TK bondservnt

just get the humbrol colors from mike. it's accurate, and easy to get. in fact he ships them to you! there is no mystery to the colors on the helmet.

shrinking blasters, blaster seeds... now all we need are some wooden princess leia seeds and we can call this woodchuck science!

color match is the main thing that you'll notice. photos really show the differences in colors as well, so it will all depend upon your own personal choice. I would say that you'll have much better luck with the same paint all over the armor. it's worth the wait!

bud... do more research. all the questions have already been answered!

have any of these for the HWT or the TKC? I'm really getting ready for both of those! awesome shots!

you can notch bend the front into the last vent hole, and put a 6/32 bolt and nut assembly all the way though the rear sight. it looks a lot better than the rear bolt, but some were attached exactly that way. the 6/32 bolts are usually available at the big home store.

the site has no information on the variations for ESB, of which there are 4, and they also don't detail the differences between ANH, ESB and ROTJ.

I'd have to suggest that you follow peter's tutorials for a detailed handling of each part. the whole thing that sped up my build was this simple thing: take a piece of plywood about 8" wide and 2 feet long. take a piece of 3/4" aluminum flat bar. 2 3" C clamps. 1 box cutter. 60 grit sheet sandpaper. lay the armor on the plywood. lay the aluminum bar over that on your line. clamp the aluminum bar, the armor and the plywood together firmly with the inside of the armor facing up, with the clamps touching the inside. cut along the aluminum bar 3x. remove the clamps. start the cut at one end with a small 1/4" cut at one end of your score cut. carefully bend and snap the plastic off from your cut. sand the edge slightly where you've cut, and slightly across the front surface where the finishing strip will go... say about 8mm for that on each side. save the cut off part for your "inside finishing strip." when you cut out your arms and legs you can use the first trim cut as the inside strip. if you've cut your first cut at the proper place your remaining trim parts can be used to make a very strong and flexible joint this way. clamp the cut off part to the inside of the part you just removed it from and instantly you have a strip that conforms exactly to the part you're preparing to glue up. after you have inside strips glued to one side of each join, you simply line up the parts and glue them together from using the inside strip as a glue base. then when your parts are joined, run a bead of plastic weld down the seam with the inner strip underneath. then when that 3rd step is completed you can simply cut out your finishing strips on the plywood and aluminum jig and then glue those down, over the top of the join, and inner strip. I then put white duct tape over the inner strip for a really clean looking interior!

22 years with a single animal is like watching a child with cancer... you KNOW you're gonna lose them... it's just a matter of how, and how long it's going to take! I can easy remember worrying about her 10 years ago... and she lasted strong for another 12 freakin' years. her last 4 days were the toughest. she's with the lord now... and it's still hard a week later. every day I think about her. so now the other animals in my life have started to take up the slack... my 3 year old male has been paying a lot of extra attention to me these last few days... with wondercon planned and paid for, at least I have one massive troop to attend!

if your thighs and shin tops meet, you don't really have to worry about return edges.

well bud. there are ton's of tutorials out there that describe and detail the different methods you're discussing. you should look all those elements up yourself, and build this thread into a source for all the elements you're describing. we have Gino Hdpe helmets that are actually the close "prop forgery" or "replication" style with the chipped paint not sticking to the beige plastic underneath, just as the stunt helmets were created in ANH. from the placement of the hovi tips, and their weathering, to the lens material, and then down to the assembly method- setting the brow height, and then the last detail is the ear and eye and frown trimming, which give each helmet it's "character" then you have the "hero" ANH style with it's different base material, i.e. ABS plastic instead of hdpe, it's different faceplate, assembly method and eye lens material. you can start with TK 4510's excellent photos, video tutorials and threads... the TE2 building thread is a great example. terry - AKA pandatrooper has added some excellent advice on building ABS helmets and such from different makers. there are excellent tutorials for all of these details in different parts of this website here, and you really could have a lot of work ahead of you to gather and present all of the material on one single thread. I'd say that you should develop a "directory" post in this thread with each style of helmet in photos, and then present the tutorial threads and videos inside each directory post. I have created all of my helmets with the same basic brow height, but I have varied the lens material, hovi tips and each of my helmets from ANH Hero, to ANH stunt, and then over to the ESB-hero style TX and finally my WIP TKC lid... all have the same basic elements, but with each there are different things that make them resemble the film type, the style and the weathering type.

I'd say that the masking templates available for sale are the best around!

score and snap, scissors and cutting blade. clamp a piece of aluminum 3/4" to the armor as a guide for cutting. dremel is far too slow, just hand sand the edges quickly with a couple of passes along the edge. you'll want to use tape and the inner overlap and finishing strip method for strength and security! white colored duct tape works really well to hold an inner finishing strip while glue dries. you can even use it to hold on the finishing strip glue just washes off with cold water and dishwashing soap.

MGC a copy of a copy... yep!

heck yeah brother! that's exactly why I make heavy plastic blasters! and I have all the original metal parts for the blaster. the counter, the scope. the apex kit. all I need now is the tube and the rebuild. almost there. maybe a TM original strap and I'll be good to go. I need to lose about 20lbs... maybe that'll help! carry the blaster that has weight! yeah!

sick! wow.

well folks. today is the sad day where I must announce that my wonderful companion feisty has been promoted to the special ops squad in the sky. hopefully she will find lot's of things to do in her missions. she will be missed. the best animal I've ever known.

The canvas belt is absolutely something you need to add to your fitting trials. it keeps everything together! flip your kidney plate around and add that and then just shorten all the connections a bit.

look for mould builder latex

some blur is just from camera movement, but I figured that it was better to show them for the content.

any comments?

any news of this?

This section is for showing how the TK number can be set, and will show the sight rail placement as well as the mounting plate and nut and bolt system you can install. templates and drawings coming very soon!

back of front sleeve showing bent brass clip. this bent brass clip is all that holds the front sleeve on. detail showing eagle logo and screw placements. note the brass screws with a nylon washer surrounding them. more of a detail shot showing the front case removal.

front clip detail with diode, set screw and cap. remove this assembly to see the front sleeve. detail showing clip screw front sleeve removed detail of front sleeve. front sleeve, with cutouts for eagle window.