Jump to content

1970si

Member
  • Posts

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 1970si

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    CT
  • Interests
    GIjOE - original 12" 1964-1976

Standard Info

  • Name
    Jack

Recent Profile Visitors

774 profile views
  1. Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the EFX Collectibles Hero ANH Stormtrooper armor was ever produced? Thanks, j.
  2. Thanks for the info - have you guys ever seen the "ribbed" version on a stormtrooper in ANH? or only on the sandtrooper backpack?
  3. Hello, I was wondering if someone could answer a question about the thermal detonator white plate from ANH. I understand that the armor for the sandtroopers was the "first run" of armor made for ANH and the armor you see in all the other scenes (attack on the Blockade Run and the Death Star) was the "Second Run" of armor made. My question is how come the white plate used on the thermal detonators has ribs on the sides of the "Button" area when it was used on the sandtrooper backpacks but all the other shots (attack on the Blockade Run and the Death Star) it no longer has the large side ribs? Are the type used on the sandtrooper backpacks ever seen on the stormtrooper armor thermal detonators?
  4. Hey Karin, Did you ever finish this latex neck seal project? jack
  5. Hey Guys, I purchased this helmet from RS Prop Masters. It's an HDPE helmet that they built up and painted. It is # 35 of 100 that they made. Thanks, j
  6. If you wanted to make one from scatch - the main body looks like a modified WWII Beretta 38/44 or 38/49 Receiver with parts added on to it.
  7. Hey Karin, I was wondering how the neckseal was going?? thanks, j
  8. Hey Karin, If you think the ribs are hollow - would that not make sence for them to be hollow rubber tubes joined together? If you stacked the tubes on top of each other - joined the ends of the tubes together (1st sew line) then ran a needle through the tubes opposite the seam line - then you would have hollow rubber tubes that are joined together at 2 points (to keep them in line) and they would still be strechy (elastic) to get them over your head and cover the neck portion of the rubber neck seal. Or you could join them at 4 points (to keep the tubes in line and still be elastic enough to get them over your head and around the neck) - If you picture a wall clock - the 4 joining points would be 12 o'clock, 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock positions. The seam line joining the stacked rubber tubes could be at the 12 o'clock position. Then at the 3, 6, 9 o'clock positions you could run a kneedle and thread down through the tubes from top to bottom - to hold them in position and still have enough elasticity to got over your head and down around your neck covering the dry suit neckseal. The 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions where a kneedle and thread is run down throught the tubes to help keep them in position - would not be seen from a profile view - the only connection that would be visable from the pofile view would be the seam joining the 2 ends of the tube together at the 12 o'clock position. Don't know if that made sence how I expained it - a picture is worth 1000 words! j
  9. Hey John, You might be right - I don't know much about wet suits - I didn't even know that they have burn/rash stuff that you could wear underneath them. One thing though - what ever is underneath his chin seems to mold up towards his neck like molded latex would - fabric or spandex would start bunching down towards the ribs - I could definately be wrong - but that's what it looks like to me. one other thing about the ribs - if you look at each trooper in the picture - the ribs are not uniform at all - each troopers neck seal ribs look different - making me thing that these were all hand made and not a found part. j
  10. Again - if you have the book - you can see what I'm talking about alot more clearly than these pictures I've posted. j
×
×
  • Create New...