TK bondservnt

your biceps are fine. just put a strap of elastic from the bottom of the shoulder bell across it's bottom. then attach an elastic strap from the bell to the inside back of the bicep to hold it up above the elbow about an inch. this holds the shoulder bell tight to the arm, but with the bicep under... then you should strap with elastic from the inside of the bicep to the top corner of the forearm. this holds everything together... the arm should all be connected together.

new troopers rule! the ever expanding empire of plastic!

I have seen the saberforge hilts and blades in person. I even talked with him about panda's experience with dirt, and shavings, and no electronic sled. The owner says that he has changed his manufaturing process, and now offers soundboards from a different source. the main reason his blades are larger is because he makes the 1/8 wall to duel full contact with. I think that a crystal focus soundboard would work great from erv at plecterlabs. I think panda got his sabre from them a long time ago... I plan to order the trooper's blade from them, as I've seen it and it looks quite a bit like the MQ sabre from the paintings. he offers short and long blades... things do change... and panda, how does the sabre work these days with your replacement parts? if the custom sabre shop had a more stormtrooper type design I'd go for it... but for now it looks like sabreforge has the best stormtrooper blade.

tk4510 sells lens material good price...

I personally don't think you need to do anything. just open the eyes a little and finish that frown. the ears are always the hardest part to get flush. the best thing to remember is that the backs of the ears should be longer than the fronts for the lower parts. and when you're cutting out the upper ear, it's not a flat circle, it's a circle that's beveled on a curve. if you sand the caps perfectly flat they will stick up in the center when you mount them. if you leave the top of the ear and the base of the cap on a slight curve it will follow the round parts of the helmet better. after trimming 4 sets of ears for the four helmets I've built, it's very tough to get a flush ear cap. just remember it's all curves, not flats...

meeesa hate ewoks.

any chance we could have more information on that?

the undersuits look fine. the gloves are not correct, if you really wanted to understand accurate trooper gloves. they are just the black rubber gloves with some ribbing over the tips of the fingers. some rubber gloves of this type are grey/black, and you want the darker black ones. using glove liners works just fine with the rubber ones too... make your kits accurate and ditch the nomex gloves... those are just not right! flight gloves have that nasty leather panel... and they are THICK! ditch em!

you would get along just fine with ATA, AP, TM, TE2 or even RT/mod. RT mod is for really tall troopers, with really large chest and shoulders. if you're tall and skinny, you'd be swimming inside RT/mod. I personally would save my pennies and get the TM kit. longer thighs, and larger arms. best next to that would be AP. both are ABS kits and don't require painting. E-mail sent.

that does look great... no doubt.. I believe that paint makes hips stronger, and I've been considering not painting my black hips kit. but that would only be to keep it flat black, which looks really stealth... I guess a person can also use "future shine" as has been suggested by izzi on the spec ops board. or could polish and buff up... it might even be fun just to paint clear on the parts... but most times hips suits come in the mail with some pretty deep cuts from rubbing inside the box...

happy day pete... the doctor is party time!

do you have a screenshot of the torso extra rivets on a screen used suit? I've never seen that many rivets before?? Great looking build.

where can we get the rivets you use paul??

they all don't know about shoulder bell straps.

nobody should buy that m19... it's not real. the other one... looks legit!

screen caps galore on this post!

7/16 or 9/16???

the admins just have recovered from a series of web related problems... you should e-mail the webmaster/admins. they are getting busy...!

weird! I just searched for your username on the boards here, and it listed you as signing up in 07. then the listing changed, and shows you with 1 post. ??

I have strips of thinner ear tape for free.

best of luck boss... sounds like a PITA to me!

sounds like a database backup might hold the keys to all lost data?

interesting, it looks like the barrel shroud has less density in the vent spacing.

TK dueno says: Back of shins: 25mm finishing strips the front of the thighs at 20mm but the back of the shins and thighs should be larger than the fronts. ----- if you make the covering strips too large, and you trim the parts incorrectly you might end up with a strange looking set of parts. if you look at the screen used dimensions of the parts in question you will find several different types of trimming were used on the same parts.

on the blaster details, the front D ring is for the ROTJ e-11. the ESB E-11's 3 different types. 1. some ANH style ones. -usually without the scope counter and power cells. 2. some stunt versions with the greeblies. (snow troopers photos, promo photos.) 3 london prop store versions. (sure would like to see a screencap of the LPS version.)