Sly11

I've said it before and I will say it again, Beautiful. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

looking good so far. Another option for your aerators is Sskunky (CFO) cast from original, his are painted and ready to install, plus they are cast off the correct hovi mic tips.

Another great news letter. Thanks to all involved.

It's going to look beautiful when it's finished. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Just stay out of Acid rain [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I have a suggestion for you on the snaps. Use a Phillips head screw driver first, instead of the tool. This helps to split the shaft in four directions, then use the tool to continue to spread them. It will give you a better fastening and might make it a little easier. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congrats on Centurion status Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Crisis averted Maybe do some work on one of your fore arms, generally an easier part to start on, trust me your confidence is going to grow rapidly, the more you get into the trimming. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking good Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Get your pencil out Stu, keep adjusting until you get it aligned and make some marks where they overlap, so next time you put the two together you will have those marks to easily get it back together . Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to EIB, congrats. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

The Gel control in some brands is as thick as they make it. It certainly gives you some breathing space before it locks, but if you are using talk with it, it is the same as using zip kicker, Bang and its set.

looks good to me

I take it these batteries are in some kind of pack and not a standard type AA rechargeable . If they are putting themselves into sleep mode there must be a chip in the pack that detects no amperage . Sorry just trying to understand exactly what you have. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Welcome to the ranks, congrats. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Do you have a set of small files, they are easier to use when you need to take out small amounts and end with a good finish, specially with small to work in areas like the teeth.

Very excited for you Stuart, sing out if you need a hand happy to help you make your first cut.

Congratulations, a nice set of armor indeed. Welcome to Centurion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Getting there, just make sure you clear the areas of paint that you are going to bond together. ie. trigger guard contact points, pistol grip etc, otherwise you may not get a good strong bond.

Update to my Blaster build Hengsler Mod I have been meaning to do this mod for yonks, Altair's beautiful Blaster build thread has inspired me to get off my butt and get this relativity easy upgrade done. Simpixel from FISD makes it straight forward as he not only has a template with all measurements accurately done, but he can also supply a printable form of numbers to put on your Hengsler for added realism. I chose my TK ID 11469 First sanded the end flat, taking off what was the raised area of molded counter display. This is where I noticed that my Hengsler wasn't square. Quite obvious in this shot Marked and ready to recess in for reset button and screen. I gave Altair a call, as I was having a devil of a time trying to print the display numbers out at the appropriate size. He told me he had the same issue and trial and error was the only way. Here I printed out various sizes, but for some reason, this time the 10mmx34mm actually printed at exactly that and is the one to use. It was time for some Dremell action, also used a sharp chisel to hollow out the screen and counter reset button area. Scope (one of my local garrison members) graciously, helped me out today with a piece of 4mm thick perspex. Thanks Jas, luv ya bro. From that piece I cut out a section 10mm x 34mm. I marked the depth it would sit in the recess, and used the end of an Art-line pen to mark the curvature the original lens on the counter has. Starting with 80 grit sand paper, I slowly sand the curve into the perspex, following the line marked at either end., gradually moving to finer and finer paper. Then hit it with 2000 grit Wet n Dry, and eventually the Dremmel with buffing pag and cutting compound. Used a spare piece of ABS, and cut out the reset button, width, 10mm, length will depend on how deep you drill out the slot to put it in. Image of the parts to complete the counter. Assembled for test fit. Next step is to primer, colour coat and then clear finish, reassemble and all done. Repainting time. Once the matte black has dried, I will weather and colour the crew heads. Well, you have got to love the weather conditions . Absolutely perfect for painting and drying. 24 degrees C, and 33% humidity. Everything just dries so quickly. Painted, clear coated, and assembled. Mounted Now, I will consider doing the curly wires that connect the counter to the power cylinders. Very few of the film used versions actually had these wires so we shall see. Maybe so more research will push me to go there.

Looking very good so far, and wow, that's a lot of clamps [emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sorry if I repeat anything already said here, but evolution is evolution. Sure we will always discover something new, or missed or never seen before, but history is what defines us. Things improve, be it technique, materiel, or technology, these costumes don't last forever, and gradually you will see less and less FX and first gen so to speak. Everything evolves and changes, but they certainly shouldn't be forgotten. Will everyone be happy, no, will everyone agree, never, but at the heart of it, we dress at Stormtroopers with various levels of accuracy, old and new. It seems to me that are mentality to all of this also needs to evolve. We should all embrace these different levels of accuracy and enjoy our hobby for what it is and not what you can afford, or have the ability to modify. I for one love high accuracy, but would never condem others for not achieving it. Love, peace and respect [emoji3] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Not saying this is what you are doing, but through experience. If you are using the basic tool for snaps(base part and centre part that flattens the middle piece), don't over flatten it. There are two different types of centre punch you can buy. One is simply round and tappers, the other actually is almost square and tapers. The square is the better of the two as it allows the centre part to split in four directions instead of just squash it down. This better secures the front to the backing and is much harder to rip one out of your armour, fabric, elastic etc. Hope this makes sense . If not I can take a photo of the one I use and post it in this thread. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Congratulations, and welcome to Centurion rank. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Detail is outstanding mate, will make your display piece this weekend. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk