TK bondservnt

I think that the reason there are differences in helmets is because all the moulds are different. I don't personally think that the "master moulds" used to express the "TE" line are all from the same sources. they are scuplted casts based upon a generally used shape. there are large noticable differences from the ATA lid, and the AP lid. AP lids are very much the same, it's the assembly method that changes the overall 'look' to the bucket itself. I really like the AP version much better for it's shape. I guess now all I have to get is a GINO and a TM, and I have almost all the major makers.

there were several different types of Front and rear fittings for sight rails on the blasters in the films. some have the sight rail like rick330 and some have it like john danter's computerised drawing. The T Tracks always cover the hole itself almost completely, bending into the hole. some T Track installs are not done correctly because they don't fully bend to the edge of the hole and leave an open area in the hole, this is not the right way. but tracks that fully cover the hole, and bend into the hole are the right way. some sight rail installs have them going into the top hole, and some don't. on the installs where the sight rail goes into the top hole, the T Track stops one hole early.

put a tape measure on the faceplate and point out the vertical measurements. I have photos of the AP faceplate done this way. I'll dig em up and post them, then we can do a comparison. I also have the ATA faceplate too... so some side by sides will be shown here.

pretty good.

the most fun you can have packed in a brown box!

copy from the wiki article makes the point exactly! we were ordered not to him them! "" At one point Obi-Wan Kenobi even comments on their effectiveness to Luke Skywalker when the pair find the destroyed Jawa sandcrawler, saying "These blast-points... Only Imperial Stormtroopers are so precise." Despite this, stormtroopers appear to be incapable of seriously harming or indeed even hitting the film's protagonists, who would later dispatch many of them without ever receiving a scratch in return (a possible explanation given for that is that the stormtroopers were under orders not to hit the protagonists [3]).""

just following orders.

I put a lot of extra work into these modified plans, photos and extra stuff always go up on the web for free. the plans I'm selling are just for the cost of shipping and printing. I doubt very much that anyone will ever need them. kinda like those helmet manuals that some people didn't think were worth their cost. it's been a journey of several years to try to correct the problems I've seen in those excellent plans. I mean, what would you do if you didn't have the originals? I have a lot of respect for the doopy do's kit, it's very accurate!

anyone can build a blaster. it's a pvc pipe and some resin parts. add a simple to make aluminum scope rail and some 6/32 bolts. the doopy do's pipe build kit is fun. soon I'll have a rack of blasters ready for duty. here's my modified plans adding many missing details: you can get a free copy of the tube diagram Front and rear. these plans produce correctly length parts for the tube. they also add a lot of details missing from the layout plans for the tube. end cap lugs, bayonet lug, locations for grips, magazine well. total length correct for use with doopy do's kit. this plan set basically takes out that "blaster is too long" problem some can have on the rear of the gun.

this armor looks great. thanks for the positive thoughts there on that blaster. you're lucky to have the proper eagle logo on that thing too! hard to find! we'll be spec ops brothers pretty soon. my black kit is completed, just need to paint up the parts. really tough to think about painting it, I like it when it's flat black!

pinstripe tape is the way to go!

that site is ok... many people already know about it... some people consider it good information, and some other's don't. to each his own... I suppose.

the biceps don't need much of a "return" on them... you can just make a smooth transition. no problem.

I attach them to the ends directly from the end 2 belt squares. a chicago screw post helps to attach my belt, the drop box webbing, and the AB plate all together into one large package.

www.smooth-on.com has pigments for silicone. they have lot's of different pigments for silicones... anyone who says you can't paint something, will find that you in fact can paint it! ----

I mix model builder latex with acrylic paint. simple poster paint. mix in a plastic container a very small amount. and paint the handplates with the mixture.

I replace the snaps with screw posts. called chicago screws. they never come off, but you can completely remove it with a flathead screwdriver and with that kind of support it carries a lot more weight to the ab plate. using suspenders to hold up the AB plate usually are a must.

happy birthday tony!

it's usually the person's leg. the AP kit is not "hard to assemble" that's just a TM owner, or someone who's a perfectionist and who does not understand that the shins on the ORIGINAL suits didn't even line up. TM suits actually come assembled with a wonky shin, for accuracy's sake. but peter the stormtrooper doctor points out this problem area, partially because it's a challenge to assemble the shins, since they are confusing at first. peter fully explains the assembly of the shins, and peter is going for a "perfect" style of assembly, where even unseen and hard to see parts are in alignment beyond the need for the assembly of the costume itself. keep in mind that the original suits were FAR FAR from perfect in their alignment. so in a way... the mis alignment of shins is screen accurate!

should be able to carefully run a knife under the strip to cut under. sand any area, and novus polish back to shine.

that build should be fun. all you need after those parts is the sight rail aluminum, and a metal D ring.

19 and 3/8? uh... hmmm...

you need elastic straps, not webbing straps. the snaps all go on black 2" elastic. and there's some white 2" that some people use on their shoulder strap elastic. the only parts I'd use 'webbing' on are the parts that you don't want to flex?

I start with a pilot hole with a dremel, then I move to the wood 7/16" bit after that I use a dremel grinder to smooth it out. also if you have the correct size T Tracks you should not see any holes below them, as GINO's track completely covers them. I drill out the front, and rear holes only, adds a bit of strength. I only use 3 tools to do them. the key, really is to mill slowly with plastics. putting a lot of pressure, and speed is not the correct way, not like with drilling metals. it's more like drilling wood. that's why I use the 7/16" wood hole cutter bit. something like this:

it's just plastic. cut and sand. and cut and sand. paint. paint. wait. wait some more. no part of making painted armor is fast. wait. wait some more. ABS>? cut and sand and glue. done. did I say wait? no. just trim and glue and you're done. getting an ABS kit over a painted kit is always faster and longer lasting.