SithThundercracker

Thanks for the reply guys. So @justjoseph63 you went the same route: "hero" Sterling with greeblies. My main concern with this is that the Pugman had a fake scope rail with no "hole" below but the actual CRL for ESB Stormie, despite using a Pugman with the hole filled, is not mentioning that. So, is this kind of blaster approvable?

Sorry to gravedig this but I'm doing some research on ESB E-11. If I remember correctly this is the blaster RS use to sell, putting the Pugman greeblies (from their cast) to a hero version. Do we have any proof this is a reference from the era and not RS promo image? Do a blaster like that ever existed?

Despite the overall quality of the stuff (which is VERY good), I completely agree.

Yes, I saw Eelco patented PLAX3 himself. Just write him on FB if you have no news since June...it may be useful to remind him.

Thanks! Yes it took me a bit of elbow grease but it was worth the effort. Ordered july 5th 2018, shipped november 8th 2018.

Thanks mate. Filler primer was this one: https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B077VND3JT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Paints were regular acrylics (cheap brand) I found at the hardware store here in Italy, these specifically: https://www.lindinger.at/en/cars-trucks-und-boats/accessories/paint-und-gloss/duplicolor-model-color-400ml-ruby-red-ral3003 I used gunmetal grey, flat balck and brown. All touch ups and rusty effect were made with diluted Vallejo acrylics. No protective coat at the moment.

Thanks. PLA is pretty lightweight so it's comfortable, it's also decently strong and aluminium pipes give it a solid frame, but if you bump it a lot it may be a little more prone to denting than solid resin. And I'm surely gonna bump it, giving how big it is Thanks brothers!

Hi bros, I bought a DLT-19 3dprinted kits from 3DpropsNL on Etsy last october, and finally managed to complete building&customizing&painting. First of all the kit, it came sorta like that (more red than black on mine): The kit is solid (two aluminium pipes inside) and surprisingly lightweight. Phase one was of course heavy sanding and glueing. I decided to keep it one piece to avoid paint scratching on connecting parts. (sanded parts are matte, unsanded are gloss) Phase two was the fun part: looking at tons of reference pics, I found out that the kit, although very detailed, is missing some stuff here and there; so I decided to add some details using some techniques I learned from the E-11 build. Some knurled patterns in a couple of strategic spots: A fatter, knurled handgrip: Viewfinder details: Another pattern for the bottom lever: Replaced both printed flaps with two plastic pieces, screwed directly to the pipe: Added a small tab and other details to the ammo load: Replaced the plastic tip of the locking stud with a long screw (secured into the pipe), adding a sculpted tip (that's for folded bipod stability): Carved the butt stock, adding pattern and a big screw: I also replaced the incorrect socket caps screws with flat ones neext to the handle and replaced all the moveable parts pins with headless allen screws. Phase three was a couple of layers of filler/primer: and a generous amount of gunmetal paint for the main gun, brown for the butt stock: Phase four was final assembly of remaining parts: Folded bipod was permanently glued to its locking stud: Flat black handle was added (also using headless allen screws, to be covered with round caps for accuracy): An accurate two pieces metal cover, painted flat black, was added to the ammo exit port: Phase five was final touch-ups with slight sanding overall, different shades of metal paint: Some good old rusty effect (also covering up for potential paint chip revealing the orange below): Accurate heavy weathering on the metal cover and round disc: Accurate round covers for the handle screws: And some brown patterns on the butt stock trying to simulate bakelite: Last but not least, I replaced the t-tracks that came with the kit with flat black PVC ones from Super6props, accurately shaped with knife: So here's the final result: I'm still undecided if I need the accurate (was it accurate for all used DLT-19?) metal wire around the t-tracks.

Thank you brothers, I appreciate!

Thanks brothers!

Peter Tricarico 29916 Centurion A4 Joseph Many thanks!!! http://www.whitearmor.net/eib/certificates/29916-centurion.png

Thank you very much brother, it's an honor. That adds gratification to the huge fun of building! I'm happy!

Hi boss, no the glue it's working fine (E-6000 can't fail, see full armor side views) it's just the lazy guy (me) that recycled the old EIB pics without considering an update on drop box positioning. Here it is:

TK-29916 requesting Centurion status here! Name: Peter Age: 36 FISD ID: SithThundercracker TK-29916 Profile link: https://www.501st.com/members/displaymember.php?userID=27567&costumeID=124 Affiliation: Italica Garrison, Sub Zero Squad Armor = RS PropMaster Helmet= RS PropMaster Blaster= Doopydoos resin kit (heavily modified) Height = 180cm Weight = 82kg Boots = Painted horse riding Johdpur Canvas belt = RS PropMaster Hand Plates = RS PropMaster rubber plates/ABS plates Electronics= AKER amplifier Neck Seal = Custom made (faux leather and full cotton) Holster = PhiloProps EIB link: I made the corrections suggested by the guys: shortened the elastic bands on the arms and glued the drop boxes' loops to the belt. I decided not to trim my chest return edges as I like the armor on the beefy side and they're giving me no comfort problems. Sorry for the full armor images not being crispy as the EIB ones, but today light on the same location was not great. Front Back Left side arms at rest Right side arms at rest Left side arms up Left side closeup Right side arms up Right side closeup Helmet Front Helmet Side Helmet BackHovi tip detailLens detailHelmet intrerior S shaped rubberShoulder details Arms building No return edge on gauntlets Rubber handguards Sniper kneeAmmo pack Belt frontHolster attachmentBelt back Glued elastic loop Thermal detonator Abdomen Details Cod and butt details Internal strapping front Internal strapping back Rivets detail Back gap detail Armor construction: shins are velcroed Armor construction (left tight): strips Armor construction (right tight and right shin interiors): additional strips glued with ABS paste Blaster Neck seal (the one on the left is more accurate, the other is comfortable) Boots

Old clamps are out! Inviato dal mio WAS-LX1 utilizzando Tapatalk