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TK bondservnt

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Everything posted by TK bondservnt

  1. TK bondservnt
    voted
  2. TK bondservnt
    all it needs is bullets and blank firing caps.
  3. TK bondservnt
    7 inches for the AP pipe, some have 7.5
  4. TK bondservnt
    ap thighs are not mis-aligned. it's all in how you trim them. ap thighs are aligned at the top, and then on the sniper knee side, it's in the butt join trim and the layout that makes them work. if you didn't know to align from the top, then the sniper side thigh can be tough to get right! it's also in the width of the trimm at the center of the thigh in question here. the overlaping parts must be cut correctly to get the right look. there are no trim lines to follow, so it can be tricky!
  5. TK bondservnt
    I have both ATA and AP kits. the ATA has a smaller AB plate, smaller belt and smaller arms than the AP. the AP has re-engineered the forearms, and has very screen accurate parts for the chest and back and AB. the ATA has re-engineered the arms for bicep and forearm to replicate the Handedness of movie grade suits. both the AP and ATA are considered TE lineage, and both makers sell ABS kits. it's all in how you trim and strap!
  6. TK bondservnt
    sick!
  7. TK bondservnt
    I would not approve a counter with the wrong details. the legion does not accept "close enough" as a basis for costuming. tyler, perhaps you should consider the accuracy standpoint we're establishing here.
  8. TK bondservnt
    paint it according to a helmet on starwarshelmets.
  9. TK bondservnt
    great thread andy! you asked about paint.. ok... so the first thing I'd do with the paint job is to prime grey. then I'd paint the assembly in flat black for an e-11 then I'd sand down to the real silver details on the end caps to match. if wires were to be attached at the rear, then you'd have to solder them to the rear cap.
  10. TK bondservnt
    I used hillman axel caps for the ends of the larger capacitors. this is all thanks to blastmaster's input!
  11. TK bondservnt
    I think they suck... but they're mine... so I can be negative! haha! sure, it's just a model I made up today... hack away at the imperfections if you'd like! I did a thread on the materials and dimensions of the model concepts that 'blastmaster' shared with me in the past. the baseplate template, the brass rod from lowes, the nut and bolt combination from hobby store and some patient dremel, tin snip and stone dremel grinder and I'm done. I had the axel caps drilled out by a machinist since I didn't have the right tools for the job. if you want dimensions and a parts list, I have kits available for sale in the sale area. the fronts of the center 2 caps have rivet pins glued in place for the cap pins! it took me about 2 hours to put this together! E-6000 glue to the rescue again! this photo shows a different set, with shorter center caps, and no wires into the baseplate.
  12. TK bondservnt
    I have finally started making these. after some wonderful work that troopers have done, I put together this pair today for a blaster build I'm working on. I'm working hard to make more of these! of course it's not as cool as I'd make them next time! changes to the top of the frame, perhaps even adding the center cap. more detail for the front of the center caps thanks to all who have shared data on this most intricate part!
  13. TK bondservnt
    I have finally started making these. after some wonderful work that troopers have done, I put together this pair today for a blaster build I'm working on. I'm working hard to make more of these!
  14. TK bondservnt
    I'm in the tantive IV camp! dirt!
  15. TK bondservnt
    wow!
  16. TK bondservnt
    normally a counter should have 6 white digits on a black background. but some counters have 6 digits with yellow numbers on the last 2 digits on the right hand side.
  17. TK bondservnt
    I have a metal socket hengstler counter. I've posted images of it previously. I'll work up some measures and post it on the photos. Left facing side front showing diode, clips and set screw for the clips. 3/4 view showing case screws and overall profile. rear case removed showing numbers wheel, reset button, and wheel platen rear case removed more detail of the rear case
  18. TK bondservnt
    sand the back side of the bolt where you won't see it inside the tube, and then it will fit. I also put a length of PVC inside the bolt for the inner front barrel. 3/4" fits inside the bolt. then I use a piece of 1 1/4" pvc for the rear part of the bolt and sculpt the detail for the breech blade.
  19. TK bondservnt
    I'm really liking this thread~! and I was just noticing that the RCA style plug on the landspeeder photos has a shield where the RCA would slide around the outside of the cap, while the inner part is male, and the wire plugged into it would be a female plug. if this system is a radar system then that would explain the need for a monitor out, which this could be a CCTV out to a tube television style monitor? perhaps when we get more data we'll know! also on parsing the capacitors you have to look for the % sign! it's on there!~
  20. TK bondservnt
    I think one wire is green and the other is red.
  21. TK bondservnt
    what brand of paint did it remove? and you're using HIPS armor on this? would be cool to know the types of paint this can remove? thanks for sharing this.
  22. TK bondservnt
    I was asking about the dimensions of the 3 inner capacitors, the length of the larger longer ones matches the scale russ rep has. can you supply a dimension for the smaller center cap's? the part shown above? which have wires going into the baseplate? if you have the correct center capacitors, then we can scale the rest of the parts. this is a great thread, since I'm making my run of power cells later this month!
  23. TK bondservnt
    i think you have nailed it! the center 3 do appear to extend past the bracket at the rear! and hopefully this is the layout of the cap's awesome work! and this photo and the other comparison photo seem to have NAILED the layout! as for the coax description- I'd like to offer that the RCA style plug is more resembling the plug, and that it's not an AV signal carrier like for a television plug. again AWESOME WORK! so what's the length and diameter of the part?
  24. TK bondservnt
    some of the aspects you mention are the tube sockets "squarish holes" this would be the tube element of the amp. the power cells on a blaster are all capacitors in the chain. the 2 larger capacitors, with the 3 or possibly 2 capacitors between them is the part that's placed on top of the e-11 the squarish holes would have somthing "like" this plugged in. but it's an audio tube. not just a transistor
  25. TK bondservnt
    in this photo you can almost see the ratings on the center capacitors: remember the data I have comes from deckard's research, and I'm using photos from this thread, the blog and other sources to share information. I'm not claiming any of this data to be my own research. also if you look at the photo below it looks like all 3 might be on this blaster. see the shadows? are there 3 capacitors between the larger ones? another photo from a member suggesting the same aspect. and this shot shows horizontal scale. so on the top of the mag well we have the magazine release and then in front of that the baseplate for the power cells. I believe the template for the baseplate, and the cells that sskunky, synaptyx and darkside sithlord have worked up is EXTREMELY accurate. print image at 300dpi. this template when mounted on a sterling is a perfect fit. 32mm horizontal length along the magazine well.
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