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Hi James! To answer some of your questions: 1. Blasters are not required for Basic 501st approval, but are for Level 2 (Expert Infantry). Assuming you are going for ANH Stunt, the details/requirements can be found in the CRL: Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. 3-D printed blasters can not contain visible print lines, and must be sanded smooth for a more realistic appearance. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Bapty-style, Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions. The blaster may have minor weathering or base metal exposure however, T-tracks and grips shall have the appearance of black plastic. 2. I haven't done one personally, but they can be pretty expensive, especially the metal parts. There is a seller on ebay which I have used to replace many of the resin parts on my blaster with here. Pricey but well worth it if you are looking for screen accuracy. Hopefully someone can chime in here with some help. 3. There are a LOT of 3D printed files out there to choose from, (like these), but be careful. Many are simply not screen accurate and not up to 501st standards. The best thing to do if you find one (or more) you like is to post up a link here and we will be more than happy to give you advice. 4. The only kit I know of is Doopydoos, who sadly is not making them any longer. There is some fantastic information and lots of build threads here which may help, but always feel free to ask if you have any specific questions.

I use a Hasbro with Doopy Doo update kit for general trooping, it's pretty light and has lights and sounds which the kids love. For higher profile (L3) I have a Doopy Doo pipe build which is a little heavier but way more accurate.

Hi Luke, For E11 Blaster reference you may want to look this Thread I use a Praetorian Blasters Rubber E11 , and have moded a Hasbro E11 with the Doopy Doos conversion resina Kit and have seen some videos in You Tube about Doopy Doos E11 kit. In my opinion: Rubber Blaster is better for Trooping , it resist falls and shocks, while the resin, although it looks strong, can suffer fractures when falling or hitting. Obviously the cost is a big difference between both. I have read some trooper to have both, but it's your choice. Hope this can help.

Doopydoos sells 2 types of kits, one for upgrading Hasbro blasters and one to build a complete one. Hasbro upgrade kit- https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e11-hasbro-blaster-conversion-skin-kit-mk2-2636-p.asp Complete E-11 kit- https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp The complete kit is often out of stock, but you can ask to be notified when it is back in stock. If you decide to order one of these, do it immediately when they notify you, as they disappear very quickly!

hello i have the Hasbro her Wher did you get the doopy doo,s kit? or is the a file for a 3d printer? thank you from the Netherland

