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SithThundercracker

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
  • Content Count

    25
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About SithThundercracker

  • Rank
    Centurion
  • Birthday 05/06/1982

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North-east Italy

FISD Info

  • Centurion Granted Date
    20180605
  • EIB Awards
    1
  • FISD Supporter
    No
  • EIB Cohorts
    ANH-S

Standard Info

  • Name
    Peter
  • 501st ID
    29916
  • 501st Unit
    Italica Garrison

Recent Profile Visitors

492 profile views
  1. Despite the overall quality of the stuff (which is VERY good), I completely agree.
  2. Yes, I saw Eelco patented PLAX3 himself. Just write him on FB if you have no news since June...it may be useful to remind him.
  3. Thanks! Yes it took me a bit of elbow grease but it was worth the effort. Ordered july 5th 2018, shipped november 8th 2018.
  4. Thanks mate. Filler primer was this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B077VND3JT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Paints were regular acrylics (cheap brand) I found at the hardware store here in Italy, these specifically: https://www.lindinger.at/en/cars-trucks-und-boats/accessories/paint-und-gloss/duplicolor-model-color-400ml-ruby-red-ral3003 I used gunmetal grey, flat balck and brown. All touch ups and rusty effect were made with diluted Vallejo acrylics. No protective coat at the moment.
  5. Thanks. PLA is pretty lightweight so it's comfortable, it's also decently strong and aluminium pipes give it a solid frame, but if you bump it a lot it may be a little more prone to denting than solid resin. And I'm surely gonna bump it, giving how big it is Thanks brothers!
  6. Hi bros, I bought a DLT-19 3dprinted kits from 3DpropsNL on Etsy last october, and finally managed to complete building&customizing&painting. First of all the kit, it came sorta like that (more red than black on mine): The kit is solid (two aluminium pipes inside) and surprisingly lightweight. Phase one was of course heavy sanding and glueing. I decided to keep it one piece to avoid paint scratching on connecting parts. (sanded parts are matte, unsanded are gloss) Phase two was the fun part: looking at tons of reference pics, I found out that the kit, although very detailed, is missing some stuff here and there; so I decided to add some details using some techniques I learned from the E-11 build. Some knurled patterns in a couple of strategic spots: A fatter, knurled handgrip: Viewfinder details: Another pattern for the bottom lever: Replaced both printed flaps with two plastic pieces, screwed directly to the pipe: Added a small tab and other details to the ammo load: Replaced the plastic tip of the locking stud with a long screw (secured into the pipe), adding a sculpted tip (that's for folded bipod stability): Carved the butt stock, adding pattern and a big screw: I also replaced the incorrect socket caps screws with flat ones neext to the handle and replaced all the moveable parts pins with headless allen screws. Phase three was a couple of layers of filler/primer: and a generous amount of gunmetal paint for the main gun, brown for the butt stock: Phase four was final assembly of remaining parts: Folded bipod was permanently glued to its locking stud: Flat black handle was added (also using headless allen screws, to be covered with round caps for accuracy): An accurate two pieces metal cover, painted flat black, was added to the ammo exit port: Phase five was final touch-ups with slight sanding overall, different shades of metal paint: Some good old rusty effect (also covering up for potential paint chip revealing the orange below): Accurate heavy weathering on the metal cover and round disc: Accurate round covers for the handle screws: And some brown patterns on the butt stock trying to simulate bakelite: Last but not least, I replaced the t-tracks that came with the kit with flat black PVC ones from Super6props, accurately shaped with knife: So here's the final result: I'm still undecided if I need the accurate (was it accurate for all used DLT-19?) metal wire around the t-tracks.
  7. Hi brothers, after obtaining my EIB I decided to share my build of E-11 blaster. I had an old Doopydooed' Hasbro that I decided to rework as a heavy duty blaster while I was working on the main one (Doopydoos classic resin kit). Of course ma main reference for information and tips was this thread: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/ ... reference/ That's the Hasbro after I covered the screws, engraved the charging handle track and inserted the aluminium bar: Doopy's kit after the standard modifications on front sight, folding stock and engraving on the bolt. Bolts for the kit and for the Hasbro Counter on Hasbro was a printed one (calculating lens magnification and distortion) glued on a small tube. Counter on the kit was a real one. I used my son's birthday (that's also my TK id, sorta). The glorious power cylinders mod! On the paintjob: galvanized effect paint for the body, bronze for the scope, flat black for the counter: Final look of the blasters with a flat black over the previous hand, a bit of orange rusty effect and additional semi-gloss black on the handle. Some details: d-ring and spring Scope lenses were adapted from a small binocular that had cool red lenses. Hasbro has the usual trigger inside, the kit has a full free view (altough not useful as the binocular lenses were mounted reversed) Gli otturatori: Power cylinders! Top
  8. Peter Tricarico 29916 EIB A4 Joseph Thanks!!! Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1 utilizzando Tapatalk http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/29916-eib.png
  9. Thank you very much... I really appreciate, brothers. And tonight I start working on those fixes for L3! Thanks for the blaster mention but everything I put on it I learned lurking on the E-11 section of FISD boards, so thanks to all those passionate brothers! I'm gonna share my built there soon. Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1 utilizzando Tapatalk
  10. Thanks for the feedback Dan ! I see the issue, I think that is the left leg armor edge that is pushing the dropbox out of alignment,even if I this somehow disappears when the armor is on the mannequin as it is right now. How should I arrange this stitch/glue mod? Dropbox to belt or dropbox to leg?
  11. TK-29916 requesting EIB status here! Name: Peter Age: 36 FISD ID: SithThundercracker TK-29916 Profile link: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=27567&costumeID=124 Affiliation: Italica Garrison, Sub Zero Squad Mandatory Information Armor = RS PropMaster Helmet= RS PropMaster Blaster= Doopydoos resin kit (heavily modified) Optional Height = 180cm Weight = 82kg Boots = Painted horse riding Johdpur Canvas belt = RS PropMaster Hand Plates = RS PropMaster rubber plates/ABS plates Electronics= AKER amplifier Neck Seal = Custom made (faux leather) Holster = PhiloProps Full body Front – Arms at side Back – Arms at side Left – Arm at side and raised Right – Arm at side and raised Right Side Detail – Arm raised Left Side Detail – Arm raised Abdomen Details Action Shot Helmet Front Helmet Side Helmet Back Hovi tip detail Lens detail Neck seal (the one on the left is more accurate, the other is comfortable) Thermal detonator (back) Thermal detonator fixed with black screws Belt Holster attachment Sniper knee Ammo pack Buttpiece S shaped rubber Blaster Strapping Boots
  12. Cheers brothers, new TK 29916 requesting trooper status here. Thank you! https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=27567
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