Sly11

Awesome! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great to see you got stuck back into this build Mike, and its looking very good indeed. Make sure to take any sharp corners off your cover strips with a bit of sand paper, also do the same with all your return edges and anywhere you think you may get two pieces come together and pinch you while wearing your kit. Armour bite is a fact of life with trooping but you can reduce the damage it can cause to you and your under suit by rounding off corners just a touch. I'm sure you will find a few areas that can cause issue once you get your first troop or so down. Keep up the stellar work

You are most welcome Craig, it's what we love to do.

Thank you for bringing this here Adam, warning other members of bad business practices like this is of great help to the community. Sorry to hear of your unfortunate situation and we shall look at adding them to our buyer beware list.

I'm with you Andy.

You certainly made great progress. The side rivets are only a minor set back. Simply reposition them as per the info and diagram Joseph has supplied. ABS paste is easy to make and does sand back and polish up very well. You got this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well done Troy!

This is getting exciting now, I expect to see the BBB photo very soon

I think the many hundreds that have not received anything well out ways the few that have had delivered partial kits. Tough decision for you but I know which way I would lean.

And here is another production used Bicep shot to give an indication on how the set up attaches.

Agree on both the above comments. The bells on the screen used assets were attached with two black elastic straps flanking an aluminium support bar protruding from the yoke (not necessary nor important as far as the CRL is currently written) "The two straps stabalised the Bells somewhat". The Biceps were attached indeed with Velcro but also a nylon fishing line set up, both anchored to the underside of the bells to keep them in place and help decrease their rotation.

Welcome to FISD Chelsea, looks like you are in good hands

Congratulations Eric, Centurion next [emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finished product looks fantastic, well done sir.

I will add that say you wish to install a hearing assist device like the type Ukswrath sells, I would hold off installing it fully until after those approvals if you are going to install it behind the ears. If you drill holes through the rank stripe and they are visible, it could hamper approval. This is not a one answer fits all solution to helmet electronics [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These look great.

Don’t be like Anakin and hate sand lol. Sanding is good for glueing surfaces. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm good question, I'll take a look but it is most probably in the formatting of the page.

Here is a close up from a screen used asset right arm pill indents.

Solid work Don, keep it up.

I did see this posted by Markus on FB this morning Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DON’T BELIEVE THEIR HYPE! ANOSHO. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Amazing build thread Lee, I have enjoyed it every step of the way. Looking forward to seeing it all together.

You can use Turpentine to remove the paint, its the least harsh of the thinners and shouldn't damage the ABS. Dab over the stripes with a cloth soaked with the turns so it starts to soften the paint then see if it will start to wipe away. It may need a bit of coaxing so you can also use a wooden toothpick to lightly scrape it off the surface. Stencils are available through Trooperbay in a hand painted style and are the easiest way to have them re applied. A few tip when attempting to apply the stencils and repaint: Spray both the helmet area and the sticky back of the stencils with water that has a couple of drops of dish washing liquid mixed in. This will allow you to move the stencils easily into the correct position. You want approx a pencil with gap between the cheek and the top of the tube stripes. When happy with the positioning use paper towel and soak up the soapy water also make sure to squeeze and of the liquid out from under the stencil and make sure they are thoroughly dry. When dry, use white paint first to paint through the stencil lines. This will certainly reduce the chances of the blue paint running under any micro gaps of the stencil. Trust me it makes life much easier for any potential clean ups. If you do get some runs, simply dip a toothpick in Turps and lightly scratch away the runs. Hope this helps.

I concur, check out the vetted sellers list in the link below.