cut edge to remove high spots and rough edges. Let's tape up the shins and see how they look. Yeah, that's the ticket. Nice and flush all down the line. There's still a lot of extra plastic on the backs, but I'll get that once I've marked the backs for fitting. Here's the thing, though: I can't do that by myself. I have no idea how you folks who did these without help managed it -- without being able to see the entire back of my shins as I fit them, I simply can't trust my guesswork at getting them marked accurately. Unfortunately, Mrs. Stormtrooper is out of town so her assistance isn't available. I thought about calling the retired lady next door to ask for a bit of help, but stopped when I imagined the conversation. ME: "Hi, Marion... Hey, have you got a few minutes to help me out with something?" NEIGHBOR: "Sure A.J. What do you need?" ME: "Well, I need you to come over and hold my legs for me while I get out a bunch of tape. Give me a couple minutes, though, because I have to put on some tight black leggings first." NEIGHBOR: *click* Yeah, that won't work. I'll wait till Mrs. Stormtrooper comes home or till I can get a Garrison member to help out. OK, I'll move on to the thighs. (Ha! Imagine replacing "legs" with "thighs" in that hypothetical phone call above.) As with the shins, there's far more plastic on these than I'll need, so I can safely cut those fronts to the required 10mm per side and still have plenty of overlap in back for fitting purposes. First, though, I want to trim the return edges. After all the reading I've done here, I've decided I don't want any return edges at the thigh tops for comfort and mobility. Plus, the A.M. legs are large and I'm sure I'll need to trim a bit off the tops anyway, so before fitting they have to go. There's a good bit there so I first used my Lexan scissors to cut most of it off. Then I went over to my drill press -- still fitted with that Microplane rotary shaper you saw in the arms section -- and ground it off the rest of the way. I also removed some of the return edge on the lower raised ridge. I didn't take all of that off, however, and instead trimmed it so it was at the same level as the inner sides of thighs, which I confirmed by laying a straightedge across the bottoms. My main purpose for doing this at this stage is so I didn't have extra material pressing into my legs during the fitting process and adversely altering initial fitting. Secondarily, the inner surface of the plastic will ride and bump on my legs a lot while moving, and I didn't want large returns on the raised ridge digging into my knees. When the legs are complete and I can put the armor on, I may elect to take a bit more of that return off the lower ridges, but for now making those edges flush with the inner surface of the thighs should be enough. With the return edges trimmed and sanded smooth, I cut the fronts to the 10mm-per-side measurement and taped them up. Both came out just fine. Again, though, I have to stop until I get some help with the backs as far as fitting and marking. With that in mind, this will be the last of the leg stuff for a while. Still loads of other things to do -- trim and fit my chest, ab, back, kidney, butt... "Hi, Marion, this is A.J. next door. Yeah, if you have a couple minutes could come over and help me trim and fit my butt?" Uh, no. I think I can handle these without help. A.J.

You should be fine just ripping the elastic out even if it’s CA glue, on my first suit I had to shorten my shoulder straps and did just that it’s faster and easier than removing and re-sew the snap

DOH!! Cheers bud. :-)

Yes! you can cut the back out of the calf, if you do this I would also do it on the thigh area. Take a look at the screen references, and some of the approved kits here, to see what exactly I am talking about.

No worries mate. I’m guessing there’s a popper roughly where the red circle is. Depending on how it’s attached, you could try moving it to (roughly) where the green circle is. This would pull them up towards the shoulder bridges and reduce the gaps. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No harm done! Its hard to see things from just pictures unless I gave you just the right angle to see it from. Darn old jedi and there certain point of view

Good insight. Guess we will have to wait and see what happens. Regardless, hope we have a new trooper soon

Hey bud. Well done for getting to this point. I’ve been following your thread and you’ve done really well. :-) Just to add to the other bits raised, I’d just throw in the calves. Personally, I’d try to close those gaps at the top. Also, not sure if it’s the lighting or if the backs are dented? Have fun at that first troop. [emoji1303] Best of luck with your application. :-) Dan

On set or even after. Who knows. I'm not entirely sure it would pass upper levels - best to ask a deployment officer for that. I just think a person has a good argument if it does hit some resistance at basic. You are right in that one occurrence of something does not make it ok or passable. It is just that the RS suit is pretty much the Holy Grail of TK armor research here. I give it more credibility / weight for that. In other words, I wouldn't go trying to fix it at this point. And... I would even, politely, debate it with my GML if it wasn't passed.

ah ok. thanks for that info. I honestly have never seen that. Love this forum as im always able to learn something new, along with passing what I have learned!

