themaninthesuitcase

I’ve not tweaked mine in a long time whilst trooping. As with others I figured out how loud I can get it before it feeds back and then marked that in the dial. All I do each troop it just dial it to that line and call it done.

In general that's just an assembly difference. The face plate is pulled separately from the cap and back. Depending on how the brow was trimmed and bolted up (and how rushed the build was) you get a number of different looks. This is further exacerbated by the fact the left image is a hero helmet and the right a (sandtrooper) stunt and one well know for a large gap. The hero face plates are different, but I've heard multiple explanations as to why. As for which is right? All of them. If you're building a hero you'll want no gap, a "move along" sand trooper, a big and lopsided one. Generic TK? probably somewhere in the middle but really it's up to you.

Most people I know who've used wireless, me included, have ended up back using a wired connection again. Admittedly not using iComm as that's not very common here but using a number of different options.

Welcome to the FISD, you are indeed in the correct place. Personally I wouldn't purchase from that seller. There's a fair options available to you depending on budget and needs. Your best off reading through these two threads and then if you have any futher question you can ask them and be more specific.

Right then time for some change requests on the nice new CRL! These are what I've been fed from the armourer team in my Garrison. 2nd Blaster needs changing to the pistol Cape has only one strap, currently says 2. Quick Silver Baton description is wrong - no circles, they are all rounded slots. "The Baton has a cut out sections centered 1/3rd from each end that is comprise of a three Rounded Slots which match the onscreen reference." Undersuit is not shiny for the "shorts", it should have leather or pleather type satin material. Oh and Davids ID is 19666 not 16714!

Really looking forwards to seeing this progress. You look to be doing really well so far!

@TK4205 @Soulart I have split out this dispute into the "Recasting Discussion" section of the forum. Both sale threads have been re-opened and are available in the on going sales section of the forum as before. Wyatt if you and Rhonda feel that there is grounds for a "recasting" claim please could you provide evidence of the claim. Without any evidence we are unable to progress with this matter. The DCOG team are aware that there was an issue raised in the past, but this was resolved at the time. We are not privy to the details of that discussion or any agreements that were reached at that time. If this is relevant to any claim made please provide the details of such an agreement. The DCOG team.

The tube stripes on mine were removed using Humbrol enamel thinners. They pretty much just wiped off!

Yeah that's on the wrong side. The holster for ANH sits on your left hip.

Several of the makers in the list will do black armour on request. As you’re in Holland try the UK makers first. RWA does black, not sure about TM. RS probably don’t.

I counter with, why do you assume they aren't? For all we know Disney is giving Anovos a massive amount of grief behind the scenes. They already pulled the sales from the parks.

No, if they were going to start shipping to customers in the next two months they would know by now as they'd already be loading up the containers to ship from china to the US. Shipping that many big boxes is going to take time.

Whilst it may seem excessive they aren't expensive and have proven to be handy to have on a few occasions. If you're not using it all the time a cheap one from HF or ebay will be more than fine.

Please make sure you read what you are allowed to do with the images

Looks like a Rubies blaster painted black. Other than the accuracy issues it will also be a bit small. Some garrisons may accept this for basic, some won't. Check with your GML if you're not sure.

For the part the film used armour had very little return if any on most edges. The notable exception being where they used the wire brackets to join the body sections. On my armour I've reduced most of my returns to about 3mm ish or less. The bigger returns reduce the amount of flex you can have in the armour and so tend to lead to cracks forming.

I also just run mine full power. The two fans are individually switched and normally one is plenty and means the battery lasts all day but occasionally I will run both.

Nice “shed” [emoji23] First step though, take that heat gun and put it away. It’s far too harsh for the ABS kit and all it will do is ruin what ever you point it at. As for the fitting, get everything rough trimmed then before fitting get your under suit and boots. They do make a surprising difference to the end fit. Once you have that all sorted it’s much easier to make valid sizing decisions.

No problem sir.

All done @gmrhodes13

@gmrhodes13 I’ve seen and hidden your posy as it’s got someone’s email in it. I’ll have a look tomorrow morning at a PC of no one else beats me to it. Do you have a username they used at all?

The basic 501st clearance is done by your Garrison GML. This gets you your tkid and means you can troop. For levels 2 (EIB) and 3 (Centurion) you apply here at the detachment. So yes you will need to “reapply” here but most pictures for EIB will generally be covered by what you used for basic. Have a look at the relevant CRL to see what exactly you need to show.

Done, they should be able to login now.

How was the con? I saw Jon Campling (Death eater in HP Deathly Hallows) tweeting about it going up as he's in Eastbourne. It was a bit of a trek so I didn't go but it's not that bad if it's a good event.

The traps will more or less wipe off with some enamel thinners. I used humbrol. The hard paint to remove is the vocoder which really wasn't needed in hindsight.