CableGuy

Hey trooper, There’s many of us here that would be happy to help. Can you post up some pictures of your progress? :-)

Hi Mario, Of course. Please see below: Please let me know if there is anything else you need. :-)

Great spot, Glen. Those bottom corners especially. I feel a little tweak coming. :-) Thanks for the kudos. Fully spray painting the whole helmet really brings a different edge to it. I’ve noticed that the side rivets are overlapping after I uploaded the photos. I’m expecting an “advisory” for that. ;-)

Name = CableGuy / Dan Branton Armor Maker = TM Helmet Maker = TM Blaster Type = DoopyDoos with T-Jays completion set Optional Height = approx 5’10” Weight = approx 64kgs Boots Maker = self finished Canvas belt = TM Hand Plates Type = Imperial Warfighters Electronics = TRamp + TroopaCoola Neck Seal Type = The Imperial Seamstress Holster Maker = Burkbench Designs Hi folks, I’m back again with another suit. I finished this suit last Sept (2020) but am only just getting around to submitting. So, no additional EIB number required. Just for fun. ;-) Action shot: Ab detail (before bracket nuts were painted white) Cod / butt connection: Internal Strapping (original method): Helmet all angles (with hovi detail clear) Wrist end return edge: Thigh ammonia I attachment: Sniper Knee: Reference for alignment; Neck seal: Thermal Detonator: Green tinted lenses: Blaster in hand (helpful to see Hengstler position) Extras; Holster attachment (around 40mm from ABS belt) prior to side rivet painting Replica elastic shaping and added gaffers tape: Front return edge removed on shoulder bridges: Inspired by the original suits: Small details matter. ;-) Please let me know if I’ve missed anything. It’s been a while since my last application. ;-) Best wishes Dan / CableGuy

Super - yes, those would definitely have to be sanded to remove the actual points on the back. I’m with you on that. Curving the part as you suggest is optional (as the original suits mainly went straight up), but, as you said, those point return edges could be removed or sanded. :-)

Hi Joseph, It’s personal preference though, isn’t it. I know you mentioned that it “should” be trimmed as you suggested, however, if a trooper wants to follow the originals, they can follow screen used suits. Your suggested cut line is ideal if a trooper is after an ‘idealised’ look. [emoji1303] The photo of the RS suit is not jagged. With a little sand paper, you can easily follow the shape of the originals, yet not have any jagged edges. My own suit follows the originals yet I have no poking when suited up. I know you don’t like return edges either, however, same as above, that’s a personal preference. :-) With respect, of course, brother. :-)

Nice work! :-) When you get the adding the coverstrips, if you are looking for screen accurate (vs idealised), note how the coverstrips stop with the shortest piece of armour: Either way is fine - just personal preference. :-)

Welcome aboard, Trooper. :-)

Regarding sizing the back of the forearm (or any other parts in your build), personally, I’d start by following the RS videos step by step and size up from there. Rob kindly advises the size of the original parts that they own. So, I would listen to his measurements and tape the piece to that size, and see how it fits. If it fits you, that’s excellent - you can then go ahead and build to the original sizes. If it is a bit tight, you can then open up the back a little at a time to get a good fit for you.

Ah, cool. I hope they’re helpful. :-)

Hey trooper, Great to hear you are going for Centurion. As you are aiming high, I would avoid the supplied decals / stickers. As you suggested, the hand painted style paint templates from TrooperBay are a good middle ground. This link is handy before you start painting; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/44755-tube-stripes-anh-stunt-dave-m/ If you want to go the whole hog, you could try this method:

Yes, the TRamp is built on an Aker unit but with the other electronics built in. No need for separate units. So, it has the static bursts (they can be switched off if needed). There are lots of various clicks and bursts so it doesn’t sound too fake. It also has preset voice samples of the character you are using. Within the unit, you can select Stormtrooper, Vader, 3PO, Wookiee, Jawa, the list is over 20 or 30 characters. The samples then relate to the selected character. It has audio loops for many characters, too, including TK chatter. To trigger the samples and loops can use this with an optional remote or with optional finger triggers. The Aker is excellent for the money. No bursts or gimmicks, just a decent sound and no frills. :-)

I’ve not used or handled the 1506, however, the 1505 is basically the same size as the very popular “TRamp” system. I know troopers of many shapes and sizes that run one of these with their kit and I’ve not heard any issues of it’s size as yet. I have both (see below link) and, personally, find it no problem to fit easily behind the chest plate. I just hang it around my neck with the speaker facing out towards the chest plate. Both are more than loud enough. :-)

Hey there, trooper. Personally, I’m very pleased with my TRamp voice system. As a back up, I have a standard Aker MR1505 which, for around £26 GBP, is a bargain. Here’s my thoughts on both; For fans, I started with self built fans which worked fine. For a smarter look, I later upgraded to TroopaCoola. They are very well made and the ones I run are variable speed; If you’re in the US, I hear very good things about UKSWrath products. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303] Hope that helps. Dan

Hi Rodney, Making great progress, trooper :-) Not sure if you were aware of this, but, as you have an RS kit, the right thigh (when worn) is designed to have an offset at the bottom. (Rumour has it that the thigh ammo pack was put on there to cover the gap). ;-) No worries if you choose not to, however, this will give you a neater appearance at the top (the part that will be seen). :-)

hey there, Troopers. Bumping for new members, or as a reminder to anyone looking to paint their vocoder.

Well done, Mark. Great job. :-)

Hi Rodney Not sure if these will help for inspiration and technique? Notice using a spare finger to steady the painting. As Glen mentioned, light coats is usually the best way. Two different ways of painting the helmet; RS videos - original method with grey painted first, then thin black pinstripe Black painted first, then grey overlapped Both are using Humbrol paints.

I wonder if you have paint from a bad batch? Or they weren’t mixed fully? I only say that as I’ve used Humbrol paints for all of my helmet builds and it’s been fine.

Building your own suit gives you an immense feeling of pride and satisfaction. Most of us on this forum had not built costumes before we built a stormtrooper. As long as you take you time and do your research, there is no reason why you can’t build an excellent set of armour yourself. :-)

Hi there, Here’s a trooper at around 6’1” and 170lbs. Height wise, you’ll see that it’s perhaps a little bit borderline around the shins but certainly not too bad. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/43429-tk-19232-requesting-anh-stunt-rs-eib-status-777/ If you’re concerned about the fit, perhaps consider RWA Creations with their “big boy” parts. That includes longer shins and larger limbs and body parts.

Congratulations, Joseph. As others have said, you are true legend of the FISD, and a real asset. Here’s to many more years, Dan :-)

Hi Rodney, Neet work on the kidney strapping. However, if you are going to have a gap either side, you really need to even up the gap both sides. Otherwise, the “middle” or centre line of the ab and kidney (well, and the chest, back and butt), will be twisted off centre compared with your body. So, ideally, you’d need to measure the larger gap on your right (shown below in mirror image), divide this by two and then apply an equal gap to each side. [emoji1303]

What a wonderful story, Craig. So pleased you made it and reached your goal. :-) Dan

Initially, yes - but, just take it one step at a time. The “practical popper” method video that I posted before is by Ross from RWA. He also has a step by step guide on his channel for almost every step of the build. With my first suit (septa’s it was an RWA suit) I followed his videos step by step. I’d never built a costume before but followed them and made it all the way up to Centurion in the end. You’ll be fine, just take you time. :-)