Hi Jim Do you have a picture of the other side or that elastic? Basically, where the popper is? You could possibly move the popper, pinch and sew the elastic to make it a little shorter or attempt removing the glue. Depends on what your working with really. :-)

Looks great, Jeff! Good luck on EIB. Should be an easy pass!

lol. Copy that. Yeah, the only part of my armour that I can confidently say will be orange is the pauldron.

And for the record I'm not saying orange is correct lol. They did do a great job duplicating the environmental effects I have to say.

5 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your paint guide is really cool. Just a quick question: Will the airbrushed areas - helmet vents and teeth, TD grey area etc need the clear coat? I just wonder if they would stand out more, or look separate from the rest of the armor if they were not only a different colour, but if their finish was a little different as well. I'm not sure if it's clear in any of the available images, but if their "construction" was originally using separate materials, there may be a visible difference in sheen as well. Again I don't know if someone has had a better view and everything is high gloss - I just think that some of the tears and trap vents might look more "separated" if they were a flat grey. I sort of got the impression that the Black Series helmet had used duller grey too. Any thoughts?

haha... great minds! An alternative to making the kidney smaller is to make yourself bigger in there- and I don't mean by gaining weight! Add padding to the inside top part of the kidney to push it outwards to meet the back plate. I have similar issues with my kits. For me, my back plate wants to go under the kidney, so I added a wedge of foam in the bottom of the back plate to keep things in line.

Cricket beat me to the punch, was just drawing ut basicly the same thing If you have space I would suggest making the kidney come closer to the body and that would also get the lower back closer and "lifting" the corners up a bit as illustrated below and, also raising the back plate just a tad and that would require cutting the back/chest tabs as Cricket showed Also...you could tighten the strapping for the butt plate to get it more flush to the kidney and that will also help common issues with the butt overlapping the kidney when moving around - keep up the great work

Thanks for posting the side shots. Very helpful! Here is a suggestion of how you could trim additional bits off the back and chest where the plates meet. Shortening the areas - especially the left and right shoulder areas on the back plate - should allow you to bring the back plate up and off the kidney. I was told there should be an inch or two of gap between where the back and chest meet at the shoulders. (pic from my RS build) This is just a suggestion, though. Go with what's fitting you best right now. Any gaps will be covered by the shoulder bridges. At any rate, bringing the back plate up in this way could also allow you to bring your chest plate down in the front. This would also help the bottom of the chest from popping out quite so much. I think it might also make your girls a little more comfy in there by adding a little more space in the chest (this can also be accomplished by lengthening the white elastic at the shoulders). Like others mentioned, you can hot water bath those shoulder bridges so they have more of a curve. This will shorten them up as well. I added a piece of metal strip to the shoulder bridges. Not only does this add extra strength to the bridges, but it allows for a really nice bend exactly where you want it to go. From my WTF build... And from my RS build... And some screen reference for ya: I hope you don't think I'm being too nitpicky about things. Trimming down a TK is challenging, and you're making amazing progress so far!

Where? Pinewood Studios? Just kidding. I didn't think to consider that. I looked up Ajim, and yeah, I see what you mean. The sandstones seem to be oxidized a bit. Good to know in helping me decide. I've read that motor oil and sand/dirt was used to weather the armor while in Tunisia. Is there any info out there as to how it was done once back in the studio?

Really great work, excited to see it all come together

If I may, from what I can tell your armor looks great! but...that insignia needs to be bigger, and moved down the shoulder about 2 inches. based on the reference photo you are using. Also that white line around the emblem is throwing me off. that should be red around the edge right? For a Basic approval this should work, hoping that we can get it added to the CRL. but in order to get it to match, IMO, it needs to be bigger and moved. keep up the good work! and keep us posted

Looking much better. For L3 it states, back shall have NO, or minimal overlap of the kidney plate. this will ultimately be up to Tony and Joseph on what they want to except, but for Basic your just fine. The shoulder straps look great, although they may be a tad uneven, but that's just a knit picky thing. I also must agree with @lucnak, your forearms look a bit too long, you may want to take some off the elbow end in order for them to sit without siding under your hand plates. Ideally you will have an even amount of spacing between your hands and forearms, and forearms and biceps. on shorter troopers this is a little bit of a kick to mess with, but in the end will help with the "esthetic" of the trooper. and for your question about the wrist plate, if you add that second strap it should keep in right were it should be. Not sure you need to do anything else to it. Keep up the good work, you will be there before you know it.

