Sly11

Congratulations Danny, well deserved. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great progress, looking fantastic. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great work on your armor. A little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the slit rivet in the crotch is painted white. If it is please remove the white paint as they weren't painted originally . Good luck with your application. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Bradley, welcome aboard. Armors to consider, well most can me modified?trimmed to suit, but yes some are definitely for the larger trooper. AP (Authentic Props) is one of the smaller in size, so worth checking out. You can certainly shorten the shin and thigh pieces down, and the armour suits a 32-34" waist . No reason why you cant do the same thing to an RS kit either. The more you research the more this will all make sense. Good luck on your journey

Great job on this kidney shims. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

For cosmetics, and of coarse accuracy, try to keep your front cover strips on the thighs to the 20mm. As to the backs, you can certainly go larger, but try and keep the back of the shins to a similar size to your rear thigh cover strips. For example, 40 mm thigh back cover strip and 40 mm rear shin cover strips. In most cases the wearer will have larger calves as well . Recently I help a new cadet make a very large internal shim for the back of his thighs 100mm we then cut a filler piece, and made ABS paste to fill the small gaps. We then simply made a 40 mm cover strip and glued it on centrally. His calves were also huge, so had to make the 40mm cover strips for the back just to get them to close. In the end it all looked great, and he is currently waiting basic approval. He then intends to apply for EIB. I will get hold of some images of the thigh work and post them up in the next couple of days to better explain what we had to do. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Try a black fabric marker as it is more permanent than the humble Niko pen. Also, you will only need to colour the visible bits of white stitching really. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Another excellent read, thank you to all involved. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I found that due to the sometimes awkward shape and the amount of pressure required, it is definitely easier to do it like you have, but use Zappa Gap, and you are done in 1 hour. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great progress, I am enjoying your build. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Some times you gotta bleed too succeed. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

AWESOME, well done. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Go for it man, just go for it [emoji3][emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Keep it up Bill, this is a very cool build thread. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Stu, are you test fitting these as you go?, remember to always test fit with your compression top/bottom on for all limbs, before gluing. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just to throw it in there, you could also run twin fans, twin switches, twin AA battery packs, and hook the lot in series. This way you can isolate fans and run just one or two, simultaneously . You will draw power from all batteries regardless of which fan is on. Gives great run times and good power to 5v fans. When using rechargeable batteries which are normally 1.2 volt each. Works beautifully for me and for Echo with his fan kits. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

And another thing, in your defence Mark, in this very image.You can see the trim is a different colour white to the armor, especial around that butt plate. I think you have a strong argument here mate. [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats brother, bring on your Centurion app. [emoji3][emoji106]🻠Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ha ha, the dreaded AP sniper plate. I used the hot water in the bucket trick to change the curvature a little. Then used Zappa gap and the zip kicker on the first corner, aligned it hit it with zip kicker, clamped it anyway, then moved to the other side. With this side, I hit the corner that you need to Ali g with the ridge with a heat gun. First the shin ridge itself, then forced it to the sniper plate so as to bulge the shin ridge out a little. Then heat gun on the sniper plate ridge, and held the parts together until the plate dolled and partially moulded to the ridge shape. Hit that with Zappa and zip kicker for a fast bond. As my front cover strip made contact with the back of the sniper plate, I ran a bead of Zappa gap around it so as to give a third secure point. It has been firmly in place since July last year, with no signs of budging. Hope this helps a little. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yes the mould man kit has identical forearms, that is how the guy made them, they will be fine. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sensational build, easy pass. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm excited for you guys. I have your Lanyards and will be sending them up to Hervey Bay with Baytrooper this weekend, pity I didn't have them on Tuesday, cause i was in Bundaberg and could have hand delivered them. Good luck with your build.

Don't we all! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations to you and your wife [emoji322][emoji480] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No need for concern with regards to your return edge, the screen used suits didn't have them, so you will be good either way. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk