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Hello everyone! Today, I proceeded with the End Cap Clip. As Doopydoos comes with a static resin piece, I opted to mash together two separate sources. I used Suitecase Props T-piece along with Tino's aluminum u-channel from his completion set. Here is the original piece Here is the combo of the two separately sourced pieces. Here are some comparison pictures: I decided I wanted the u-channel a bit shorter so I took out my trusty Cobalt hacksaw blade and took off around 2mm. In my estimation, it now looked more proportional against the T-piece. I also rounded off the edges of the u-channel following SMG references (FISD E-11 Blaster Reference: PDF Document Photo Compendium) Here, I would then, following SMG references as well, imprint knurling patterns using green stuff to the bottom of the T-piece. Following, I would use a curved aluminum piece to lever the T-piece for press functionality. 1 /16 " drill bit used to create hole in aluminum piece and on T-piece. A nail was scavenged to get at its head for insert and keep the aluminum piece in place. Initial attempt using JB Weld was unsuccessful. Used Tino's powerful CA glue did the trick. This aluminum strip styled after SMG references as well. I then proceeded to create the two support holes for the pin. Piloted using 1 / 16 " then to 5 / 64 " for the actual hole size. Since I didn't not have a 5 / 64 " pin, I had to shave it down from the 1 / 8 " solid brass rod I had. I inserted the rod to my drill and held it up against my square file. For anyone attempting this, please use ear protection. I found it necessary to examine the filing process closely therefore, putting myself close to the drill motor. Done! I will proceed to add a bit of E-6000 to keep the pin in place. I had thinned out the pin a tad too much. Also, if I ever have to disassemble, I can heat it and get the pin out. Thanks for checking in once again! Have a terrific day!

This is for the hand painted look. if you seek perfect lines you best get some decals. Items required: Humbrol Paint. Tamiya mask tape. 2b pencil (sharpened to a pin) to mark the ABS. Pen to mark the tape. Steady hands. Mask some parallel lines. Press the tape down firm so bleeding does not occur. (This is when the paint seeps under the tape). Tube stripes Using a spacer for marking out Draw the lines in with a 2b lead pencil. First coat completed but will even out some of the lines with the second coat. Time to remove the masking tape (Tamiya). I started by lightly cutting the paint line with a blade but soon realized i did not need it. Just one bleed area on the first stripe so will clean this later. Happy days.

Well, I didn't get very far in my costuming adventure.. a few days after winning 3rd in a fitness competiton, I wrecked my motorcycle and broke my neck (C1 anterior and posterior for those that know what that means.) No other injuries other than some road rash. I'm back in business and researching again. That little adventure pushed me back 6 months. I didn't get to know many of you. But I'm glad to be back! I did manage to finish the final for becoming a certified personal trainer and yes I passed. Spent my bed ridden life reading and studying to pass it! Lol.

Evening all, I might be a little extra excited about this post. Firstly, I was inspired by another thread (no names, Jesse) to remove and reshape my end cap clip. Neater, rounded edges. Next, the end cap. I marked out the center line and outer perimeter. I couldn’t really find a better tool than the one pictured, however this required quite a steady hand. Essentially, I kept the Dremel static and rotated the end cap, using this Dremel piece like a router. It came out well and the parts are now curing (E-6000 glue). Now, this part required some bravery. I added the LED to the mag clip, then hand drew the “OFF ->”. I very carefully used the Dremel to engrave the letters. I’m surprisingly happy with the end result, which should hopefully show up a little better once painted. Now for a few pics with some of the parts in place. *Note some progress to the Hengstler, and further shaping (thanks, Tino) to the power cylinders. A very rewarding evening’s work. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers Jesse. Slightly modded again since the last pics. ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loving this mod! The rounded edges really make a big difference. And yes, the aluminum U-channels are rough cut and need some fine trimming. Good job, Jesse. You have taken the maximum out of this.

Impressive, as ever, Jesse. Looks superb. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well deserved. Congratulations on all your hard work paying off!

Nice work Dan - Your power cylinders are looking great!

Congratulations Daniel!