Thank you, Dan! Yeah, the weathering is turning into a real conundrum. I'm not on board with most of what I see over at MEPD - I just find it too dark and with too much contrast (and that orange colour does not help one bit). But the final say for PO and SWAT (if I even go there) will be up to MEPD.

Some additional feedback on your outdoor pantsless fit test: The cover strip on the front of your left bicep looks a bit long. Do you think your forearms are too long? They look like they are getting under your handplates. And on your last posted photos: Chest to ab connection looks much better with less angle. Back to kidney overlap is definitely better too. Your shoulder bridges also look better. I think you could give these a hot water bath and add the 1/8" elastic to hold them down so they don't look so "floaty" in the back. Hope that's helpful! You're making great progress!

Hi Jim Looking good. [emoji1303] I’d agree with the others and just add that the shoulder bells could be brought closer to your chest plate. Not sure why but RS always seem to leave the shoulder strapping about an inch too long on both sides when they do commissions. Simply shortening the strapping could help bring those in a bit and reduce the Black gap. A couple of minor tweaks and you’ll be cleared in no time. :-) Dan

I want to say thanks to Joseph and everyone who's helped create this list. In preparation for purchasing said supplies I put the list into a Google spreadsheet. I added columns for received, ordered, cost and location. The columns are filterable so you can weed out the items you've purchased or, if you're going to a store for a few items you can filter down to just those items. (You'll need Google Sheets installed on your phone for mobile use) If anyone is interested this sheet can be found here. It's read only so you'll have to go to File-->Make a Copy to copy it to your google account.

More with the belt while I wait for E6000 to dry on the main body. Ive looked around the centurion forums and decided to remove all return edge from the top and bottom. I also shortened the ends about 12mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Basically everyone already hit on the points I noticed, so I just have a few things for future reference/your knowledge down the road that don't have to deal with approval but with wearing and maintenance of the suit: It looks like the sniper plate is wanting to tuck under the thigh (I've seen this a bunch of times now, and dealt with it myself). Our fix is to tape up a cheap washcloth and tape into the inside of the shin to punch it out just that little bit. In my experience, the RS brackets put a lot of stress on a semi-weak point, and can pull through, come out, or otherwise crack the areas they're connected to. You can preemptively add extra strapping (like with snap plates and Tandy snaps) in those areas, mainly the chest/ab connections, but I'd also do it for the back/kidney connection, too. Good luck!

Thanks and yeah it’s super-awesome just arrived for another session as it happens

Ditto what Luc said. I'm intensely jealous of your work space. Talk about a work perk!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*grabs mic* It's time again, folks, for -- Concerns of the Overthinker! (lights flash) Thank you for joining us. Tonight's topic is Snap Plates, Your Armor, and You. Have any of you folks had any run-ins with the definitely-not-urban-legend warping that can happen with ABS snap plates, as seen in this [recent] nightmare thread? With ATA being among the thicker ABS kits out there I imagine I'll be fine, but I was planning on making most of my snap plates ahead of time and it's positively terrifying to think they could warp my armor like that and I'd have to scrap them all. Despite the words of its proponents, nylon webbing just doesn't seem as secure to me. If it offered a warp-free guarantee I'd set my snaps in it anyway but it just doesn't. SO. Nylon? ABS? Worry more? Thoughts welcome, and thank you all in advance. On a happier note, I've been customizing my armor storage tote. Cart before the horse, my eye. WIP pic below. Those are tiny Imperial cogs, yes. My first neck seal attempt has proven to be an excellent learning experience. The biggest lesson is that you need to build in much more width than you thought you'd need because you're essentially accounting for the outer circumference, not the inner, and when it's this thick it can get pretty tight. However it looks incredible, if I do say so myself, and I will now be pursuing a similar rib style with entirely different and hopefully less nightmarish construction and closure techniques. Let's leave it at that.

After thinking, hmmm, the belt might have something to do with fitment of the ab/kidney I tried with a belt and yup!! I cut my shims to half the size and I think it is pretty spot on I also went to a makerspace in Oslo today along with some other people also building TK's. I prefer working at home on stuff but this was a good opportunity to do a test-fit and also have some fresh eyes. To me it looks like this suit will fit me pretty well right out of the box Will have to do some tapering on the shim here Got some stuff from Mr. Pedigo + some elastic from a UK eBay seller Fixed my sniper knee which needed some trimming Started assembling arms as I was able to borrow some heavy duty magnets from someone at the makerspace

