charlesnarles

Is the answer nepotism? 😅

So jealous of your debazed mag well ðŸ‘

High-tech and won't wear out. Keep it up, brother!ðŸ‘

Huge thermal detonators? Maybe not. (They look unhappy to see a drone snapping pics to leak)

You won't be disappointed, they're comfy and look great. Only real discrepancy is the wider shape of the heel strip, but that's fairly negligible IMO

Good eye noticing the nozzle evolution, it's really improved even with the infamous hex blobs. That's how they all come btw. Yours doesn't look softer than mine from very recently too. Unless I just can't tell!

All the cool kids are getting T-Jay's kits... Are You??😉😅 (great little set of parts, in all seriousness)

That thing looks like it might be big enough for that Disney card and mic if hollowed, with real wires going down to the mic tip speakers which would be shielded from feedback. Probably fit an external audio system for the earmuff as seen in the dictionary ... Great sculpt, I think you're on to something😎

I can appreciate that (cracked mine fitting my Gaz mag), but my heart tells me I should try this since it looks like it's been de-welded as opposed to cut up (might be wishful thinking): ------------ THAT'd hold a real clip! 😎

Cant wait to see how this turns out for you. Best of luck 😎

Just got two magazines from 44mag.com on sale, big thanks to whomever's post in which I read about the sale. I'm planning to stick it in a resin receiver so I'm worried about the metal boring the plastic out. Anyone encountered or circumvented this before? I was thinking some thin metal plates on the inside of the receiver, but maybe I could coat the mag tip with rubber.

-insert some Jedi quote about our limitations being set only by ourselves- Don't be afraid to fail, you are unlikely to do something completely irreparable. Small mistakes can easily be fixed by filler and sandpaper so let us be an audience as your ideas to become reality😎 Can't wait to see how it goes

I'm learning about simple wiring too. You should be able to add wires between the LEDs and the board by using two wires each (positive and negative). You'll have to be careful not to connect + to - (nor - to +) or the bulb will fry. Google LED leads and you should find pics to help determine which connector is which. Keep everything connected the same way and it'll work. Hope that helps! Keep it up😎

Here's a short demo of the "try me" function. Gives an idea of their range when used with the Disney card, at the very least. I love that all the chatter is from ANH (albeit including "open the blast doors" from the Specisl Edition)

Bolt looks much better. Still able to pull it back a bit?

I'm just gonna use the Hasbro conversion Doopy counter since it's already partially hollowed, but yeah I cut it on the little trench with a hack saw and will need green stuff and maybe scrap abs sheets to fill in the 1/8 inch or so difference under the display's lip (if numbers point up). Totally not a run-on..

FYI the Disney counter is at least a few mm bigger LxW than a real one. For example, a real counter easily fits inside the scope's little lip which itself sits INside the white counter half. So it'd have to be oversized to hide the "stock" counter which might clash with the rest of the scale being undersized. Just thinking! Keep up the good work here and on there😎

That sounds easy, especially with no microcontroller, yay! Any downside to it you've noticed?

Yup, they're weird unique-to-Disney suits you can't own. Half hero, half stunt, ..half ROTJ. DLand sent them to SDCC for the secret concert (so rude to mega-fan Kevin Smith!), so you can get a good look at about 40 of them in daylight. Good idea to not burn yourself out; fatigue makes your brain not wurk so good no mores which generally equates to making mistakes. Luckily there's no time limit (other than put in place by ourselves)😎

Can't wait to see how those guts work out for you. Tight fit! I read that CA glue is best for resin-to-resin and e6000 is best for attaching different materials together. I've used regular Krazy Glue on resin-to-plastic with success, just make sure of its intended usage

Good idea making a safety tip, always thinking. I personally can't wait to see your Disney-Doo's build 😎 (I think that's where we landed monicker-wise unless you can beat that)😉

I think it sounds great just like this. I'm getting a good clear outdoor speaking volume with no distortion. It sounds just like ANH. My audio out female plug is a 1/4 to 1/8 inch adapter, if that matters. I got everything connected, reconnected, and hot-glued so now it's ready for installation into its dark round home: I was finally able to test out the voice changer with an observer who could hear the speakers more than my voice at around 10 ft away (just on a table, not installed and not with my head in a lid). Perfect! It also has a great sounding burst when you let go. I'll probably keep posting the installation pics here even tho I had better be done with the electronics side of things lol

Sorry, that link it gives me isn't good. There are others on YouTube tho

the connectors do have little holes, I'll have to give it another try. Thanks Chris Once it's connected securely I'm considering heat shrinking the whole board to keep the other wires safe. A project box would do wonders indeed

Boots are another area (like the blaster) that need to be nearly perfect for EIB or centurion only. Basic acceptance can be achieved with any boot matching the crl, so maybe have a screen-accurate pair for picture submissions and strict events, and a comfy pair for general trooping