Got nothing to add, what has not already been said - except: it really is a pleasure to follow this thread. Great attention to details and posting style.

I hear you, things like that can be really frustrating...but...in the end you will have a fantastic looking armor and I coulden`t agree more, TM`s armor is absolutely Amazing keep it up

Thanks a lot it`s an awesome feeling and here`s hoping that you get the same feeling in the near future

Superb! Well done, Daniel. :-)

Looking good

Great to hear that you are upgrading your Anovos strapping, Andy! There are a few options you can go with... one is the "classic" system, which uses brackets, elastic and nylon webbing, but you can also opt for the snap (or double snap) method. If you choose the classic system, Tony (ukswrath) has an incredible tutorial located here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/ Here is a link to Mr.NoStripes' sales thread for the brackets: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20859-accurate-anh-stormtrooper-strapping-brackets-v-20-now-available/ If you choose the snap method (most of us use this) you can follow his instructions as well for mounting the snaps, and here is a diagram (below) my buddy Jeff (wingnut65) came up with that may help. Please note that he uses the "double snap" system on it. Using two snaps in the areas shown will eliminate any chance of anything falling off during a troop. It costs a bit more in the beginning and takes a bit more time, but the results are well worth it, I assure you. Either way I would invest in a wood burning (soldering) tool. They are less than $20.00, and will make your life MUCH easier. You use it to make holes and seal the ends of the nylon webbing/elastic. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Weller-Electric-15-Piece-Wood-Burning-Kit/3402984

GREAT job on that, Paul! Another hint if I may add one is this: Before painting the blue on, hit the edges with a light coat of white paint and let it dry. This will seal any minute openings on the edges of the tape and prevent any bleed through of the blue, providing crisp. sharp lines. Fantastic work on the whole paint job, by the way, especially the vocoder!

Here's my button based pretty faithfully on the limited screen shots we have. It is my belief that the baton's single connection to the holster is through the same kind of hook on system the FOTK Blasters have to the thigh holsters. I don't know what the name is for those parts, but on my baton it attaches through a snap. So that, the stitching on the edge of the holster, and the shine is probably the only inaccurate things about this build. Hopefully they'll be helpful. EDIT!: Upon further inspection, it looks like there's 2 points of attachment to the holster. If you look at the shadow of the first connection, then look at the silhouette of the baton, it appears there's a darker section on it coming from attachment area. Now if you go downward, you'll find another one at the bottom of the holster on the baton. The holster is clinging to that section. I believe that is the second point of contact. This explains why the baton only budged slightly when the door exploded in the prisoner break scene. There's also a particular highlight at the bottom of the baton itself, as you can see it has a slight reflection at the bottom. I think there's a possibility it could be similar to darthcue's handle, and how it has a special grip section of sorts. I don't know though. If anything, that light reflection on that tiny part could be a handle extension. Here's what I think the CRL need's added: -Has 2 points of connection: One just below the top of the holster, and one at the very bottom of it. -Holster design is as pictured.

Congratulations trooper and welcome to the ranks

Congratulations!

Congratulation Daniel[emoji1303] Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Tonight I’ve ended the belt, I’ve glued the drop box and the cover for the single cap of the belt Then I’ve fix the ammo on the right thigh, only with the single cap, next time when I try to walk I decide if I’ve to use a little of e6000 on the ammo to block it in position Than I’ve use the epoxy filler tixo to create a support for the switch of the fan and the powerbank, paint with the plastidip, and glued with the e6000 And glued the front of the left shin Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Welcome back Daniel and thank you for your Centurion application. CRL and Centurion Application Requirements: All required submission photos are present. Thank you for making the updates suggested during your EIB application. Andrew and I are pleased to say your armor displays all the elements as set out in the Centurion CRL. Congratulate and welcome to Centurion rank!! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly: We have nothing to add here. Beautiful job on your build Daniel. Time to head out and make the Empire and your garisson proud.

Congrats Ruthar and welcome to the centurion rank!