Made my belt today. I filled the inside of the belt with a random material I found at the fabric store. (Can’t remember what it’s called) It’s like half felt and plastic. It’s pretty stiff while still being easy to sew. Unfortunately I was a few inches short so I added a double layer of the white denim in the middle to get the extra length. Then I sewed the denim around the middle of the belt. After that I wrapped it completely around and pinned it in place, before sewing along the black marks. After that I cut the denim to leave about 1/2” extra. I ironed that over so it was easier to sew, then sewed that over itself so there won’t be any frayed edges showing. Lastly I flipped back to the front side and sewed the last edge to the edge I just sewed wrapping it all up nicely. It isn’t perfect but I’m happy with it. Still need to do the Velcro and rivet the ABS front to it. But that will be another day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worked on the TD and as it`s made of resin it`s not much glueing involved, however the left side is solid and makes the hole thing very unbalanced so decided to drill it out as much as possible - yeey for work perks The resin very quickly became hot so I went slower and the fumes and resin debris got me thinking - so I made a safety rig After initial drilling it still felt heavier than I would like so found a larger drill bit and went at it again, better but not perfect. Had planned on drilling a ledge into the tube and ad a plastic disc but had no drill that worket so did this: Traced the thickness of the plastic to the tube (probably not necessary but did it anyways) Used another perk to cut it. go slow or the blade will bow out. Trace the disc, cut, glue Sand and done. Did some sanding of the whole piece and glued it to the back piece, it has a curvature to match the screen used ones, did some tests and by using strong magnets I think it will pull the kidney to meet up with the TD, might sound a bit weird but i will elaborate on this when it comes to attach it (ooh cliffhanger)

I have been busy trying to get this helmet setup. I think i got it, although i dont like the fan noise, but i will live with it. hoping that once i get Troopertalk going it wont be too bad. and i need to get bluetooth headphones and transmitter for the hearing assist, these speaks are ok, but i had headphones in and man what a difference. but the speakers will do for now.

APPROVED!!! TK-21523 reporting in!!!

Drilled a hole in the back of the Hyperfirm E-11 for the D-ring Than inserted one side of the link in and then got the other side in and slide it back There is a slight bend in the back due to the ring pushing this. Is that an issue? I would imagine we would want it as straight as possible.

Sorry if this is a repeat or if you all knew this already. While I don't have experience building costumes, I have been working with chemicals for my job for some time now, including tetrachloroethylene (found in the glue) and I've got experience with respirators. If you are worried about exposure and looking for a respirator, here are my tips. I'd recommend you get a half-mask style one made from silicone instead of plastic. Silicone respirators are a little softer, so it's easier to get a good fit. After wearing it for a little while, plastic will start to hurt your face but silicone is more comfortable. Half-masks are just a lot lighter, especially since you're working looking down at something, so there will be less neck strain, and are much cheaper than full face masks. Plastic will be cheaper than silicone, but in my opinion not worth it. If you wear glasses, you may have some difficulty getting them to work over it, since for some people the mask sits over the part of the nose that their glasses sit. Just play around a little until you get it to work, but don't jam your glasses inside since this will break the seal and defeat the purpose. Since this is to protect against fumes instead of just dust, having a good fit is more important. To test the fit, cover the holes where the cartridge(s) attach and try to inhale. Next, cover the hole where you exhale from and exhale. If you get air coming in or exiting from around the edges on either of these steps it's not fitting properly and you can either adjust the straps or look at a different size. You should do this every time you put it on to make sure you've put it on properly.. If you're really worried about the fit, you can also get a professional to test it and they will either use a spray that you can taste if there's any leak or a computer setup that detects if any particles end up inside the mask from a candle or something. Just google respirator fit testing in your area. Facial hair can interfere with the fit as well. Lastly, the cartridges. For protection from just dust from sanding etc, you only need dust cartridges. The tetrachloroethylene fumes need organic vapour cartridges. Organic cartridges will not work for dust and dust will not work for organics. If you do want to use it for both, you can get combination cartridges that protect from both. Read the instructions that came on your cartridges because that will tell you how long they can be used. Organic vapour cartridges usually work by activated charcoal or something similar, so once the package is unsealed, they're always on (not just when you breathe through them). At work we get around this by putting them in air-tight ziplock bags when we're not using them. If you can smell the glue through it but your respirator is well-fitted, they're not working anymore. Good luck!

I believe Luke's chest simply had straps glued inside and they were glued inside the abdomen too. Maybe there could be a higher level of Centurion that calls for ultimate screen accuracy? A level that demands an accurate strapping system, PP or khaki painted helmets with white top coat. Basically anything seen on screen goes kind of thing. Just a thought