TK bondservnt

much respect. sorry for the situation at hand. you know we're all thinking of you at this time.

it looks great! a dowel would work fine!

interesting use of a laser cutter.

if you're going for screen accuracy just get jesse's fully built TD. it's aces!

those look like recasts of the LTD edition. the vocoder is wrong, ears are too wide, frown is incorrect even for a hero lid, which this attempts to replicate. don't buy it! the price is way way too high! the mic tips are also incorrect.

great job! only minor crtiques. rear spring is too many loops and should be black. front inner barrel should continue all the way to the tip. scope is mounted just about 1/2" from it's proper location just a tad forward. all in all these observations don't detract from the awesomeness that is compared to the hasbro! again... SWEET job on the blaster there julie!

after a long hiatus on the black armor I clear coated the following parts: chest and back abdomen / cod kidney and butt plates belt, thigh power cell and sniper knee shoulder bells and biceps tomorrow is legs forearms and lid. boots are all ready and everything is almost ready to test fit and shoot photos for halloween. I think I'm gonna troop it this year for the 31.

I use a leather strap. I also use webbing instead of elastic for the shoulder bridges. this keeps the chest and back solid at the top, with the shoulders not moving. this hides the strapping and snaps completely. if you use elastic then the shoulders move around and your chest and back flex weird when you move. I like to keep the shoulder bells attached to the biceps which causes the shoulder bell to stay rotated forward keeping the shoulders in place. nothing worse looking than a trooper with flared shoulder bells.

I use snaps and the pliar that match. and you have to really press HARD. dritz snaps seem to work fine with a tool. jo-ann's sells em. trick is, if your snaps are heavy duty then you need to fully compress them. the join should lay flat. the hammer and anvil method didn't work for me, and I wasted a lot of bent or crooked snaps! you can also make the elastic straps just a little longer and attach velcro to the end with a rivet. this way the strap has a snap and a velcro tip. a great combination!

it's an AP all right. eargaps at the rear are huge!

it looks like ray ray is not a 501 member yet. but for other members who are approved... there is quite a large selection of loops out there.

I would avoid polishing any of the decal or painted areas.

in the usa you can own a demill sterling. in canada you cannot. a demill sterling has a plug welded into the receiver behind the bolt. not allowing the gun to chamber a round. the bolt must not be able to cycle though a full firing motion. the magazine on a sterling needs to be cut down before entering the usa. unique canes and IMa guns have sterlings available in the USA in the demill configuration.

nice job~ paint the grips gloss black and the body with the hammered and you've got it!~ the bolt should be a gunmetal grey with the stripe being a little darker grey steel. silver details on the grips/trigger should be gunmetal. a sterling should not have a glossy finish. except for the grips. I usually put clear flat matte over the body and clear gloss over the grips for extra strength to the paint.

AM is for large people ATA is for smaller people. 5'9" is better for a smaller kit like the ATA but you'll need to shim the sidegaps at the torso for EIB status, if you're shooting for that.

hmm.. sculpting fibreglass, bondo and paint. and that's gonna be cheaper than a new set of thighs? good luck!

only an arm. you need legs to troop. well, at least one! I know a guy who makes AP armor for people. snaps and elastic. not a bad deal.

I don't personally believe that anyone in this costuming group would be willing to part with their hard earned and masterfully created replica for any price during the high point of the costuming season. I personally would not even let some people touch my helmet or blaster. imagine someone dropping a real scope and watching 300$ worth of glass lenses spread across the asphalt. this question comes up more often than one might think! since you're in canada you should contact the maker ABS80 or AP on these boards he has a new batch of armor ready and could sell you a kit in canada pretty fast.

your cover strips should be 15mm keep em small and it will look good! you can trim as much from the inside of the elbow as you need. remove the return on the inside of the elbow, and you can even shorten the forearm at the elbow inside. remove all wrist return. keep the return at the outside of the elbow, about 1/8" keep it pretty wide. it looks more accurate.

I like em! angelus leather paints with gloss clear sealer does the trick!

6 3/2" brass x 1 1/4L slotted flat head. I find them at lowes in the specalty hardware section.

cool to see a bar graph for the year!

u need new ones. period. sorry to say! but those can't be approved.

look for ATA armor build threads and follow along.

a birhday! woot!