Hi all, So, I’ve just finished playing with my power cylinders. Let me start by saying, I’ve used Tino’s work as a guide but I’ve not followed it exactly. So, I know it’s not completely accurate, however it’s a big step up on the Doopy’s part as it was. I had the red wire from Tino’s kit, but needed something to ‘plug’ them into (under the rear of the cylinders). So, I decided to use a straw - yes, a drinking straw. I decided to fill it with green stuff and then plug the wire into the soft green stuff. I used a lighter to slightly singe the ends of the red wire fabric to stop them fraying too much. The parts touching the central capacitors are superglued in place. To add shape to the wire, I used the thin, copper wire that was inside the main wire (that I’d stripped out previously), twisted it together and inserted it back into the wire where needed. Before and after. Hopefully once all painted up it should look super. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Morning all. Following my previous, slightly uninspiring post, I had a much more productive 20 minutes before work today. Btw, thanks for the tips and hints following the last post. :-) So, trimmed the clearing strip down to just over 6mm. Much neater. In that note, I’d like to highlight another small, but I feel effective, mod. I really wanted the clearing strip to appear like it is separate from the body. As such, I needed it to sit ‘under’ the ejection port hole, not shaped and touching the port hole. So, after doing the usual mod of using a modelling tool (scraper of sorts) to give more definition, I used my smallest drill bit (1mm I think) to clear enough room to fit the strip. This now allows the strip to tuck under the body and appear to be separate, as if connected to the bolt only. So, with the clearing strip cut to size, I positioned it. It is not yet glued, just wedged into the gaps I mentioned above. (I’ll refine the shape of the strip a little later). I then moved on the to the inner bolt strip. As I mentioned before, I’m using MDF for this part. As the piece I’d cut was a little shallow, I padded it out with some left over 1mm ABS. In the pics, there is one piece of 1mm - that was still a little too shallow so I double it. I used super glue to attach the abs to the MDF, then sanded both to the desired size. To match the appearance of the curved bolt, I sanded the top edge of the MDF to show a slight curve. I then marked a nice, straight line with a junior hacksaw, then started to file away down to a 1mm depth, approx. Only the top part done for now, but I’m really pleased with how it’s looking so far. As always, more to come. :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And one more...

No Kit is approvable out of the box. But if build correctly, it can be 501st approved. As others mentioned, Anovos is known to have very long delays. You may be waiting over a year for your kit. There are many other armor makers to choose from. I suggest heading over here: Good Luck on your future build!

Not one to rest on my laurels, I brought in the shoulder bells more and added poppers to hold the belt level Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Congrats! Great looking armor. I'm using this and a few other builds while I work on my own, hoping to reach this level myself soon, but I'm currently. still waiting for my 501st approval to go through.

Update #07 - Found a way When I came across this cabinet at work, there had actually been two of them. So I still had the option to use the backdoor from the second cabinet. Just had to get rid of the venting slots to install glass there. Used this opportunity to transfer some design from the gun rack onto the cabinet door… Bought a sheet of Polycarbonate (t=3mm) and glued it to the door with clear double-sided adhesive tape. Removed the protection cover, added the lock and a foam seal to close the gap between both doors and the cabinet. Then added front door, gun rack, 3 blasters plus some collector items and placed my TK mannequin next to it. Yes, the cabinet looks a bit empty and I am still thinking about ways to fill it. There is enough space to install 3 identical gun racks for a total of 9 blasters (like Bapty, real Sterling, ESB and ROTJ versions, maybe a Rogue One version and so on). Alternatively the dimensions allow the storage of 2 or 3 BFGs below that gun rack. Not promising anything now but maybe an update will follow in a few months (or years). Anyway, for the moment I call this project done. Thanks everybody for reading and commenting. Enjoy your weekend Troopers and Cadets

The First Husky Order

Here is the Husky storage container completely painted. Working on getting the vynl for the First Order logos now. Will be getting a plaque with my TK number once I get it.

I swear E6000 solves all the problems in my life Can't get my helmet trim to sit right? E6000 My purse clip fell off? E6000 Wooden door stop broke in two? E6000 Depression? Sniff E6000

get a set of sport glasses like basketball players wear. soft frame. wear those inside your lid. they are called zoom RX LINK with prescription upload.

You can't really see out the dang buckets anyway so worry about it hahahah! jk