TK bondservnt

more comments from the original blog: "That makes sense, the shop always had big old radios and "portable" amps for musicians which were big things. They had those other amps that went between a record deck and speakers too, I think marshalls were going well by then ?"

E is not a coax plug. it's an audio plug. it clearly resembles a shielded audio plug. remember... I'm 50 years old and it's not 70's or 80's electronics we're dealing with. this is TUBE powered old school high voltage audio amplification. coax would have a smaller center pin, and would not have the negative shield around it.

I think that those electronic components that you're showing for the 3 units may be what is listed. it's possible that all three units are present on the blaster. is the scale correct on these? from what I see it looks like they might be a little too large. the parts that we're all looking at come from a tube audio amplifier, which explains the series of tubes, resistors, capacitors and such. they are all in a line on the amp because these were reported to be stage amps for multi channel systems. B is what we're really interested in ! the suggested center cells below are way too long! russ has his scales correct! you can't fault russ rep's scale... as this also must be in scale with the top of the magazine well on the sterling. the capacitors are the correct type, just too long! you can clearly see that rus rep has his scales correct when you look at the images above it.

luis. you have some interesting information: but meamine foam products are a co polymer and they do leave a residue. here is the WIKI which shows more information on the micro fine sandpaper aspects, and the CHEMICAL residue which has metallic co polymers! quote: " Melamine foam is a foam-like material consisting of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer. The foam is manufactured in Germany by BASF under the name "Basotect". It has been used for over 20 years as insulation for pipes and ductwork, and has a long history as a soundproofing material for studios, sound stages, auditoriums, and the like. The low smoke and flame properties of melamine foam prevent it from being a fire hazard[citation needed]. Contents [hide] 1 As a cleaner 2 See also 3 References 4 External links [edit] As a cleaner In the early 21st century it was discovered that melamine foam was an effective abrasive cleaner.[citation needed] The open cell foam is microporous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the object being cleaned. On a larger scale the material feels soft. Because the bubbles interconnect, its structure is more like a maze of fiberglass strands, when compared to the array of separate bubbles in a material such as expanded polystyrene foam (for example, Styrofoam). Rubbing with a slightly moistened foam may remove otherwise "uncleanable" external markings from surfaces. For example, it can remove crayon, magic marker, and grease from painted walls, wood finishings, plastic-adhering paints from treated wooden tables, adhesive residue, and grime from hub caps[citation needed]. If the surface being cleaned is not sufficiently hard, it may be finely scratched by the melamine material. The foam wears away, rather like a pencil eraser, leaving behind a slight residue which can be rinsed off. Melamine foam for cleaning uses is supplied by several companies under brand names such as: Mr. Clean Magic Eraser 3M Scotch Brite Easy Erasing Pad Nano Sponge Coralite Ultimate Sponge and generically as a "dirt eraser". " end quote so do you want to fine sand your ABS armor with a sodium based polymer? sodium is a metallic salt bonded to the polymer. you'd be leaving a bisulfate polymer to react with a butyl polymer inside the abs. not a good chemical reaction when added with water. you know, most water has metal in it? right?

I would not use "magic eraser" as it possibly has solvent type cleaning agents. even soap can have metals in it, and those metals get left behind and can yellow armor. how many of you have had armor for 4-5 years with no yellowing? trooperbay sells 8oz bottles of novus 2. works great!

that is a lot bigger than the template I put up from the old board threads!

nice job for a custom!

where'd ya get that one jesse.

you have to be careful of car polishes they can contribute to rust metals embedding into the surface. novus number one- clean and shine.

now I have TK ESB, ANH hero, Stunt and TX versions. The TkC is soon on the horizon as well.

russrep is one of the original makers of machined cells. the goal of my cells is to up the bar.

ok... esb looks great... but the rotj? hmmm... I have to say that you do great work... it's all in the details right?

ok. the ROTJ looks nice enough. but it has the sterling bolt? and I don't see the ESB or ANH versions? if you have the sterling base for the ROTJ version shouldn't it be the other version bolt and handle? it's not supposed to be the sterling bolt handle, folding stock and magazine well. the sight rail, scope and front sight and D ring look fine? otherwise I don't see why you're using the sterling as a base for the ROTJ? it's supposed to be the Machine Gun Company "replica" of the sterling. which has the MGC bolt, handle, grips, trigger, trigger guard, front sight, scope sight rail and other details that you ALMOST have correct but the only flaw is the lack of the MGC version of the 'sterling' even the end cap you're using is not the MGC version, it's the incorrect sterling variant for the ROTJ? close.

on an ROTJ style suit you can have a strap for all these locations: from shoulder strap to bell from shoulder bell to bicep on the inside holding the bicep vertically from shoulder bell midway to shoulder bell midway ABOVE the bicep- as the CRL states "across the biceps" photos have been shown on ROTJ troopers with a bicep strap above the bicep armor laying across the undersuit.

