CableGuy

Initially, yes - but, just take it one step at a time. The “practical popper” method video that I posted before is by Ross from REA. He also has a step by step guide on his channel for almost every step of the build. With my first suit (septa’s it was an RWA suit) I followed his videos step by step. I’d never built a costume before but followed them and made it all the way up to Centurion in the end. You’ll be fine, just take you time. :-)

I know that RWA Creations sells a complete strapping kit. I used it for my first suit build and it was very good. I don’t have one single photo of the whole set, I’m afraid, but below gives you a really good idea. This was around £45 GBP when I bought mine a few years back. [emoji1303] Optional “popper bases” for avoid the issue of glue and metal popper reacting and warping armour

Personally, I’ve never heard of heating the plastic after drilling holes. Although, I’ve only used ABS before, not PVC. As you’ll have seen from the RS videos, it’s not usually necessary - just some careful drilling is usually fine. Don’t forget, the bracket system is totally optional. You can still aim all the way to Centurion without the bracket system, if you wanted. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji1303]

Hehe. No worries. Glad to hear we’re coming across as helpful. [emoji1303][emoji1303][emoji23]

Hi Rodney, I hope we’re not coming across in the wrong way. Whilst we will offer tips and advice, along with some helpful reference photos, as I mentioned previously, the decisions are totally up to you. We would never want you to think we’re pressuring you to make changes. Hopefully the reference images help and can give you the confidence to trim here and there, if required. You’re doing really well so far - keep up the good work, and keep the updates coming. :-) Best wishes Dan

Of course, the final decisions are up to you, trooper, but, as below, you could probably still take another 4 or 5mm out of the return edge here. If you leave to return edges too large, it could start to look quite clunky. It might also dig in to you quite a bit. [emoji1303]

That’s for the sides (against your picture of the side of your back plate). ;-) Here’s the bottom edge of the back plate on the original RS Suit; If ever in doubt, check out the gallery - there are two excellent folders with pictures of nearly every part of the RS suit. :-) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/

Hiya, For the back plate, you could certainly go for thinner return edge (edit: on the sides). As below, probably more like 3 to 5mm. :-)

The video showing the popper method had elastic in all areas, except for the shoulder strap (back to chest plate). The video of mine is using all elastics. If you skip to 3:30 in this video, you’ll see what I mean about the hybrid - Velcro in places but with added elastics near the ankles.

I doubt it was Lucas at any stage, tbh. The costume makers would have just worked with what they have. Having the hooks on the elastic also adds more flexibility. Velcro is either attached or not - it has no give. Elastic adds movement and flex, just like the elastic throughout the rest of the armour. This is especially helpful if you try to navigate stairs in a TK. :-)

I doubt it was Lucas at any stage, tbh. The costume makers would have just worked with what they have. Having the hooks on the elastic also adds more flexibility. Velcro is either attached or not - it has no give. Elastic adds movement and flex, just like the elastic throughout the rest of the armour. This is especially helpful if you try to navigate stairs in a TK. :-)

Hiya, For me, I went for this route to be closer to the originals. My first build was a little bit more for costuming. This one was a mission to feel as close as possible to the originals (warts and all!) ;-) As you’ll see from my videos, I’ve really gone to town on the smaller details. But, that’s what’s three years of staring at the original suits will do to you. ;-) hehe Regarding the snaps, as long as they are quality snaps, single sets are usually adequate for most troopers. [emoji1303]

Depending on your preference, you might choose one or the other, or, you might choose a hybrid. For example, you might like the look of the original bracket system but want to reinforce with the “practical popper” method. Personally, I’ve run the practical popper method on my first suit for 18 troops and it held up perfectly. Here’s that method; Now, I’ve gone for the original method. So far, I really like it, however, only time will tell regarding any potential stress points : You could even just install the nuts and bolts but just have nothing on the other side, just to get that “original” look. [emoji1303]

You could round them, if you wish, however, that would be a less accurate route to take. Personally, I love to follow the original methods and aim for what we saw on screen, but that’s just my personal preference. If you did round them off, it will probably be raised as a query if you choose to apply for the higher levels.

