TK bondservnt

I see a couple of things: the elastic is folded over your hook mike. the finishing strip at the back of the shin looks like it could be shorter at the top as well. perhaps without the folds of elastic the hooks would lay flatter? and with a more flush strip everything might stay closer together>? those don't look that bad? how do they look with your leg inside...

one way is to purchase another belt plastic and caps from andrew, this way you can safely attach another belt using chicago screws.

post saved for content. post will contain brazing photos, pre assembly and testing photos with switch installations. prep, painting and final assembly photos. videos will also be made. I have a plan to include a rumble motor as a fan to blow smoke out the barrel when the blastercore fires! here's a hint of the device I plan to use: it's a smoke ring toy! http://www.zerotoys.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MBNW

post saved for content blastercore, leds, magnets, hall sensors, blastercore extention board, wires, batteries, battery pack, charging system and connectors!

here are the original parts for scope and counter. thanks to andy and marv! next photos will show the blastercore and electronics when they arrive!

This thread will contain my buildup photos of the process I'm using to create the e-11 with all original parts. I've started up the entire build with help from my local machinist, blaster hardcore parts sellers on this board, andy and marv are mostly responsible for my scope and hengstler. Erv from plecter labs has his new blastercore v.4 on the way to me. here's a series of photos showing the parts in pre- assembly: the tube started out like this: from HERE cut down mag and magwell preped. magazine detail rear end cap detail: note how I'm leaving the parts connected to assure proper alignment when braized to the end of the tube. detail showing bolt and cocking channel with parts installed. folding stock trunion and trigger group preped for brazing. overall parts layout. note the uncut magazine along with the cut down one.

I'm in the Icomm aker camp!

make your straps longer where the plates come off... you're probably putting too much tension on the elastics. just a 1/2" helps a lot!

comfort is the key. all you don't want are wrinkles and sagging.

you can rotate the shoulder bells forward by putting black elastic across and above the bicep. also add a strap going vertically at the back of the bicep inside to the bell itself. this keeps the bell rotated by being attached to the bicep on 2 axis. also where the bell attaches to the shoulder you can move the mounting point forward towards the chest, instead of making it attach at the halfway point. by rotating the mount forward, and attaching the bell to the bicep in this way on those 2 axis you get an upper arm setup that stays all together and aligned.

hyperfirm are nice contact slave five on the boards here. if you look inside my signature links you will see several different kinds of blasters.

at first look you need to pull the chest and back closer.

I've talked about this many many times. the screenshots of TKC stormtroopers are coming out of different renders. the scratch pattern and layout of the weathering ARE NOT the same on all consoles. I did my pattern based upon the first renderings shown, and then we show a different set of renderings and people are basing their designs from completely different lighting situations and patterns of damage. it kind of makes me a little upset that we have 2 different helmet lines, and patterns to follow.

the originals were not painted. and the plastic can be thin enough for your helmet's exterior color to be effected. unless you're painting the outside as well. it's just not really needed.

oso... all the details you'll find in the blaster builds section of this forum. you can even pay me and I'll build up a kit that I have sitting here ready to go!

you can use leather, signs or even webbing.

www.trooperbay.com is a good place?

if you contact zero room he can make you a working trigger assembly. uses a hollow trigger group, and handle. and rubber bands for the action!

it ain't easy being cheezy!

yes.

the doopy do now comes with an actual D ring.

ok well then. Sterling.. check scope m38 check metal socket hengstler check blastercore check needed switches leds and wires and charge port and batterys.

I just have finally ordered a blaster core v.4 after 3 years of waiting!

the forearms are probably one of the hardest parts to "start with" I'd go with cutting out the biceps, keep note that all the trim lines should be followed at first. the trimm lines show the "overlap" style of construction, and should be cut on first. then after you have cut to the lines, then you can put the part on with duct tape and check your fitting. you want to make sure when you fit all your parts that you can do the following: bend your arms, legs. put hands and arms though. don't tailor it so close that you pinch your skin when bending, armor can actually cut your skin. the larger parts torso and other parts can be cut out with tin snips or heavy scissors. for lines you can clamp a strip of aluminum to the armor and use that as a cutting guide with a box cutter. simply score along the aluminum strip two times. remove the clamps and strip and bend the plastic along the score line carefully. it should pop off. lightly sand with 60 grit to remove the burrs and sharp edge. care needs to be taken when looking at all the parts. use screenshots of armor from the film itself to guide you into the details of the build. best of luck!

love that AP armor! the little white elastic needs to go completely around the shoulder bridge and should sit at the top of the strap above the back plate.