TK bondservnt

leave it long and flat, and use the baclava. I have just let it lay under the neckseal in back with no baclava and it lays down pretty well. also a good idea to use a little gel to keep it under control.

I believe that the M 19 was used in ANH and ESB for the E-11 it was used on the resin stunt in ESB as well as the standard e-11. usually the m 19 was not with the hengstler, as the hengstler itself was also not on all blasters in the first 2 films in the OT. the ESB london prop store version, as well as the resin cast version used by snowtroopers has the M19. take a look at the blaster photos in my signature. when you look at the EIB requirements it mentions "correct style scope" and has power cells and hengstler as 'must have' listings. it looks like there could be some re-thinking here on this area of the requirements. not all blasters in ANH, nor even in the hands of the principal actors always had those elements in place. handguard styles, and blaster configurations changed during different scenes in ANH

sadly that E bay blaster is incorrect. the doopy do's works pretty well, as I like to make that type.

photos of the situation always helps... and rick is also an acomplished AP builder. the shins can be a little tricky. on the original suits the shins also line up a little offset. if you use velcro to assemble the backs, then the pressure from that should align the parts just fine.

I used the copper wire from the ground on a standard white/black copper interior wire. wrapped it over a pipe and then shaped it to fit inside the E-11

leaf rake on top, master replica's resin copy on bottom. leaf rake unpainted:

I personally believe that hero hovie mix were indeed black on the inside. the variance from silver screen material, to the gold/silver tone of keith's tips to the black/silver interior of a hero hovie, makes complete sense to me. you can see that most of the mic tips are heavily weathered in most shots of original helmets... I think a black interior, with a silver screen for a hero tip is the best option.

the main reason you can't sit on a thick soft chair is because the chair makes it hard to sit without the armor pushing up. if you sit open leged, leaning slightly forwards, but sitting up you can manage it. the reasoning for taking off the thighs is that they make it impossible to bend your legs far enough to sit. at least for me at 5-11" 210 think short legs. tall torso... for me.

this is the final photostrip before shipment.

I use grey primer, flat black spray, flat dry brush for parkerized simulation. along with layers of brass, aluminum, steel and gloss black. finished off with a clear coat lightly sanded. ------------

here is a photostrip for the most recent build I've acomplished. from build to base coat.

hydrogen peroxide? oxy clean? and several other chemicals mixed together in a blender to form a paste. and it's a homebrew mixture? ok... if you do this to your armor, it might work fine on a computer case, or a transformers toy. but on armor that you're going to flex and wear? the mixture would have to be quite large to do on armor... imagine the quantity needed to make that paste! also, armor is much thinner than a computer case. photos of the results would be interesting to see...

nice job~!

I've trooped at the bar with the E-11, no problem. everyone wants to look it over... whenever you carry a blaster with a real scope, it gets more attention than the armor. and everyone wants to try on the helmet... it's a costume. and pirates, and axes and lightsabres are always fun. I live in a college town, so it's always understood when you have a stormtrooper helmet, with a blaster. only time I've ever been asked was at san francisco, where the policeman at the door thought it was real. (paint does wonders.) when I told him it was a solid plastic pipe, he was shocked to see that indeed it was. then he complimented me on it, and checked it over with admiration.

paint is your friend here! bleach on plastic? no way!

you won't crack it, but to sit down you usually have to take off the thighs... and sitting with the belt and T det usually just means that you can't sit on couches or soft chairs. sitting forward, and leaning forward is what you usually have to do.

put orange tape on the front, and carry it. no big deal. I would holster it, and then take it out for photos.

I have some sabrefreak T Track, and I've been using the rakes. I really like the rakes.

I like damian's thinking here. and I also think that events like conventions, are different than requested events, that is of course when a garrison is requested to an event such as a convention a rider, or contract should include: changing room. I don't personally see any problem with payment for parking, or tickets. but it is a nice gift to receive. all other aspects of the troop such as table rent would not be something that we'd pay for because we're not selling anything at the table. so that table would be considered a charity gift on the event organizer's budget. I think it also would be a good idea for garrisons to ask for a charity gift, and event elements that directly bring the charity element to the forefront- such as contests, raffles for star wars related toys. with all proceeds being announced at the 501st table with a "donations collected" sign showing the event's collection running total, with signs from the charity supported. I think having a donation total for the charity after every troop would be really cool! you know? like a thermometer sign?

you can see that the trim on the cod seems to be flapping. and the elastic strap holding on the handplate across the thumb.

I use a rivet to drive a hole through webbing/fabric/elastic, then I place the snap stud onto the rivet pin and push that assembly back though the part. the rivet pin acts as a guide for the snap stud to travel through the fabric/elastic. then with the stud set, I apply the pliars and the cap and clamp them together.

well, you probably wont have to paint an AM kit. so that will be a blessing.

this is a great file! now if there was only some way to make it sync with everyone elses mp3 player! ok people radio chatter com sync. "ok everybody, get ready to hit your mp3 play button on 3. one... two.... three....."

anyone who has stared at the promo photos long enough knows that this is close but not real. like everyone else says the boots are the give away. but you can also tell that it's not weathered the same. weathering is really tough to replicate! and some of the tells are in the small details. that suit is a really excellent replica!

the butt and join method is usually done by laying flat. you cut off 1/2 of the overlaps, and measure your total distance for the raised ridge of the part. (this needs to keep in mind your body size on some parts.) when you meet both parts together you can also use a "supporting strip" inside the armor part to support the butt join from the inside. this can be considered like an inside finishing strip. then when all 3 sections are joined, adding the finishing strip to the outside of the part makes the whole join stronger than simply using the overlap. using the trimmed part of one side of the part as the inside support strip allows the inside strip to exactly conform to the curves of the part. this makes the internal support sculpted to the part. don't throw away those 1/2 trimmed ridges! they are the inside support strip! then the outside strip makes it into a 3 layer join.