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charlesnarles

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Everything posted by charlesnarles

  1. I use the LS2 in an ATA (small helmet + big head = thin liner) and the mil padding for bigger lids since they barely have any give (more like bags of air covered with fabric). The LS2 is perfect IMHO, as you can kind of tuck the brow band under your lens strip and only need a dot or two of Velcro around the cap'n'back, or actually use the two snaps in the back meant for the motorcycle lid.
  2. Get ankle weights and put them on your wrists <br> I'm doing a doopy with real stock and end cap at least that I plan to troop with. Strongtroopers! <br> If it's all about replicating the movies, Leia at least makes them look heavy.<br> As for holstering, did they not use real Sterlings for those shots? Or is it a matter of reinforcing the belt somehow?
  3. Top is Hasbro: less accurate silhouette, but a tried and true conversion kit exists (Doopydoo's), tho explicitly unacceptable for centurion level. <br><br> Bottom is Disney: scaled-down (about 83%), but arguably more accurate looking; some conversion parts of unknown origins can be found online, tho I'd recommend getting Doopydoo's pipe completion kit and fitting the parts to blaster's shape. Better SFX imo and has a stun setting too. No official feedback yet regarding centurion status modifications, but I'm trying hard to make one that will "pass."<br><br> Hope that helps!
  4. I felt it. Heard its call... Twinkles of Ben and Yoda guiding me toward the Force. My gf was less impressed, but she's a Han Solo, philosophically. I have a very bad feeling about Luke...<br><br> I didn't see any Gungans, either
  5. I'm more interested in the weight (utilitarian quality) of the holster. I can live with having a hero belt and holster in storage since I'll need all the stunt stuff for my ATA anyhow.
  6. The FB groups are full of rubies "conversions" usually consisting of a coat of black paint. They all seem to have disdain for the 501st though, so it makes sense that we haven't seen them
  7. I like them a lot, myself. I was able to get a Disney chatter/changer/burst unit that works perfectly with his speakers. As far as compatibility, they do use normal headphone connectors but when plugged into my phone on max volume for example they're very quiet. Tony (ukswrath) at one time had volume issues (I think with a RomFx) that he was trying to boost with an amp, so I'd pm him about iComms if he doesn't respond here. I couldn't be happier with how mine look and function, the likes of which have both been improved upon since my purchase.
  8. Strapping looks weird, but might work out. Can you believe he overtrimmed using pneumatic tools and a belt sander??... Looks like we get cover strips with the widths pre-cut, maybe.
  9. Speechless, Aaron! Bookmarked the heck out of this one. And it is indeed inspirational, for the record. I learned a lot, and feel pumped for doing mine soon.<br> We still need a final shot held by you dressed out
  10. I've read to use any old sock, but Amazon has ones designed for hobby irons
  11. Here's the go-to page. Hopefully you can get a kit sent there by somebody on the list. Best of luck!<br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/</a>
  12. I just ordered a steel receiver from Dday and an Apex kit. Can't wait to get debrazing
  13. The quick and easy path (eBay, etsy, etc.) isn't a good choice for blasters unless you move into the $250 range. And then you still will want to research and double check the maker. Disney, Hasbro or rubies make good cheap starters to mod and/or paint. Hyperfirms are pricey but look great out of the box. Keep looking
  14. I got a motorcycle helmet liner online and it's perfect for me. Military pads had my chin exposed
  15. It should have some of the wrinkles and dimples, but on mine it wasn't so high on the traps and back. Email him those pics if you don't get a definitive answer
  16. Yep, that's the one. They're still plentiful through Disney (and at D Land) at $25.00 so it's worth a phone call
  17. FYI this is on sale <br> <a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.apexgunparts.com/sterling-l2a3-smg-parts-set-9x19-nato-4905.html'>http://www.apexgunparts.com/sterling-l2a3-smg-parts-set-9x19-nato-4905.html</a><br> You'd probably be able to work with any sloppy weld-cuts, eh?
  18. ATA is reduced a little in scale. The idea was to combat the bobble head look of the old FX standard, if I'm not mistaken
  19. The big round edge (before trimming) on ATA kidneys supposedly goes up, if that helps
  20. I was just postulating them applying the tier 1 price to every customer's replacements; that tier 1 was "at-cost." I'd hope to pay $100, the tier 1 price or less for replacement 2-piece lid plastic pieces without any mark-up. Not trying to cheat them by any means; I genuinely would like to have an unassembled but complete parts set on-hand for instant replacement work instead of getting each piece individually (especially if we're paying for armor sets which will admittedly need replacement parts to remain complete/intact, and then paying for said replacements).
  21. I'm excited about at-cost replacement parts. Wonder if we can "replace" a face and a back n cap if we got completed helmets. Calling and saying, "Yes, I'd like a full kit's worth of replacement parts, please" sounds shady, but I wonder how close to $350 it'd be. They might do it
  22. I've gotten a 2014 conversion kit and a 2015 full resin kit, both without incident or notably long wait. I think it depends solely on their supply vs demand (they must get like 1000 emails a day) since wait times seem to fluctuate monthly. Try to be patient with folks in this hobby, but I fully understand your concern after months go by
  23. I cut the 5/8" cover strips after trimming all my arms, but they turned out okay. Arms are standard, rear leg strips might need to be different if you're above/below the suggested h/w. Keep it up!
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