TK bondservnt

then of course there's always the franken kit. mix and match the parts you need to fit your body type. (had to post this so close to harvest)

only thing I can see is that your shoulder strap white elastic needs to ride over the back of the strap, attaching the top of the back plate. you have it attaching the front plate on your left shoulder. the white elastic needs to be across the back of the strap at the top of the back plate look at the trooper on the right and you will see what I'm talking about. very very nice build!

that is a very nice interpretation of the video game look, while mixing in the existing pack elements! freakin' amazin!

I use a leather strap for my shoulder bells. then I attach it so that the bells are 1/2 inch or smaller with from the plastic part. I put the snap plates on the top of each bell, then the leather strap is attached just a little bit forward on the top of each of my arms. being mounted a little forward on your shoulders, the bells tend not to rotate backwards.

there are several ways to handle helmet interiors. first off is the star or clamshell shaped foam insert that you cut out and mount inside ANH and ESB helmets. there is the helmet liner/hardhat type for the ROTJ. or there is the custom/ do it yourself type which uses any kind of padding you can imagine. ----------- skydex helmet padding system: ------- random info: ------ and finally the screen used way: ---------- --------

I think open source has it's merits, but for a software designer who makes money selling their code, doesn't it make sense for them to protect their investment in training for several years to be able to write code at all? I mean it's one thing to give away your own take on some assembly of code that's already written in modules, but to give everything away for free is just not possible in the real world. look at how this "everything is free" society has become? my family was in the music business since 1952, and as SOON as the ability for pirates, and "recasters" surfaced in the music biz. an ENTIRE segment of the retail marketplace ceased to exist. when the CD burner, and mp3 filetype came out, that ENDED our ability to make a living. huge segments of people who actually feed their children, and make a living from knowing somthing that other's don't know are being replaced by concepts like: youtube: how can a videographer make money when everyone can film and produce video? this website alone eliminated video as a money making venture. nobody makes money filming anymore. (I know, that's what I decided to venture into after the CD was eliminated, another segment becomes obsolete) if you're a web designer then you know what I'm talking about here, myspace/facebook: how can a web designer who has studied several languages, and protocols going to make money selling websites, and advertising when myspace allowed everyone to become a designer? entire segments of training, and technical skills have been eliminated in the marketplace because formerly HOARDED information, and special contacts simply vanished in the name of "advancement" so as we near the end of the "secret" stormtrooper information, many members of the prop community can see the writing on the wall. I think that keeping special information to one self, is a way of protecting your investment in the ability to sell a product. for the makers of armor, having the holy grail of "prop replication" done to the level of rocket science should be respected for their understanding of a very esoteric subject. little things like the brand of boot, the size and shape of a set of rivets. the brand of a snap. these little details are important to the prop replicator/ armor salesman. if I want to understand and own all the little secrets, then maybe I should support the community and purchase that information from the vendor and be happy knowing that I've done the best I can to support that artist's way of offering information. all on a plate? yeah... eventually everything will come out in the open...

clamping pressure, and e-6000 and hips styrene plastic are very sensitive to the heat generated during the cure time for the glue. it does soften hips, if you apply a lot across the surface. when dry, e-6000 acts like a cross between epoxy, and rubber cement. it can be removed after it's cured. part of the reason why lot's of troopers use e-6000 is for it's flexibility under stress, and it's ability to be removed for a clean edge.

I have a resin one. pm sent

testors 1138 grey or humbrol paint from TK 4510

would be great to have a cobbler make up a few hundred in white.

your knee plate is on your left leg shin upside down. you will need to flip it around. on your right leg, you will have to move the power cells from the shin up to the thigh plate. your lower legs need those fine tuning elements to be properly fitted. otherwise it looks pretty good. now get out that rivet gun and drill and just move those parts around. check your screenshots again... good job so far...

nice job terry! pm sent.

for a cone shaped snap, it's an easy solution to make the stud hole a little larger, allowing the snap stud to fully pass though the tab, if it's a little tiny bit loose that's usually ok. when the snap tab is anvil/pliar attached to the tab, you can then flatten the bottom of the tab by hammering the snap stud on a flat surface, while it's seated in the tab. I also like to put a small piece of duct tape in a small area under the snap, to help keep glue from touching it. terry is right about using e6000 as a filler, it generates heat with that much application.

heat can be generated when E-6000 interacts with snaps. you have to make sure that your snap tabs are large enough to not allow glue to contact the metal parts of the snap when gluing. good building... happy troopers. I've noticed that both industrial velcro, and e 6000 can be removed after a while. if you live in a warm humid climate.

moving the finishing strips, and sanding should not be too hard if you used e 6000 it should just pull apart.

I think that the best solution is to let the armor stay as close to it's original shape as possible. if you can do that... then I think you've done your own sculpt that way... and if it fits better for you then you've won on all levels. good job on the build! your holster is really awesome dude, I almost didn't want to let it go!

good explanation daniel. the rubies kit is nothing more than a halloween costume. lacks the detail and accuracy of the types of kits you can find here.

I think the old pattern fits a sterling really well paul. I'm looking forward to seeing your version 2! lot's of times, like riveting says the holster cutout needs to change depending upon the blaster that is going into it. like steve/riveting says: " I found dimensions will change depending on what blaster you've got. if that helps? paper or plastic templates are your friend & save on the leather ltr. " it's just going to allow for many different types of magazine notch cutout? right paul? it will be great to see the next version!!!

those holsters are nice but wrong. try this: ---------- it's the cut at the top that everyone gets incorrect except for Troopermaster look at my signature, I make and sell them.

he probably didn't buy it? taxes and nobility provides armor and mutton, and wine.

that looks like a ROTJ e-11

well you know after anakin had that little problem with padme, you know... and that whole thing... made him a little nervous when a new Fem Vader sparks up some loo conversations. must be hard to gain the galaxy, and have to contemplate it with toilet self doubt.

my holster for sterlings would look good on that! thanks for taking my advice and getting a heavy duty holster! you ship tomorrow!

the pink vader has a nice chestplate... I like the outward points... the part in "her" hair is funny. and the scene in the loo is priceless...

looks pretty good... why is the helmet brow trim not on the lip of the forehead? it looks like the brow trim is glued on, not formed over the lip...