If a picture paints 1,000 words then this photo review of @Hellhounds' rubber E-11 blaster will be an EU-expanse worth of information for any Trooper seeking a product comparable to the old Hyperfirms and the newer Praetorian blasters. The inspiration for this thread came from the fantastic comparison (thread) of a Hyperfirm (HFx) B-Grade rubber blaster verses that from Praetorian Blasters (PB), by @kman. In fact, the angles of my photographs are intended to replicate those used by kman, to provide the opportunity for close comparison of the three models. Essentially, these two threads should compliment each other. The Hellhounds Props (HHP) E-11s (among other blasters) are new as of October, 2019, and are currently available from Daniel directly, as well as from @TK-4510 on Trooperbay. As I understand it, this purchase is from the first run of a dozen blasters, and thus far there appear to be no user photos of these Hellhounds rubber E-11s on FISD. Daniel from HHP currently has threads mentioning his E-11 product here and here. Regarding Rubber Blasters For those of you unaware, these "rubber" blasters are actually constructed of a combination of foam and rubber, and may have some form of armature (solid framework) serving as the skeleton. The benefits of rubber blasters are primarily weight, durability, and safety. These rubbers are heavier than standard Hasbro and Rubies conversions, as well as most resin builds—providing a slightly more realistic helf—while still remaining light enough for hours of trooping. Fully metal E-11s can start to feel really heavy really quickly. As you'll see below, the HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz, or 2.19 lbs. Rubber blasters are also less likely to break if dropped, and if a component does come off, it will likely just need to be re-adhered, rather than reconstructed (resin or plastic may have cracked or shattered). Finally, rubbers are safer when trooping in close proximity to children who may wander outside the line-of-sight of a Trooper with a bucket on. A swing and impact of a rubber E-11 is less likely to injure innocent bystanders. The most obvious disadvantage of rubber props is that they are generally not as detailed and refined as their resin counterparts, but advancements in molding techniques are changing that. Now, to be clear, I am in no way associated with or being compensated by Hellhounds or any other blaster maker for this review; I am simply seeking to provide Troopers with data on a new product. Note, too, that throughout this post I will link to parts of the official FISD E-11 Blaster Reference thread (here is the Rogue One Reference), to provide additional insight and imagery. So, without further ado, open kman's thread below, split-screen your device, and feast your eyes on three types of rubber E-11s from this (US) side of the pond! NOTE: The images below may not appear as clear/crisp as they do at full resolution since the FISD/browser display compression isn't great. Clicking each photo will open a full-scale version which should present better clarity, at least in a web browser. HHP TOP DETAIL VIEW The Hellhounds Props (HHP) magazine appears to be closer in length to a Praetorian Blaster (PB), rather than the notoriously-shortened Hyperfirm (HFx). HHP appears to be just a hair shorter than PB, but I've also seen longer magazines on some images posted by Daniel on social media. Perhaps HHP magazine length is still being fine-tuned, but I may try to see if I can acquire a longer one. Additional, note that the HHP Hengstler counter includes the two soldering pins, while the PB and HFx do not. Finally, there is a HFx-quality seam on the HHP between the rail and top T-track, but the HHP T-tracks' quality and installation into the venting holes matches those of PB. HHP TOP VIEW Immediately obvious from this view is that the HHP has a static (non-movable) aluminum D-ring installed, similar to that from PB, but the PB version is rubber cast directly to the end cap. This HHP is similar to HFx in that it does not have a faux recoil spring behind the charging handle and bolt, like that provided by PB. Notice a slight tinge of brass on the scope, and a pretty minimal and clean seam line on top (much like PB). HHP FRONT VIEW This is where further distinctions are easily identifiable between the three blasters. In general, the HHP has cleaner lines than a B-Grade HFx, but PB comes out on top with the crispest lines and no visible seams. One of the HHP front scews is excellently made (PB quality level), and the other is adequate. The front sight is also correctly thin, matching that of PB and differing from HFx's thick block, and the HHP barrel bore dept on the HHP is 0.5" (1.27 cm). Note that, with blaster in-hand, the tip of the HHP appears cleaner than this close-up photo presents. Macro photography tends to reveal blemishes which would otherwise be indistinguishable to the naked eye from normal real-life use distances. HHP BACK VIEW As previously mentioned, the HHP includes an aluminum D-ring (woohoo level 3), while the PB included a molded rubber one, and HFx none at all. Once again, PB came out ahead with the most detailed knurling on the rear sight, followed by HHP, with HFx at the bottom of the pile. The rear end of the scope appears to be of similar quality on all three E-11s, and notice the more visible brass color on the rim of the scope (also present on the front, seen later). HHP RIGHT SIDE Stormtroopers and Femtroopers, I present to you, a METAL SCOPE RAIL, with open space underneath! You read that right. HHP finally provides us with an OT E-11 without a solid rubber rail, which was and still is the standard with HFx and PB. This was actually one of the two major factors in my decision to go with HHP (price was the other). Of course, doing so sacrifices the recoil spring and the clearing strip and extractor detail on the ejection port. Make note, too, that this HHP scope does not have the round knob on the right side. HHP LEFT SIDE An iconic angle of the E-11. The trigger guard appears to be of similar thickness to than on an HFx, which may be just a hair thicker than a PB. The guard feels very sturdy and I'd have no concerns holding my index finger on it during a long troop. The trigger itself is cut out in the same fashion as an HFx, with more open space below and behind it than that provided on a PB, and the HHP trigger feels a bit flexible, which leads me to believe it is cast in solid