I am in the process of making these with the help of a machinist. metal parts will come out of the shop.

no worries... just need all data to be clear!~ tk2392 reporting back to post.

this photo clearly shows 3 adjustable capacitors- I personally believe that they cut the center top one off for the e-11's.

it's not my blog...The owner's name might be "deckard" I'm just passing on the data. the photos are larger from the blog to show detail.

remember the information posted above is from a blog discussion on a person's e-11 if you follow the link you can read his blog.

free bump

I'm going to have bring back some very old photos of this part. sterling conversion blog this post is copied from the above location. I don't know if anyone knows the TRUE origins of the cylinders that mount on top of the magazine well, but I would love to hear it if you know! I did some research and discovered a few images of the cylinders I was trying to identify, in case anyone else has a brainstorm, or knows vacuum tube amplifiers from the 60s and 70s: The ones from the top of the Landspeeder, shown below also, are the same: First, 2 pics from a screen-used E-11: Then, the top of the Mouse Droid: The Landspeeder hood showing the same tubes: I actually made a pretty decent breakthrough while emailing with Paul Harrison from Elstree Studios, London (One of the men who worked on building the Landspeeders and Mouse Droids for ANH). Here is what he had to say: Hi, We built the originals but the art department did a lot of the dressing up. Most greeblie parts came from Elstree Electrical, which was an old store on the high street that had old oscilloscopes, valve radios etc. But those parts I think were just spark plugs with the porcelain knocked off with tender tap from a hammer! We helped John Stears on the mouse droids too, we had it running around the workshop, based on a Datsun 280 RC sports car from what I remember. I think it was old valves on there. Most glass bits were broken off as we knew they wouldnt survive shipping, it was easier to remove them and repaint. Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul Then I just went online searching for valve radios and found a PDF schematic for a RCA Victor Radiolette R-5 and found this: I actually made a pretty decent breakthrough while emailing with Paul Harrison from Elstree Studios, London (One of the men who worked on building the Landspeeders and Mouse Droids for ANH). EDIT: added text from blog RE; electrical conversation with elstree employee regarding power cells Here is what he had to say: Hi, We built the originals but the art department did a lot of the dressing up. Most greeblie parts came from Elstree Electrical, which was an old store on the high street that had old oscilloscopes, valve radios etc. But those parts I think were just spark plugs with the porcelain knocked off with tender tap from a hammer! We helped John Stears on the mouse droids too, we had it running around the workshop, based on a Datsun 280 RC sports car from what I remember. I think it was old valves on there. Most glass bits were broken off as we knew they wouldnt survive shipping, it was easier to remove them and repaint. Hope this helps, Cheers, Paul I figured this blog element fit nicely here...

you can try rotating the thighs just a little outwards so that the points swivel outwards on your body when walking. if you align them in the middle then the points hit the hip. just rotate the strapping location a little more outwards and that should help. don't change the top of the thigh's look, it will ruin the shape.

I doubt ace hardware is located in the UK. the other best way is to go to a local hardware with the scope and screws and have them find a match?

I usually use a finishing strip cut into rectangles. I use dritz heavy duty snaps and the snap tool pliars that match it. if you use tandy snaps then you need to purchase the tandy pliars that match those. using the anvil method sometimes can bend a snap incorrectly and you can end up wasting snaps. you should lightly sand the bottom of the plate, and the area of your armor, then wipe with a soft cloth and some water to remove the dust from sanding. then place a small piece of white duct tape over the back of the metal part of the snap plate. this is what I use for all the internal strapping that is unseen inside the suit. think of a snap plate being a circle inside a rectangle with about 1/16" wider than a snap. the cod connection, is a different size and should be smaller jeans style snaps. you can use a plastic "for sale" sign and just sand off the ink for the glue down side and leave the white back for the show side of the snap plate. when I'm assembling snap elastics I take the cap part of the snap and the elastic, then I run a large rivet stem though the elastic, then I put the cap onto the stem. then I push the cap though with the rivet pin as a guide. then I push the elastic down with the ring part of the cap. pliar shut and then repeat for the other side of the elastic strap. then I melt the ends of the elastic to keep them from unraveling.