TK bondservnt

bab baba mumble... WOW!

what size?

I was wondering the same thing? do we have absolute proof that the thigh rivets are cap rivets? or were they just regular rivets with paint inside the center hole. many of the photos look like filled painted regular rivets!

the abs melt is so slight under heavy clamp pressure you can see the outline of the snap if you put glue on it and apply pressure. it depends upon how much glue, how hot it is in your area, and the pressure applied. if a person makes their tab large enough, and they only use a small amount of glue, then it happens less often. I know for sure that hips melts like butter with a snap and glue. it ruined an hips backpplate, which needs to be replaced. people who have used nylon webbing have experienced some snap pull out. and have had to replace them. I've used leather snap plates on my black armor, looks cool on the inside. not that I've trooped in the black armor yet, but it's something I have done.

your packs are nice and all... but what I guess I'd really like to see is a huge foam pack sculpted for the game version style and really really light. I'd like to see a pack that weighs less than 5 lbs. it would not have any compartments to open, completely non functional. no doors or extra weight. it would really be nice to get the frame, and thermos parts from a pack maker, and I'd have a go at sculpting some stuff up, and making a foam pack. how would we work up the dimensions of the pack from the render what scale would we use?

sabreforge has been marked as a bad seller on several forums. I met him at wondercon 10 and he was nice enough, and the sabers were nice enough. so I ordered, and waited right up until the paypal window for making a claim. I made a claim for refund 40 days after ordering. which he said would take only 2 weeks. almost 5 weeks later I had my refund.

buckethead should wear this version.

here's my take on the snap plate: this is for the dritz type of snap, the line 24 tandy is different after you set the snap add a rivet from the back -----------------

catwoman? batgirl?

actually in the whitespace between y and corner. it's really a shallow curve mark knows about this and we're working to set you up.

mark and I have discussed it in photos and screenshots in email. he most likely will need to send you a replacement. mark and I both agree that it's not correct and most likely a replacement is in order. you could mount it, and then when the replacement arrives you can switch it out!

you should start a CHIP IN for the dog! http://www.chipin.com/ I'll donate once you do!

when you put the armor on, with the belt there still is a gap? make sure the belt is as tight as possible!

I would ask for a replacement thigh power cell... that thing is cut way off.

the thigh power cell is way too much cut off. glad the belt was not trimmed. belt marks look perfect! your T Det clips look a little too long on the belt side. NICE WORK so far! fast!

nailed the mods! left hand on green.

be nice sven. ease back... ease back.

all my helmets are painted testors, and they seem to match the 'hand painted' decals I have. especially the ears. you've seen em in person there charles!~

+1 great work, mods will take no time, nothing wrong with the knee plate. BTW how did you glue that on? did you heat shape it?

you will notice how pale the humbrol colors really are. and stickers are fine for centurion.

the humbrol colors work out a little pale in my opinion compared to ap decals. I would go with testors 1138 for the frown. just make sure your temp is right when painting. your tubestripes look fine, they are aligned correctly!

interesting trim job on the thigh power cells. can I see photos of the thigh belt and the belt plastic? looks like a good trim job on that lid... closeups? have fun charles!

wwwwwow what a series of photos!

prop replicas need errors in order to replicate a prop with errors.

I think this fits the term idealized best