rubber. Additionally, aluminum appearance is present beneath the selector switch on the HHP, a detail left out by HFx but included by PB. HHP BACK QUARTER VIEW This perspective highlights the metal scope rail, though take note that the rail is thicker than it appears in this image (due to camera lighting). I spoke with HHP about the strength of the rail prior to purchasing, and Daniel assured me that it is solid—which I agree with. That scope isn't going anywhere, and I do not foresee any sag in the long-term. Notice the screw head on the underside of the rail, which secures the scope (a second is obscured from view by the counter). Additionally, this angle, once again, shows the magazine length, which is significantly longer than the HFx but perhaps just a hair shorter than the PB. And finally, two notes regarding the rear sight area. First, the horizontal retaining pin area has been molded as a recessed space on the HHP, as opposed to raised and textured (faux) pin on both the HFx and PB. Second, though not easily discernible in any of these images, there is a locking notch band at the end of the receiver tube on the HHP. HHP BOTTOM VIEW Another major differing point of this HHP blaster with PB (unsure of HFx), is that Hellhounds hollowed-out and split the arms (wishbone) of the folding stock. On the Praetorian the two arms are actually a solid piece molded with and surrounding the trigger guard. The second photo below shows this up-close. AWESOME! The only other distinguishing feature from this angle is the length of the magazine, and the already-discussed aluminum appearance beneath the selector switch. HHP EXTRA VIEW This angle shows several features which are missing from the HHP blaster but were included by PB and HFx. The ejector knob is missing on the HHP, as are some greeblies on the magazine which are present on the PB (but also not included on the shortened HFx mag). These omissions, and perhaps also some missing details on the front and rear of the power cylinders are perhaps the greatest shortcomings of this Hellhounds blaster. It's possible that the ejector knob fell off in-transit, so I will be reaching out to Daniel to inquire about a replacement/addition. On the plus side, the casting of the Hengstler counter appears very nice. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at @Hellhounds and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. In the meantime, he is planning on sending me those individual pieces to add on to my baster. HHP ADDITIONAL ANGLES The images from this point on are all from new angles not included on kman's Hyperfirm vs. Praetorian thread. They are intended to highlight the fine detailing present on these Hellhounds blasters, and will so provide a better view of the of the differences in the three rubber E-11 blasters. These first two images provide alternate angles of the mag well area, showing the lack of the ejector knob. The two soldering pins on the Hengstler counter are also visible. EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch. Notice the detailed inscriptions and oval inlay on the bottom of the magazine well, shown below. Very nice, as is the texture on the magazine itself. The two images below highlight the T-tracks, venting holes and folding stock. As previously mentioned, the T-tracks are smooth and straight. While I am not certain that the original Sterlings had such a texture on the stock metal, I definitely like the presence of the it as it adds to the weathering and could even be considered to be carbon scoring. "You boys have seen a lot of action..." The image below shows a close-up profile view of the muzzle screw, front sight, flash guard, and folding stock butt. Notice that, in the same fashion implemented by HFx and PB, and clearly for the purpose of providing structural support, the front sight is not hollowed out on the HHP. The two images below are intended to highlight the charging handle, ejection port and guard, and texture on the folding stock and grip. Note that, as already established, there is no recoil spring, clearing strip, and extractor on the HHP. However, the grip detail is fantastic. Additionally, other than the rubber trigger, the grip is the only other place on the blaster where flex can be found—on the smooth front and back. I suspect this may be intentional to provide comfort in-hand, and I like it. Below: End cap and D-ring from both sides. Also shows the end cap clip, scope rail, and rear sight again. The textured and inscription details on the back of the scope can be seen on the photos below. While there is some brass weathering, a little more would be nice. These two photos below highlight area around the front of the scope, showing the molded screws, metal rail, power cylinders, and the soldering pins on the Hengstler counter. Notice more brass color on the scope rim. The HHP weighed in at 35.03 oz (2.19 lbs or 0.99 kilos), comfortable for long troops. FINAL THOUGHTS By my assessment, the Hellhounds Props blaster situates itself right between the HFx Hyperfirm line and the Praetorian blaster. Overall the mold/seam lines are of better quality and more minimal than those on Hyperfirms, and approach or in some cases match those of Praetorian. A few details are missing on the Hellhounds, such as the recoil spring, magazine ejection knob, and greeblies on the magazine (EDIT: I reached out to Daniel at HHP and he said that future versions of his E-11 may include the ejector knob and magazine catch) and power cylinders, but conversely, HHP has included details not currently seen on OT blasters from Praetorian or Hyperfirm—a real metal scope rail and split arms on the folding stock! While this may not be the case forever, it is also worth noting that the Hellhounds E-11 is currently less costly than one from Praetorian. For me, this blaster was an EXCELLENT choice, and I would not hesitate purchasing from Hellhounds again. And there we have it. Hopefully this photo review can serve, in conjunction with kman's thread, as a valuable guide for any Trooper in the US considering purchasing a rubber E-11. Perhaps in the future I'll have the pleasure of owning more rubber blasters (DLT-19!) and be able to create additional comparison guides. I'd be happy to serve as a weaponry photographer/reviewer Amazon Vine Program style here on FISD. In case any of you missed the link near the top of this post, here is the FISD's official E-11 Reference Guide, followed by a Rogue One variant: Move along, move along... MV

