ukswrath

So all these changes that are being made, is this a staff decision?

So long as they meet the requirements in the CRLs you'll be ok. https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:FISD_CRL

You're very welcome Dave's dark side depot, never heard of him, have a link?

Yea they're closed. You can buy them from Imperial boots but they take orders in waves then shut down to complete the orders. https://www.imperialboots.com/# Similar boots can be found elsewhere you'll just need to do a little research.

Hey Alan welcome to the FISD. It's the ANH Stunt and Hero movie gun (prop) design that requires the holsters to be mounted on the left. ESB and ROTJ armor holsters are on the right. So long as the armor you buy allows for the correct build type you're golden. The build threads offer an abundance of information that will assist you with this as well as every other aspect of armor types.

Nice work Murry, armor looks awesome

Outstanding job Wilson. I may have to give my SLA printer a go with this one.

Coming along nicely Mark. Any new progress?

Sorry to hear your frustration Phil, nothing worse than vendors that don't deliver, sadly we've seen a lot recently. Glad to hear you're receiving refunds and a new opportunity to finally build your kit. Looking forward to your build

Might have to give this a try on my next build

Hey Martin I have a ShadowTrooper at the Specialist level. If you have any questions I'd be glad to help.

Yep, got someone working on personalizing the plexiglass as we speak.

Nice work Ivan, sorry for the late congrats.

Great job John welcome to EI trooper

Great job Derek welcome to EI brother

Great job Christopher, sorry for the late congrats

Congratulations Rob welcome to EI brother

Congrats Ardeshir fine job brother

Looking good James, good luck on your approval. If I had any advice it would be to drop your biceps, there should be very little gap between them and the forearms. Looks like your missing a few photos also.

I agree with Germain and Paul here, let's wait til the dust settles before starting a new CRL

Looking great so far Chris Regarding the audio system, I didn't see the speaker risers installed in any of your photos, these are there to prevent the speaker diaphragm from contacting the helmet or speaker material which may cause a lack of output. If you find the speaker performance isn't up to par install the risers between the speakers and speaker cloth. If you have any questions give me a shout . Looking forward to your build.

Awesome!

Congratulation Jamie great job, and welcome to Expert Infantry

Wet sanding with 400 should work just as well for rattle can paint as it was for the professional paint job that was performed on my kit. Rustoleum 2x is 2in 1 paint, the primer is built in. Adhesion promoter is mainly used with professional painting but may work with rattle cans, contact an professional automotive paint supply for more information on that. I've seen people use additional primers or adhesion agents and some without. Results varied, none being better then the other. Primer is great for filling in minor scratches but may not be needed with the Rustoleum 2x. Key point is to ensure the armor is dust and water free, painted in a controlled environment to prevent foreign material or wind from effecting the process (DIY paint booth), painted in temperatures recommended by the manufacturer and following the paint process set out by the mfg. Hope this helps

You people are just haters, haven't you ever seen a Centurion in training