Sly11

You certainly have a great start with what you have acquired so far. In my experience, fans would be the first priority for basic airflow, some visor fog and just to make it that touch more comfortable.icomms are a fun gadget to have, but even just an Aker amp will make a difference to being heard in a noisy environment. hearing assist, well I never really though it was worth it until I decided to put one in. Suddenly I could tell who was talking to me from where they were standing, left or right, and I stopped asking people to repeat or just nod like I heard what they said. I could hear people talking clearly from quite a distance away, so it does take a little volume adjusting to get it just right, but man the first time I wore my bucket with it installed, it was a game changer. The beauty is you can have all these things and change your load out based on different trooping environments. Sometimes I just go fans, other times the whole shebang it's always a bunch of fun what ever you do as long as you can troop and enjoy it.

First work towards eliminating the gap at the top between the bells and shoulder bridges. Shorten those elastic straps and try on the armour again before making any cuts. You might find you have rectifide your situation through simple adjustment rather than any trimming.

I tend to agree with Mathias here. Everyone has different sized shoulders and chest measurements. The look to aim for and also what the Deployment officers look at in approvals is a minimal gap between the chest and shoulder bells. if you mount them correctly, there should also be minimal to no gap at the top where they meet the shoulder bridges. Yes a slight curve cut or trim certainly helps that chest to bell gap, but you will need to test fit, trim a little, re test fit and possible trim again. The cardinal rule is always better to not trim enough, than to trim too much. You can fix the former, but there is no coming back from the later. if it takes more time to reach the desired or perceived "perfect result" then take the more time option, it always pays off.

Is that the zipper or Velcro of your neck seal at the front? If so, It should be turned around so it is at the back Looking good otherwise Paul.

Adding an update in this thread for transparency. The New member introduction section will be partially archived as the older sections of it are filled with information, links and even sections of the forums that haven't existed for many years. They will be preserved of course, for our history documentation and placed in a new section of our archives. Work on this will start in the next week. Looking at this section into the future, it makes sense to keep between 1 and 2 years of intro's front facing in the current section and older sent to the archives. This puts it in line with a similar system we are using for old news letters although they will remain in a front facing archive for all members to access.

I have flipped ends and started working from post 1 back. New Member Introductions Page 1 complete Sly11 Page 2complete Sly11 Page 3 complete Sly11 Page 4 complete Sly11 Page 5 complete Sly11 Page 6 complete Sly11 Page 7 complete Sly11 Page 8 complete Sly11 Page 9 complete Sly11 Page 10 complete Sly11 Page 11 complete Sly11 Page 12 complete Sly11 Page 13 complete Sly11 Page 14 complete Sly11 Page 15 complete Sly11 Page 16 complete Sly11 Page 17 complete Sly11 Page 18 complete Sly11 Page 19 complete Sly11 Page 20 complete Sly11 Page 21 complete Sly11 Page 22 complete Sly11 Page 23 complete Sly11 Page 24 complete Sly11 Page 25 complete Sly11 Page 26 complete Sly11 Page 27 complete Sly11 Page 28 complete Sly11 Page 29 complete Sly11 Page 30 complete Sly11 Page 31 complete Sly11 Page 32 complete Sly11 Page 33 complete Sly11 Page 34 complete Sly11

You have a good plan with plenty of detail so you wont go wrong. The tough part is indeed removing as many blemishes, cracks scratches and dents as possible so you have a great surface to apply that super shiny finish. Some things will be well hidden due to reflections others will stand out , so spend as much time as possible getting those gaps filled and nice and smooth. keep up the great work Brit.

Sssssssensational!!!!! OMG Dino, this is looking so so impressive.

Congratulations on your TK approval Luca

Congratulations on your approval Charles!

It's really coming together Jason, nice attention to detail, i love it. Also great to put a face to the name as you model your impressive build

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That's awesome Mike, great to see members out there both new and approved having fun.

I know someone who has bought a set of these for their FOTK, I'll see if he can add some photos of the finished product and give us his thoughts on the overall product. Some feedback will be good before we add them to the vetted list, although I believe the maker who was supplying currently on our vetted list, is no longer doing so, so we are limited for choice.

Exciting times ahead David, look forward to seeing your BBB and progress.

Nice work Jacob, I see your power outlets are amazed as well!

yeah it is hard, but you are still at it and that is certainly the most important factor here. You can do it Rodney and we will be here to cheer you on when you do.

All photos withing each post have also now been numbered for tracking in the review process. More updates to come soon.

This is the first 4 piece back and shoulder Cowell we have seen in a kit. I think the extra layer will indeed add strength at the top of the shoulder area but will have less give or flex when getting into the piece. Might mean less chance of cracking around the area just s touch more of a struggle getting it over your head and shoulders as you are already finding. Nice to see the chest plate has separate side wings too.

That's pretty darn cool Mike, good research as you have discovered clearly, is the key to any hobby and ours is no different. look forward to seeing your ATA build thread once you receive your kit. Enjoy you new journey and ask plenty of questions along the way, we are here to assist you where ever we can. Welcome to FISD.

Welcome to FISD Bobby! Great to see you have done some research, plenty needed in this hobby that's for sure. Glen has shared a great link with you from another member who spent a huge amount of time putting together some great information all into one thread.

FYI This costume is indeed heading for Spec Ops Detachment and will finally have an official home and CRL. Great news for you at long last as I just had a conversation with their DL and everyone is happy.

OK Dino, the Wiki origin is built currently with TFA trooper images until we get your photos. Please use the TFA CRL so you know what images we require, but basically all the same type including the gasket shots where you can see armour parts ( need to be gold ) I made minimal changes to the wording you submitted and onlt added the colour definition for the boot instep armour colour. I am undecided as of yet if we should change the "grey" to Slate Grey" in the descriptors.

When your kit is ready, if you can make sure you have a set of images of the individual parts in a lay out the same as the TFA TK that would be great. I'll need to Photoshop them so it is just the parts with no background. Also for you front and rear main images, make sure you have someone with you to help dress you so everything looks perfect for the CRL model. I will go through the CRL changes you have suggested and get a Wiki CRL document (origin Wiki) opened so that can be formatted to look like the other CRL's Final pieces are the photos really and making sure you look the best you possibly can for those . When you have the images ready the easiest way would be to put them in a google doc and email the info to me. I'll send you a PM with the email address to use.

Is anyone making a TLJ or Tros specific blaster presently? Barrel holes would be easy to fill, end cap grove would be easy to paint black or trim out if it is not there, but need a clear reference for the end cap clip. Basic no weapon is needed, at EI I would suggest correct paint scheme, and for centurion greebs, holes finer details should be correct for each film.