TK bondservnt

I have wet sanded most of the kit, and I'm just waiting for the correct temperatures to paint black and then paint clear over that. will take several days to do. I've been tacking it with rubbing alcohol.

this image looks oriented correctly. firing towards the bridge, as the door closes. one thing about cutting the knuckle curves: the cut seems to be knuckle cut at the bottom edge where it meets the glove, while the handplate's contour is kept str8. the knuckle cuts being on the bottom can be pretty easy to do actually. if you leave some latex out of the mould and let it fill up the edge of the mould, but taper the inside lower than the edge you would be able to cut with scissors a set of knuckle indentations on the thinner inner lip, created by leaving latex out of the mould and tapering it towards the edge. I'll try to post a couple of photos using my handplates as a guide...

we love winners around here!

I'm in the camp where you put your Tk number in the window.

even with the non cannon elements it's still blaster X!! sweet awesome envy!!! eh folks!

that scope is very interesting! a cross between the cannon, and the X... nice work ERV!!

one set of *AP armor. TK white ANH style one set of ATA armor.TX black extra belt and holster for ESB version TK extra belt and holster for ANH version. one ANH style blaster with real scope, and real gold metal socket hengstler. (solid resin and real parts) one ESB style blaster real APEX gun parts kit being built into my modular sterling demill, for both ESB and ANH style. ANH hero MRCE full mod helmet with ALL mods done, including 3 bump hero ears and grey smoke bubble lenses. ANH style AP helmet with all trims, keith hovies and green mylar lenses one way mirror film. ESB style AP helmet with all trims, keith hovies and green mylar lenses one way mirror film. TX ATA lid. TKC AP lid with weathering, and blue striping. TKC armor coming soon. Heavy Weapons pauldron, Mp 40 pouches set from zadock and new belt for HWT

WTB helmet thread? hmm...

for the smaller parts like the casing deflector, and the layoff barrel tip, and the bayonet lug, you can use small holes drilled into them and apply aluminum rivet pins into holes in the tube. then with e6000 again to complete the bond. before you primer those areas, you can add some model putty to create a stronger bond, over the glue, to add some thickness at the base of the join. then after primer and paint, a nice dull mattte coat of plastic paint in clear helps to give everything a layer of plastic over all these fragile parts, and you can pretty much trust it from there...

this is such sweet news!

sweet!

ah! finally a good clone boot!! I'll be wanting a couple of sets of these near the end of the year! size 11 usa. great job!

troopers shoot fine, they were ordered to miss their targets. now, the unemployed stormtroopers actually play rock, in a band... pretty cool!

I've used e-6000 and bolts with nuts. you can attach everything to the tube with 6/32 bolts just like for a helmet.

the thicker you applied the paint, the longer it will take to cure. make sure that the temperature is nominal, and just leave it hangin!

mark? some were glued? (Esb comes to mind with that black sticky glue) some were taped? anh right? some were on the cheek screws? some ESB, right? and then ROTJ lenses are glued in? right?

dremel is your buddy here...

price? PM me?

you are wanting the measurements for an ESB greeblie stunt set of parts? I can work up the examples for you with Tango D Fett's permission first? LMK PM me or answer here.

I wear silk, or cotton gloves inside rubber gloves, and it really helps comfort, lack of sweating, and ease of removal. if you choose cotton, then they will fit a little more snug.

looks like this lady is just exactly the kind of person we all should purchase from. I've made my own, I've purchased several pairs of hers... and now we have this excellent research to point "another finger" towards the altar of SCREEN ACCURACY!

AA describes the process for the above helmet and it was from a basic dome shape. AA's videos have some of these details

these look very close! nice interpretation

the bumpy texture part of the mould? wow!

it's just age and paint. just the paint reacting over all this time. and they were quickly repainted, so from 1976-1980 they sat in a box inside a wharehouse in california. so 2 paint jobs and 30 years of bad storage in a closet, or in the trunk of a car... it gets to be about 100d on some days in some parts of northern california. if the lid were in england all this time, then moisture and heat could make them look like this. hdpe could be pretty bumpy to start with, then add 2 paint sessions, then wait several years, then paint again. then you have 30 years of bad storage, and thus we have the glory of the bumpy hdpe lid! I personally believe that the hdpe and it's heat/forming was always a problem for AA. that is a major reason why the hero lids were ABS. AA was still refining his use of the different plastics. which produced different results.