CableGuy

Hey guys, Here’s some additional references that support Rich’s sniper knee placement.

Hiya, No worries. Happy to help. :-) I think most of us call them Hovi-tips or mic tips. ANH stunt helmets tended to have a white rim. In my view, it appears that the original hovi-tips for the movie were white (or close to white) parts that were then painted black on the outside. Hence the inside and rim being white on many. Here’s some examples; Personally, I like them to look quite natural, so I avoid painting the rim white. I prefer to have a white product, paint the outside black, and weather the rim if required. :-) (Discussed here at around 7:40 )

Hey trooper, Here’s how I paint my vocoders (skip to around 8mins); That brush in the video is excellent for vocoders. Known as a “filbert” brush, I believe. Since this video, I now paint the grey for traps and tears first, then paint the black pinstripe, FYI. :-)

Thanks, Trooper. :-) The blaster was officially released back in March, I believe. All sales are done through his Facebook group. https://m.facebook.com/groups/300153641472608/permalink/310426037112035/

Hey folks, Drawing closer to finishing this blaster. In this little update, I have; Added D-ring Added lock/free screw (actually just a resin cast) Added hex bolt on bottom of grip Added spring Prepared charging/cocking handle This certainly doesn’t look pretty, however, it looks okay once in the barrel. I used a child’s garden hoe as the correct diameter to coil my spring. And now some photos of where it’s up to.

Hiya, No worries, trooper. I only suggested it as they are the original sizes of the screen used suits and they show all the return edge sizes, where to cut the joins etc. However, if their sizes are too big for you, you don’t have much choice. As the front of the forearms, thighs and shins need to be the same anyway (only the back is adjusted if you need to make the parts smaller), I’d certainly try following the RS tutorials for the fronts. That should allow you the nearest look for this suit. You can then size down by trimming more from the backs of those parts. As you were, trooper. :-)

Hey trooper. Looks like your steaming through. :-) Just out of interest, are you following the tutorial videos by RS Prop Masters themselves? They guide you through every part, cut line, coverstrips, measurements of the originals. They will really help you match up all of the correct parts and maximise the end result of this beautiful suit. :-)

Well done, and welcome aboard. :-)

Hi folks, A final look at this helmet. This video covers the process of adding the tubestripes, as well as a good look at some of the details. Many thanks for following this thread. I hope it’s been useful. Dan / CableGuy

That’s a STUNNING design! Well done, Eric. And, hats off to the other excellent entries. There are some seriously talented folks in this detachment. [emoji16][emoji1303]

Hey troopers, A little more progress on this blaster. I’ve now attached the JMC scope and Hengstler to the scope rail. I’ve started a little subtle weathering, too. Rear end cap needs toning down and lots of other little bits still to do. :-)

Hi Tino, Yes, I was quite surprised at how well it worked. Came out pretty nicely. :-)

Haha. Maybe just a little.... here and there. ;-)

Hi folks, Just a couple of update photos coming up. Blaster with DoopyDoos scope and Hengstler. A little weight comparison between this JMC E-11 and the DoopyDoos. Humbrol Brass 54 for the scope, with the sides of rear feet masked Humbrol 33 Matt Black applied Light weathering to scope and front end of Hengstler counter (by gently rubbing with a file and / or sandpaper Resin t-tracks heated in a pot of boiling water, then shaped into barrel holes. * note - I wasn’t paying attention and mounted the top-middle track too long - I didn’t reserve the final hole for the scope rail to sit into. I realised this around an hour after spray painting. Thankfully, it was easy to reshape and re attach to the blaster. Matt Black 33 applied to the tracks and also a light coat over the Hammered black to reduce the shine/gloss. Note - one hole too long (below photo);

Ah, cool. I went to town on some of the details for the TM build. I followed the RS vids for the measurements but went above and beyond with some of the replication parts (like little quirks of the originals etc). I look forward to following your build. :-)

Hi Matthew, Actually, 5.10 and slim is almost perfect for the original sizes. I’d certainly start with the measurements that Rob gives in the videos to see if they’ll fit you. Trust me, the original sizes are pretty slim - I’m a reasonably slim fella and had to size up the thighs, for example. If you go too thin, the proportions might start to look ‘off’. Nice to hear you’ve seen my builds. If it’s the RWA build, I’ve learned a lot since then. I’ve posted quite a few educational videos on my YouTube channel which are more accurate, if you want to check them out: I’m very excited for you. The RS suits are literally a historic connection to the original suits. It’s very exciting building an RS product. :-)

Hey Matthew Hope the build is going well. :-) You mentioned a good build to follow - if I may, I’d suggest following (or at least watching) the YouTube series of videos by RS themselves. They discuss all of the original measurements and follow original methods as close as possible. They show references of real suits which, in my opinion, is the best reference you can get. If you’re a little bigger than the original actors, no worries - you can always scale up the measurements. Also, don’t forget the image gallery for inspiration: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/ Other build threads can be helpful for tips, however, you’re then copying a copy. If they got something wrong, you then get something wrong etc. :-)

Tak, buddy. That’s lovely to hear from you, sir. :-)

thank you, gents. Much appreciated. :-)

And it’s DONE!! Yay! :-) This has been a bit of a grind at times, however, I’m really pleased with the final result. :-)

Hi Rodney, From what I’ve read, I think RS only sell their blaster with a full commission build. I don’t think it’s available on its own. If you’re looking to build your own, TroopaCoola’s JMC E-11 kit is very detailed. Quest Designs Canada also made a nice resin kit. From what I’ve seen, the Quest Design model is a little more basic, however, the end result is still nice. :-)

Very nearly at the finish line. Painted the tubestripes today, using masking tape for the outer edges, then a pencil line for my to follow to try and get a good curve. (Not that easy, painting a curve onto a curved surface). I went with around 8mm gap from the cheek to the stripes (this is what I believe to be about a “pencil width”, as we normally all aim for). Personally, I like Frog Tape - it is sticky enough to stick nicely, yet not too sticky to damage the paint. Side by side with its inspiration. Lenses next to be added, then a little weathering. Then, off to its new home. :-)

Many thanks, Rob. Much appreciated. :-) To be honest, the hardest part was trying to get good alignment, given how much material had been trimmed off of both the faceplate and back & cap. Although, I’m pretty happy with how that came out in the end. Dan S and Simon both suggested I try the original black on grey method. I’m pleased they did as I’m now getting used to it and finding it easier each time. It just adds another level of detail and authenticity to it. Many thanks for your feedback. Means a lot. :-)

Thank you kindly, my friend. :-)

Nearly finished, now. Currently, he’s “Mr No Stripes” AND “Mr No Lens”... ;-)