Since many TKs are located in countries that do not permit weapons (even replicas) there is no requirement to even have one for Basic approval so you are good there. However, since Levels 2 and 3 are optional a weapon is required for those. Sorry, forgot to add those CRL requirements: Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place.

You may be out of luck there, Alan. That post is from Feb. of 2016. I know you are aiming for Centurion, but the Hasbro blasters are not permitted at Level 3, not even conversions. Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but there are alternatives! The Hasbro will get you to Level 2 with modifications (see below from the CRL) but what I would do is this: 1. Find files for a 3D printed one, but know that the print lines must be sanded down/filled. 2. Doopydoos makes an outstanding resin E-11 kit that if built correctly will get you to Level 3. (It's actually a fun build but takes time). Sadly, they are often out of stock. What you can do on their site is sign up for notification when they are available. When you receive that email from them, order immediately, as they sell out quick! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp If you want to take it to the next level of accuracy, you can get one of Tino's @T-Jay E-11 finishing kits. These are the BOMB, and he is a great seller! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/

And now, the trigger, trigger guard and selector switch are locked in. Used some nice two-part epoxy that's reinforced with aluminium, and modelled in some remaining details with green stuff. Decided to make everything static in the end - ultimately this is more about being a robust trooping blaster for me than having the functionality (if I wanted that, I think I might have done a Hasbro conversion.) And installed the pegs for ultimately attaching to the receiver... That's the grip kinda sorted (although if I find a dome nut, I'll swap that in beside the selector switch) Time to ponder which component to tackle next over the weekend.

I recently recovered my son's Disneyland E11 blaster that he was about to sell in a garage sale and decided to mod it with a Doopydoo's conversion kit to make it a little more accurate looking and use it as my initial trooping blaster. Eventually I'd like to do a full kit and do an accurate ANH build, preferably one with a working folding stock, inner bolt and ejection port. But in the meantime I wanted to post what I had done with this conversion. Here we go... Here's the toy my son was getting rid of

Some good news for ya', Dave... E-11s are not a requirement for basic approval, only for EI and above. (See bottom of this post). Besides the wire/item on the side it is connected to, the charging handle, end cap itself and perhaps the bolt opening you are actually in pretty good overall shape for level 2! Resin builds have come quite a long way, and there are replacement parts available that can be 3D printed. Don't worry if you don't actually have a 3D printer, though, there are services online that can to it inexpensively, and many folks here offer the files for free, like this: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/45065-anh-e-11-blaster-files/ If there are any you can't find, just ask. You can also have them made in cast aluminum, but those are pricier: (I used this eBay seller to replace a ton of parts on my resin build). ------------ I hope this helps, and here is a thread that should give you some more details/guidance: FISD Blaster reference guide- https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/ E-11 requirements as needed for EI and Centurion: OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). A real or replica ammo counter - based off of a Hengstler counter - shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. Two power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. No ESB/ROTJ greeblies are allowed on the blaster. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Hasbro and Rubies blasters are not allowed, even conversions.

Hi brothers, after obtaining my EIB I decided to share my build of E-11 blaster. I had an old Doopydooed' Hasbro that I decided to rework as a heavy duty blaster while I was working on the main one (Doopydoos classic resin kit). Of course ma main reference for information and tips was this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/ ... reference/ That's the Hasbro after I covered the screws, engraved the charging handle track and inserted the aluminium bar: Doopy's kit after the standard modifications on front sight, folding stock and engraving on the bolt. Bolts for the kit and for the Hasbro Counter on Hasbro was a printed one (calculating lens magnification and distortion) glued on a small tube. Counter on the kit was a real one. I used my son's birthday (that's also my TK id, sorta). The glorious power cylinders mod! On the paintjob: galvanized effect paint for the body, bronze for the scope, flat black for the counter: Final look of the blasters with a flat black over the previous hand, a bit of orange rusty effect and additional semi-gloss black on the handle. Some details: d-ring and spring Scope lenses were adapted from a small binocular that had cool red lenses. Hasbro has the usual trigger inside, the kit has a full free view (altough not useful as the binocular lenses were mounted reversed) Gli otturatori: Power cylinders! Top

Thank you very much for your compliments, Jim. Sorry I haven't been able to get back to you soon enough, really busy this days. I am more that flattered that some of you guys think this conversion deserves applying for centurion level no less! Thanks a lot for that. Honestly I don't even know if you can't apply a weapon alone, but I'm afraid you have to do it with your armor... and my anovos kit will still take a while to be taken care of. I will try to cross that bridge once we get there. Anyway, this conversion has much of what is supposed to be in an e-11 blaster, as any hasbro with a good old doopy kit would have, but this, imho has the advantage of a better profile and better shape in general, being the he main issue with this the smaller size and how close are the things in the middle section among them. Definitely it worth the effort and who knows... one day it might become centurion. thanks again!

