TK bondservnt

TK units were ordered to allow the rebels to escape so that the homing beacon aboard their ship would lead lord vader to the rebel base. TK-232 and TK 421 were ordered to scan the ship, and the emperor and lord vader planned the capture since vader felt ben kenobi's presence. TK units were ordered to shoot the walls and floor to push the rebels back towards their ship. the docking bay was left un-attended

the key to snaps is not too much tension on the strap. also it's possible to add velcro to a point on the strap to help hold it in place. I use rivets on velcro on my elastics.

looks pretty good. only question I'd have is about the holster's cutout? that looks a little strange,... and the thermal detonator clips could use an upgrade?

some of the bapty work was interesting, one example is the london prop store version which I believe was put together by some batpy research. they got a few details wrong on that blaster. so do we still have the center capacitors available for purchase around here somewhere?

the top is wider, and on the original suits there is no return left on the BOTTOM of the part, because it's cut off from the butt plate. so the top should have a curved return that follows the muscle shaped curves. and the bottom of the kidney plate should have no return. as well the top of the butt plate should have no return to match the bottom of the kidney. as if the two parts were cut from each other, instead of separate parts. I'll post a photo showing what I mean later on tonight.

only problem is the lack of a motorcycle helmet. the domes provided are not for a motorcycle. says "EFX" helmets shown.

WOW!~

I'd say that the 3 center caps should extend past the back plate so that the scale in front has a few MM open space before the wires enter the baseplate. the coils of wire are linked in series attaching to the body of the hengstler below the pins then 4 coils of wire around a pencil, then running in series to the outside. look how the path goes from inside to outside? the front of the inside wire curls around to the back outside cap, then coils on the outside from the front going backwards to the outside mounting location on the hengstler. so the way I see it:: inside from hengstler coil forward 4 loops. curve to outside attaching to outboard cap rear. end of wire (green insulation) coil forward 4 loops back to the mounting point on the hengstler. (red wire insulation) silver blobs of solder at hengstler mounting points and on back of outboard capacitor.

I used several coats of paint on my boots taking a pair of TKboots and painted them black for my TX. 3 coats of angelus paint and 4 coats of sealer. applied with a small brush near the sole, and then with a sponge for the larger areas. angelus paints are the best!

a working L2A3 replica is nothing like any of the other weapon replicas they have on site. it would be great to have an accurate replica out there. I wrote on the form asking for builds as well.

I have resin casts of a scuipt from TANGO D' FETT they look spot on. would you like measures of that?

sall good

I guess you're just "thinking out loud" around here. have fun with your build!

you know boss, the deact is going to WIN over the MR in every aspect!

nice one mathias! beat me to that link!

I have to say that the trooperbay hovies are instant perfect replicas out of the box. you have to assemble the ata ones, and the screen is not as accurate. I'd think that the standard stunt anh decals for it should work fine.

take your time and enjoy the build!~

the AP is different from the ata. I have both and have made 2 ata and about 6 or 7 ap kits. the ata is different in the arms, having a handed design for left and right forearms and biceps. the ata has been around for a while and the maker produces a good product. the helmet is a little larger at the neck than the ap. I am personally a little biased towards the AP. the ATA abs kit is a very good buy, and you won't lose anything by going ata all the way. don't be tempted to mis match a helmet with another set of armor. I'm glad you're not going that way. I like the AP belt a lot better than the ata, and I like the arms on the ata for accuracy standpoints. the kits both have their merits and their critics. I have both.. so that says they fit my needs for white and black armor quite well. the ATA kits I've made- one white and one black. I'm making tons and tons of ap kits. I have ANH ESB HWT TKC all using the AP kit as the base. my blackhole trooper is an ATA kit.

I can sit with the thighs off. otherwise its pain in motion! did anyone else but me? ever notice that it's painful to wear armor for longer than 5-6 hours?

you will just barely fit into AP ATA styles of armor. any of the SA armors like AP ATA TM are all sized for about 24" thighs and 19" calves on your AB and kidney plates you'll most likely need a shim. if you have a 38"-40" waist you're gonna look like me in armor. take a look at my shimmed AP armor photos in my signature. you'll have to shorten the top of the AB plate, raise the chest and cut out the neck a little more for size and comfort, its all in how you assemble the chest and AB to make it look more proportioned for your size. then you'd want to shorten the thigh tops just a little, and then take about 1" off the bottom of the shins. you would not go wrong with an ATA abs kit, or the full AP kit. they both can be made to fit you.

I'm really into norwegian and swedish metal.

BC RICH! I have an NT warlock floyd rose, and a KKV kahler.

I was simply saying that glue helps to keep it on. don't let anyone fool you. the neck trim to look it's best should be glued on at certain key points. there is some idea that pressure itself keeps neck trim on. and with the design of the helmet at the ears, and at the front contours of the tubes near the hovie mix tips, there is a lot of curves that won't lay flat unless you use glue.

he will send a replacement. his service is top notch. don't cut any of it off... and use rubber cement at the ears and front of the tubes.

get a set of sport glasses like basketball players wear. soft frame. wear those inside your lid. they are called zoom RX LINK with prescription upload.