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this is the machined inner body,, i have a cast one being done alos,,, its a perfect copy.... The machined one are limited... ive only made 35 of then... But i think these will be great for concept builds and adding electronics...

Thanks Andrew! Wow, never thought of applying this for centurion... that's flattering and very kind of you. But I don't know if this worth it or if it meets the standard. And wasn't done with that goal in mind... just for a cheap way to complete a mannequin display. I also own a DD kit that sometime in the future will be the main gun in the house, but thinking that it will deserve to be displayed on its own, so this rubies is going to be the blaster for the mannequin for better or worse. but I give you one thing there... this mod got what I modestly think is a good piece for a very low budget. I'd have to run the numbers, but definitely under 50€ and probably under 40€. Most of the things used are spare plastics and sintra foam and resins and bondo and spray cans that I already have... so in this aspect this is something to consider, to provide a cheap way to reach higher ranks for everyone, without having to spend crazy cash. thanks again for your kind words and your support during the process. Nice to have you there all along. cheers.

STERLING SMG MAGAZINE BOTTOM PLATE Finally done with the magazine mechanism mod, and hence concluding the entire E-11 build...for now. I want to thank all the amazing, talented builders out there for sharing their journeys here through their detailed, informative threads. You continually raise the bar and inspire so many (more than you think) like me to make stuff. I also want to thank everyone who left encouraging comments on my thread. You guys rock! To be continued...?

I've been asked by more than one Imperial Cadet recently if I would make a post that details the steps involved in becoming a Stormtrooper. Here it is, and here are the steps: 1. Find the First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment website/forums at www.whitearmor.net. You are reading this so, CONGRATULATIONS! You are well on your way! 2. Begin researching the available armor kits in the Getting Started section so that you can make an informed purchase, research is your best friend throughout this process: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/38-getting-started-read-this-first/ 3. Contact your chosen armor vendor and begin waiting patiently for Big Brown Box Day. 4. While you're waiting, begin collecting your accessories for the build, and additionally required items like an E-11, boots, canvas belt, tools, snaps, etc. There is plenty more, but remember step #2. 5. Big Brown Box Day! (take pictures, this will be a day long remembered!) 6. Start your build thread at FISD here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/31-costuming-and-builds-501st/. Take pictures, take a deep breath, measure twice, cut once, ask questions before you do something you'll be unhappy about later, all mistakes (within reason) are fixable. 7. Complete the build of your High Quality Imperial Stormtrooper costume, and rejoice. It's about to get technical. 8. Ensure that you are 18 years old, and visit the 501st Legion website's Join Us page: http://www.501st.com/members/join_how.php 9. You will need to make a decision about what you'd like your TKID to be. You'll have to list five choices in your order of preference. Available numbers can be found here: http://www.501st.com/members/search_avail_ids.php 10. Fill out and submit the application found here: http://www.501st.com/members/join_form.php 11. Take your submission pictures and submit them to your Garrison Membership Liaison (GML). A list of the Garrisons can be found here: http://www.501st.com/members/displayUnits.phpIf you don't know who your GML is/or how to contact him or her, this list will assist you with that process. Photo's required: Full length, Front, Side, Back, Side, Action and Helmet off. 12. After you submit your pictures to the GML, he or she will contact you (be patient) to let you know if your costume is accepted, if you need to make alterations, or whether you need to re-take any photos. 13. If you need to make alterations or re-take pictures, submit them in the same manner in which you submitted the first ones. 14. When your costume is accepted by the GML, he or she will forward your pictures to the Legion Membership Office for approval and assignment of your TKID. When your costume is accepted, all you can do is wait for an email from the 501st Legion to arrive, confirming your TKID assignment. Congratulations, and welcome to the 501st Legion, and again, be patient. 15. When you have received your assigned TKID, you have one more important step to complete, and that is to request Legion Access here at the FISD. You do that using this thread: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/16-501st-trooper-status-requests-include-link-to-your-501st-profile-in-your-request/In your request post, include your newly assigned TKID, and a link to your Legion profile page.

Looking at these image yes I'd say you're correct.

That is fantastic!!!!!!!!!

Oops! my bad. Had the knee cap stuck in my head

Cover strips inside thighs now curing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! That's exactly what I needed to know! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With making return edges you can use a small piece of wood on either side of the edge to clamp together while cooling to give you a nice flat finish. Coming along nicely.

Well I've messed up the outer cover strip on the left greave It's about as straight as a dogs hind leg... doh ... so off it came and the greaves were split and re-trimmed.... the raised bit at the front was a few mm too wide Stuck it all back together again.... Now the right greave.... I'm still fettling the sniper knee plate.... I think I'm almost there? I think I need to trim it to the line shown below? And the other side seems fine I've also trimmed the ab buttons, do these look ok? But the small button plate seems too big.... but I'm not to sure what, if, or where to trim anything else off ? Any advice? I think I have the drop boxes sorted? If they are ok do I glue them now or fit the back piece to the belt first and then glue on the front? Oh and before I cut out the rivet covers out for the ammo belt.... what size should they be? Next job is to trim down the thigh ammo belt thing and start to strap the torso together... then I can see how it all fits together and assess what I need to do with the thighs and if the torso needs shortening..... I'm getting there Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine doesn’t move, but as said glue the bolts to either the body or the stock but not both and it will still move.

Ah of course! Thanks for clearing that up for me Dan [emoji106]

artimorty, amazing work my friend! I'm curious if FISD will allow this mod for a Centurion build. Keep up the great work. ~Andrew

Looking good

I love hearing someone is too busy researching to build, nice work :D. Really depends from armor to armor how the pieces sit and go together, looks like you have done well getting them aligned. Good luck you are going great.

