Sly11

I have notice that it reads attachment size over limit so you just cant add anymore off staff, it doesn't seem to remove them.

See how there is a little swoop of the center ridge at the bottom of the bells, that needs to face forward.

Dan, you should have unlimited storage space for attachments as you are on staff now. I've checked your settings and it does say "Unlimited". As to your old attachments, I can see the dates for them and can delete from the back end. There are 8 total, all from 2017. I cant see what they are from there but they do say they were removed by the poster. They will be gone momentarily.

I did Tae kwon Do for 9 years and the belt structure was similar. I achieved second Dan black belt. When I did Kung Fu, it was a very different structure, you start with nothing and must earn a belt or sash to be specific, then start ascending the levels.

Great to see you are still training Paul, thanks for your inspiring story.

Looking good Jayke, like Glen mentioned, once you have gaskets on the alignment will be quite different and make a huge difference to appearance and where parts will tend to fall naturally. Also adding the shoulder bars to hold the bells up and in line with the shoulder section is going to make a big difference.

Excellent, please keep us updated.

I added two images to my original post. This is how I have trimmed several kits to emulate the same lines as original shape and it has worked well. If there is a better way than that is fantastic and I eager to learn more. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Even how you say it can still be confusing Paul. Maybe 90 degree angle to the surface you are scribing on is easier. It will make sense once I have the chance to add the image I believe.

I use a technique where you attache a 2B pencil to an eraser or small piece of wood with an elastic band. You then run the block around the outline of the top of thigh and scribe a line in the exact same shape as the original shape you simply hold the block and pencil at a 90 degree angle angle so the tip of the pencil contact the surface and away you go. You can use the same technique to shorten the shins from the bottom. I'll get a photo up when I have a minute and it will make perfect sense.

You can sign up to your local unit and gain basic access to their forums. Once you introduce yourself there and ask a few questions, no doubt will will find a helpful member that will give you a hand It's how the whole system works in every country around the world and its why the 501st is successful. We are a family and love to help and build armour. www.501st.ca

This exactly, always trim off only half of what you need and check, then if you still need to trim more, readjust. Easy to remove , impossible to out back and have it look perfect.

Congratulations Kyle, Im sure you will get some local help, but make sure when your armour arrives, you create a build thread. It is the best way to get loads of advice right here on the forums. If you haven't already, start looking at some of those build threads and get some ideas of what is ahead of you. We all started just like you, never built armour before and to be honest once you start your confidence will gain at a fast pace as will your new found skills. Congrats on your purchase and looking forward to seeing your progress.

Take it easy Justin, we will be here for you when you get back up to full health. Good luck with your treatment brother. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would definitely agree with trimming from the top. Follow the shape and contour of the top edge and trim down. The screen used suits had no return edge so you are fine to remove it. Align the two halves at the bottom and leave the ridge intact. Trust me it will work out fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Considering the Thermal det plate will conceal part of the back, you could do either but most I have seen have trimmed each side evenly and used a Velcro patch to keep the two sides closed and fitting nicely. This is how the screen used assets were done for TFA. An overlap might create an uneven effect if you are also using Velcro as a closure medium when the TD is in place so I would tend to avoid doing it that way.

Welcome aboard Biddle. We may be the shiny white stormtroopers but love that shiny red Jet trooper build. Definitely keep us in the loop on how your approval goes sir. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome Jimmy! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep up the awesome progress Chris. I’ve used the plastic weld putty to reshape a set of 3D printed hand plates for a friend, it’s pretty good stuff to work with. Speak of hand plates, is that a set of R2 Dams resin plates you have? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very true, but they don't particularly want the costume as they believe we should have it. Again nothing any detachment needs to worry about until someone somewhere does decide they want to do the research, construct it, draw up the base CRL and become the poster child.

The LMO's all believe this costume, if anyone ever builds it, belongs in Pathfinders.

Cool. I think we will definitely run these two CRL’s as one with the two seperate and very clearly marked weapons load outs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welcome aboard Steven.