TK bondservnt

thanks tom for confirming those dimensions... it's interesting that the doopy do's end cap perfectly fits on the original sterling end at 42mm. and when you get a 1.5 pipe you have to shave off about 3-4mm to get that on! the BBC plans fit very well for a slightly larger, and longer tube... so some care should be taken to get the dimensions correct. if you follow the BBC plans with a doopy do's kit you can end up with a blaster that's almost 1/2" too long!!!

clamp a metal ruler or a piece of aluminum to the armor. score the armor 2 times with the box cutter. take a pair of pliars and bend back and forth carefully. snap. one fast clean cut!! sand edge with 60 grit lightly. done! for curves, use a pair of short bladed scissors or a pair of tin snips!

if you remove too much material on the ear screw points they won't take the pressure and will pull though!!

did you measure them at their narrowest point? how about the dimension at the rear with the back butt cap removed? (that area is larger than the rest of the tube.) when ERV created his E-11x he had to reduce the plans by 10% across the width and kept the length the same. also the BBC plans incorrectly list the length of the blaster with the doopy do's kit. check out my signature for the free tube diagram, complete with end cap notches.

1.5 inches = 38.1 millimeters so if you sand off a MM you've got it@! I sell tubes milled with T Tracks installed: ---------- glad I made someone laugh on this topic!! hehe...

mod AM or sidegap AP or sidegap ATA your overall waist measure and your height are the factors to consider in armor. sidegap means that you'd have perfectly acceptable panels filling the gap at your waist.

nope.

more I have learned!

nice lid matt!

dont trim anything off of them, match em up, and put an inside shim and use filler to make them larger. then you can use a sa cover trim.

comedy is an art. amazing posts in here... milk... cookies... what next? some slave girls dancing? congratz for being there mason!

I have been very busy building holsters and blasters... my own armor always takes a second seat to other troopers! I am very happy to be a member in these locations! there have been lots of problems in my own personal life in the last few months that have taken almost all my personal time... yeah... I'd love to have your opinion on my armor as soon as it's completed. it's raining, and has not really been hot enough to get a clear coat to cure! when I get better weather for paint, we'll get er done! I am a clear coat, a set of dyed boots and a belt away from making the blackhole a reality! your advice on the pauldron, and pouches is excellent... I'll follow that advice!

score and snap is the fastest and most smooth way of cutting ABS. line everything up and score your basic cuts with a box cutter and a metal ruler. you can even clamp the ruler into place and cut against a table for accuracy. for all the curves, simply use short bladed scissors, or tin snips. I use Tin snips for most of the easy and simple cuts. all you need to do after that is run some 60 grit over the edge to make it round. fun and quick!

I always use them? here's a photo: -------

if you look really closely at the shapes of the chest, AB plate and arms and legs, you will find that the AM kit is much larger, and has a more block like appearance. the details of the chest plate are a usual give away on the make and model of armor... take a close look at all the parts on the AP kit, since that was cast from a hybrid of a tour suit and an actual ROTJ set of armor. again, chest plate is a key element to look closely at. there are many differences to rotj armor besides the "trim". many small details in all the parts. good thing about the AP kit is that all you have to really replace is the shoulder straps, hovie tips, hand plates boots, and belt cloth, to a webbing 2.5" getting an ROTJ helmet from CFO, or just the entire suit, if your body is small enough... AP armor/sans helmet or CFO armor! your choice...

I vote that it be sent to scootch and we can watch the video of him blasting it with a shotgun! then all the pieces can be eaten, just chew harder! or, even better yet, have it sent out to jeff and his wife can make a cake mould from it. priceless!

score and snap is a great way to speed up a build. you can even score curves with a steady box cutter. snap! and then follow with a light edge sand by hand and you're ready to glue that sucker up! nice job so far...

looking good!

I really think the brow is plenty high enough...

I'd say that after looking at your photo, you'd probably like the Armor T shirt method with suspenders. that helps to keep everything lined up, and tight for your body shape. putting the side gap straps on the chest/back up higher like paul said is exactly what you should do!

the gap is screen accurate, but that one is just a little larger than most usually have it.

best to you sir!

great example of all the BEST T TRACK used on high end props! having a rubber feel is not accurate and for making a prop the best it can be, there should be no change in the types of materials used. but that's obviously my simple opinion. I would always want to go with the best I can find... I have the sabrefreak T Track, and it's amazing to think that I might have purchased the incorrect type. and I must say that sabrefreak was excellent to deal with.

I think that the forearms look just fine! great suit!

pass this one through!