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CableGuy

501st Stormtrooper[TK]
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Everything posted by CableGuy

  1. Eek. Yes, drilling out rivets can be a pain. Nice and slowly reduces the risk of melting. Out of interest, what made you choose to move the brow so low? Most ANH Stunt helmets had a nice gap above the eyes, including the RS helmet that yours was cast from. Original RS helmet; Random selection from ANH and ESB
  2. What an astounding achievement! So many useful, helpful and welcoming posts from Glen on a regular basis. Well done, Glen. [emoji122][emoji122][emoji122]
  3. Lovely progress so far. Good job. :-)
  4. Hi trooper, Just to add what my fellow troopers have mentioned, I’d raise a more fundamental suggestion - armour sizing. It looks like your limbs are quite a bit smaller that your armour, specifically your biceps, forearms and shins. As below, it looks like your arms are a bit lost in the size of the armour. This gives a slightly bulky appearance. You could consider trimming down the parts to better fit your size. This will give a sleeker, more accurate look. As above, there is perhaps a good inch / 1&1/2 inch gap around the bicep. Notice below and above how snug the bicep armour hugs the trooper. To achieve this, you could remove the coverstrip and trim even amounts from each side to reduce the overall diameter. With the big gap, you also ya e quite thick return edge on the bottom of the bicep and tops of the forearms. You could also consider similar with your left thigh and your shins. Below, note that the coverstrip should not extend beyond the armour. Plus, the snug fit around the boot that you could consider aiming for for that sleeker look. Best of luck with your EIB submission. Dan :-)
  5. Those ears look fine. [emoji1303][emoji16]
  6. Hi trooper, The ear screws on the outside are fine. The originals weren’t perfectly flat. No worries. The differing height of the ears could be down to the faceplate alignment. It looks like you have quite a steep angle on the brow (yellow) and the faceplate perhaps a little higher in the back/cap (blue): Do you have any photos from around 5 or 6 feet back from directly side on, front on and rear? Like this; These sort of photos will help us to see the alignment. :-)
  7. Hi Trooper, Many makers will offer built helmets as an option. Not sure on ATA, but RWA, RS, AM I believe all offer built helmets. Having said that, we all started somewhere so I’d be tempted just to give it a go. Check out some good build guides of videos and see how you find the process. If you start and it seems above your DIY skill set, that’s no worries. But, you might find it’s easier than you think. :-)
  8. Yes - the screws were visible inside. :-)
  9. Hi Kenneth, Following on from our messages on Facebook, did you hear back from your Garrison yet? Best wishes Dan B
  10. Hoi Kenneth, and welcome aboard. You’ve come to the right place. :-) Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Best wishes Dan
  11. Wow - great work, Mark. What a lovely project, and very nicely done. :-)
  12. Hi Ryan, Hard to exact here as the shadows can be misleading (when just looking at a photo on my phone), but, below is approximately what I’d consider.
  13. Hey troopers, A little update on this RS build. As below, and discussed in the linked video, I’ve been working on the frown area. Looking at the many pics of Simon’s original stunt helmet, the cut outs are unique and full of charm. Probably cut in a hurry to meet the production schedule, they’re far from “perfect” or “idealised”. As I’m aiming for a replica of Simon’s actual helmet, I’m following these quirks. More talk about this here; Stay safe, Dan :-)
  14. Well done, trooper. The grey looks much better. As you say, the black lines are a little thick at the moment. You could thin those out by using your grey paint. If you wanted to, you could enlarge the size of the “tears” as they are currently a little on the small side. Here’s how far I managed to push mine on my TM. Keep up the good work. :-)
  15. Welcome aboard, Dan. Plenty of excellent help around these parts. Best wishes Dan :-)
  16. Hey trooper, Your trimming on the underside of the bells looks good. I’m not sure you recommended removing all of the return edge. Aside from the wrist ends of the forearms, most parts of the ANH suit have at least a couple of mm of return edge. Here’s some examples of the bells. Very similar return to what you’ve done. :-)
  17. Hey trooper, Yes, you can definitely take quite a bit more out of the eyes. I’d suggest you use the gallery section of the forum and get some of the reference images of the eyes. Then, use your Pic Collage app to compares the reference photos with your work so far. That’s a great way to see how yours is looking in comparison. :-) As you are doing, using a knife (carefully) can give you a much more authentic look. Too much sanding and smoothing can take away the ANH charm. ;-) If it helps, I also built one of these DA Props HDPE lids a while back; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47447-cableguy%E2%80%99s-hdpe-anh-stunt-helmet-da-props/
  18. Excellent work, Mark. You got this!!! :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Superb job, Mark. Not a lot to report, really. You’ve made a really good job of your build and have clearly done your research. :-) Oh, super photos, by the way. Makes it super easy to see all of the details. [emoji1303] There’s only a couple of areas I’d mention for potential tweaks for those higher levels of details. Starting from the top, EXCELLENT job on your lid. Really has a lovely ANH vibe to it. Only little thing I’d ask is; are the insides of you hovi tips white? Might be the lighting, but, I’m they look quite dark in there? Bicep (Han) hooks; not sure if these will be questioned for EIB and Centurion. I’m not sure if they were ever seen on Stunt troopers (or even most hero troopers) so you could consider just fitting some internal elastics to keep a “troop worthy” bicep position. Waist belt; I’m guessing this is a Kittle belt? They seem to make them with a very large padded central system. As below, the originals did not have that central section, so you could consider an upgrade for higher levels of accuracy. Not sure how this would go at Centurion level. Lastly, from the front, the coverstrip on your left thigh caught my eye. This might not be possible due to the AP moulding (inner and outer lower ridge), however, you could consider shortening the coverstrip just a tad. Perhaps finding the middle point between the smaller ridge (inner part) and larger ridge (outer part)? As the parts are different sizes, perhaps find a happy medium? Reference; Superb job, Mark. Can’t see you having any problems with basic, and, with a few little tweaks, those higher levels are well within your grasp. [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
  20. Personally, I prefer the blaster without - as you say, that’s most common in ANH. Depending on how high you are aiming (pun intended), you could consider swapping out the power cylinders. Your’s look more like R1 style. Here’s a nice thread on the E-11; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/17306-e-11-power-cylinders-research-thread-renamed-from-3-central-fuses/ Out of interest, what make is the blaster? I notice that they’ve made the central t-track a bit too long and the scope rail a little short. As below, the scope rail usually comes further forward, almost in line with the front of the magazine housing. The middle t-track is then one barrel hole for their forwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. Take your time - you got this!! [emoji16]
  22. Wilkommen, Marc. Looking forward to seeing your progress. I don’t think I’ve heard of MovieFX before so looking forward to seeing what they offer. Best wishes Dan / CableGuy
  23. Hey Jakob, Great job! I think Glen has you covered. My thoughts were also; - Thighs at slightly different heights (just adjust strapping) - butt plate overlapping kidney (again, strapping adjustment will likely fix this). Best of with your approval. I’m sure you’ll do well. :-)
  24. Velcro could be quite an expensive way to do it compared with EVA foam sheets. Have you considered those as an alternative? Here’s how the self adhesive EVA foam sheets (around 2mm thick, I think) look inside one of my lids. You can then adhere Velcro to different areas, as required. :-)
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