Great to get some more entries here from our trooper brothers and sisters. [emoji1303] To catch you all up on my own story, since starting this thread back in 2018, I’ve switched jobs, had another child, built a LOT more helmets and another set of armor, started an ever growing stormtrooper based Facebook group, seen my YouTube channel grow in popularity, started building my C-3PO costume and plenty more besides. One of my highlights was being one of 16 UKG troopers on the blue carpet at The Rise of Skywalker European Premiere in London almost a year to the day. That was wonderful. Anyway, still checking the boards daily and helping where I can. Also now an “armourer” for the uk garrison, helping more troopers prepare for 501st clearance. Hope to see lots more posts added below. Come on, troopers - yelp is a little about you and spread the love. Best wishes Dan :-) Premiere C-3PO

Good thinking - leaving the shoulder bells until you can size them up against you when wearing your chest and back is a good idea. [emoji1303] Before you get to cutting and gluing your coverstrips, this video might be useful. :-)

Hey guys. What were you thinking? Whole new thread, or just boosting this one a little?

Welcome aboard, Tom. Great to have you join the FISD. [emoji1309] I’m a UK Garrison stormtrooper and armourer and we’ll be more than happy to help you on your journey, as will the global stormtrooper family here at the FISD. As you’ll be joining the 501st with the UK Garrison, I’d suggest you sign up on the UKGarrison.co.uk forum, too. When you choose your suit of armour, you can then start your own work in progress (WIP) thread and myself or another armourer will be assigned to help you through your build. Speaking of which, here’s a great place of information for the various armour makers out there. You’ll see many here are UK based, with others from around the world; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ The list above are tried and tested by troopers around the world. Personally, I’d highly recommend staying away from Jedi Robe, SDS (original stormtrooper) and TKUK. Here’s some tips of becoming a stormtrooper; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30456-how-to-join-the-501st-legion-as-an-imperial-stormtrooper-tk/ I won’t bombard you with more links at the moment. Take it step by step. Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. Best wishes Dan / CableGuy / TK42911

It’s believe that the photo from outside Shepperton Design Studios (that you posted above) was prior to the actual studios making changes to the helmets. Those mic tips were likely replaced by the studio for something a little better. For hero helmets, the inside wall were actually black, as was the metal mesh. The “nipple” at the back was white. For some outstanding background information and images, check out http://www.starwarshelmets.com/original-ANH-hero-Stormtrooper-armor-helmets.htm StarWarsHelmets.com was one of my most visited websites in my early days. It is JAM PACKED with information, most of which is well researched and accurate. Also, the FISD gallery is a truly wonderful resource. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/19-ottk-reference/ Here are some Hero helmets for reference; To my knowledge, the “white” on the rims and outside of the hovi-tips is NOT white paint. The hovi-tips are originally white (or close to it) and we’re then painted black. The areas of white are where the black paint has been scratched or rubbed off due to wear and tear. So, I’m my opinion, the best way to recreate this is to have a white hovi tip, paint it black, then gently weather the piece to reveal subtle amounts of the white beneath.

Congratulations, trooper. :-)

Good choice. :-) ANH vs ESB is just down to personal preference. Personally, my first image of Stormtroopers is the beginning of A New Hope when they burst into our lives. :-) In terms of the suit itself and the helmet, there are many differences to take into account. When you make your choice, be sure to follow the specific ANH or ESB version. :-)

Hey trooper, Sorry to hear the paint went a little south. Once it’s fully dry, you should be able to sand it down and have another go, if you wanted to. You’ve picked up a good deal on the DA Props helmet. I think they come with two sets of ears, so, if you wanted to, you could try trimming the ears a little more. As below, your current helmet has quite thick ears. When you look, you can see the intended trim lines on the ears (approximately marked in the photos). If you did trim them a little closer to the mould lines, you would lower the ears a little to better fit the helmet.

Sorry to hear this, Daniel. I hope to still see you around the boards here and there. Best wishes Dan :-)

Hey trooper, For me, I do an initial rough trim with lexan scissors, then fine tune with the Dremel and a sanding attachment. As below; ------------

Wow - what a superb improvement. Great job! :-)