Great idea, as it promotes blaster accuracy - and that is what these programs are about. My only concern would be costs/local laws which may prevent people from participating in the highest levels of accuracy. Not sure of the interplay with CRLs, I would imagine this would be a seperate thing. Either way, I think modded Hasbro's and park blasters should be disqualified from the get-go - there is a reason they aren't allowed at Level 3. Base level here should be something like a Doopy's kit or Hyperfirm IMO. I would also highly suggest coordinating this with Spec Ops/MEPD/etc. as there are other detachment CRLs that use E-11s/DLT-19's and it would be nice to have some consistency in this regard.

I am super impressed with how far you have come with this !!! You truly have set the bar for Rubies conversions. I also, am curious if this will pass for Centurion, as I was told "no" on mine during my EIB application, but then I have not done near as much as you have. {However, the CRL only points out the power cylinders and the d-rings as requirements for ANH blasters at the EIB level (which passed), but for Centurion the only remark is that Hasbro blasters are not allowed.....so who knows?} Personally I MUCH prefer your final product to any of the Hyperfirm or Protarian molded blasters. The filled in scope rails especially bother me, plus you have a real cut-out for your spring and charging handle!!! Again, GREAT JOB, and I will be following this thread for a while, not only to find out about the Centurion question, but because I have an extra Rubies that I am going to convert following you excellent example!! Thank you for this build thread!!

Might want to consider adding 'fully assembled' blasters like HFx as well as Hasbro/Disney Park conversion resources and make this the 'go-to' thread, which would be a great resource.

This looks like a a detailed build. I was looking at one of these kits to do once I have my armor ready. I'm working on a Hasbro/doopy's build right now, but I'd like to go Centurion so I will need an upgraded blaster.

I know my friend, don't worry for me, I'm waiting a complete doopy from Tino, the hasbro is only to make photo with the childs, but I need it Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

Sorry to hear how this ended up Tony. Hope you can get another hasbro kit soon. No worries about having a blaster for basic clearance, just need the armor, blaster not required. If you apply with one then you might want to check the requirements for acceptable blasters. But again, its optional for basic application.

Paypal refund me, probably doopy didn't give an answer, now I have to re-order another kit because I need it, the alternative is to sell the hasbro

That's sure, I'm very angry with them because I wrote to him that I needed the kit to convert my hasbro, for my request to enter 501, and not even to that they answered, I brought patience, but frankly I think they are really exaggerated, they have not answered my request for clarification through paypal, and this is serious, fortunately Tino sold me a complete kit that he had in addition, but anyway I need a hasbro kit and sell it only to them, becouse I bought an hasbro after the purchase of the kit, and now this hasbro have the battery empty[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk

Hi everybody, I made an order at doopy for an hasbro kit but after 4 month(3rd of may) I haven't recive nothing, I send many and many mails, to different address, but no answer, and my order result ever pending....I need this kit, but I don't know how, an especially when[emoji35][emoji35][emoji35] all the pepole say to my " be quiet" he arrive, but now I've lost the hope Inviato dal mio iPad utilizzando Tapatalk

Hammerite Hammered Finish Spray Is made for metal to stop rust. But i'm thinking to use it on my Modified Hasbro to get the "Hammered" look on everything except the grip, trigger, t-tracks, hengstler? Dunno if it would work thou, as it is not made of metal. Anyone else know or maybe even tried it?

Ian is spot-on there, Nathan. A lot of it depends on which type of E-11 you have/are building, (Hyperfirm, Doopydoos, scratch-built, Hasbro mod.) etc. If you post up a list of questions, there are a LOT of people here that will be more than happy to help!

Hey all, I'm in the middle of a Hasbro DoopyDoos mod, and I've been following Brent's thread as reference here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18583-yahm-yet-another-hasbro-mod/page-2 I am a bit stuck now, though. I have a pipe all drilled out, but I need to know how far the barrel protrudes out of the gun. Does that make sense? Post #31 in Brent's thread is where I'm at currently (for reference): http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/18583-yahm-yet-another-hasbro-mod/?p=228238 Anybody what to measure their E-11 for me? Thanks! SB