Ok update on the build. Sorry haven't posted much for a while. Kinda been in research/Q&A mode. First of all, it was my birthday today! And what did I do? You guessed it. Worked on my build of course! My wife helped me measure (again) the torso section and I trimmed that down to size. Forearms are officially done. Trimmed the thigh ammo using the TD pipe (Per trooper bay build video tips). Picked up my rolling case for trooping! I'm jumping the gun a little, but I've just been so stoked to buy it! I have some cool design mods in mind for it. I also got some great undersuit pants from Amazon. First ones I ordered weren't good. But I need to send back the undersuit top again. I think another size smaller will do. I've been really wrestling with the thigh pieces, is that normal? There were several boiling water baths that took place to get them right. I think it's the fact that when you trim them to your body, you're not just cutting straight lines off the back, they're diagonal. So then the ABS doesn't want to bend to connect. I think I finally got them to a good place now. 20mm backing strips are being E6000'd to those as I type this. Another post coming with bucket build details! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rum will definitely help. I build with bourbon myself.

Many reasons: 1. Because it was not a decision I was comfortable making on my own via PM without getting input from the forums. 2. Because I believe in transparency and there is no way we should make a decision on a new CRL like this without explaining why. 3. Decisions for CRLs actually in general should be made on the open boards so everyone is aware. Just because it wasn't used in L1 doesn't mean it wasn't a great find. You did good

Photos posted to https://origin-wiki.501st.com/databank/TK_TLJ_Executioner Just waiting on final LMO review. Cross our fingers gents!

I will just say for now it will not be an L1 requirement for the cod.

Great boots indeed. You'll want to keep the zipper nicely oiled. If they're like earlier versions it gets a little stiff. Also, do all you can to line the bottom of your shins as the leather gets worn pretty easily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Can't go wrong with the boots, really comfortable and durable. Another few pieces to the puzzle

Hi all, I recently acquired a very interesting piece for my E-11 Blaster and excited to share! I have a replica Hengstler 400 Counter created by Tino himself. I just so happen to inquire about his counters after placing my completion set order as he had a limited run back on 2015 for conversion counters. I was delighted to hear he was about to do a limited run of complete counters and that I was first in line for one of these. As it turns out, he is not offering a run of these any longer so I have the one and only unique piece! I'm feeling pretty special about now. This replica Hengstler 400 Counter is a complete piece, fitted with an original Hengstler socket, and maintains the exact dimensions of the original counters. Tino masterfully shortens the metal housing and plastic cover to correct Hengstler size. Sorry Eagle enthusiasts, no big or small logo on this type of counter =) Without the two screws and boarder as well. Furthermore, this type of counter came with a D-shaped window for the plastic case side of the counter. The curvature is nice and I appreciate this detail. I agree with Tino that this stylized window exceeds the flat window on the original counters. The reset button for the number rolls is operational and numbers can be reset to zero with a push of this button. Number rolls are set manually by finger. Number rolls are each in black with all lettering in white, which is screen accurate. A really interesting feature that adds to the realism of the piece is the preservation of the coil; it can be seen inside the black plastic socket through the slots. The coil also adds believable weight to the counter. Adding further to the realism is Tino's added touch of including soldering and a short wire to the connector pins. I also asked Tino to age the counter and he's done a stand-up job. Tino with his fine craftsmanship, impressive indeed - I am fortunate to own this unique piece.

Looking forward to the progress good luck

You, my friend, are a steely-eyed missile man!!! This worked PERFECTLY!!!! I just had to start it with the edge of a utility blade and then I replaced it with a rigid 1 1/4" putty knife (not the flexible) that had somewhat of a bevel. As you indicated, all I had to do was to gently tap it down with a small gunsmith hammer. I didn't freeze as frankly I didn't have the patience to sit around and wait. Thanks again for the advice!!

Thanks again for all of your respective ideas and input. It it looks like the plan will be to "freeze, shimmy and pop"! I'll let you guys know what happens. I may be posting a request to find bicep armor real soon! lol.

Sweet! Can't wait to get one of these. Your counters will have all the looks of the originals plus room on the inside to accommodate electronics like Paul at TRamp offers.

Don't forget to refer to the cannon shots mate, when aiming for Centurion. I played it safe and changed them out as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In-coming....another WIP update: Inner bolt clearing strip I went and studied the correct location of the clearing strip on the inner bold with FISD E-11 Blaster Reference as my primary source. I then etched in the location using a pencil and measured out the width of the strip along with the approximate length of the strip. The width measured 6mm and the length measured approximately 50mm. I then followed these dimensions and cut to shape on a 1mm thick plastic piece using my lexan scissors. I then proceeded to go at trimming the ends of the cut clearing strip. It was a bit tricky trying to gauge where to cut, especially when putting it against the curved inner bolt. After eye-balling it the best I could, the ends were cut and then I proceeded to shaping it. I heated the strip using my heat gun. At high setting, the 1mm thick plastic became pretty maleable, pretty quickly so I pushed it against the inner bolt over the templated part of it. I used the middle portion of my long nose pliers to push down on the strip. After some trial and error, I did manage to twist the strip to form along that part of the inner bolt. Here, I go about gluing the clearing strip to the inner bolt. I created a glue applicator using a piece of armature wire and used a piece of this kind of wire to rough up the glue-side of the strip to prepare it for adhesion. The CA of choice is E-6000. I figured using it would give me more know-how when I do use it to build my TK armor in the future. With the clearing strip glued in place, I used a clamp to keep things together for the curing process. Also, I felt I needed to use the popsicle stick method to fill the void between the outer receiver tube and the top of the clearing strip. Here is the clearing strip as it should be after gluing. I will check in 24 hours how it dried. Thank you once again for reading, cheers!! Jesse