Bone

Hi Karin! It is not necessarily a question of "how", but of "what". To use soft brushes is an excellent idea, but if the plaster is as thick as you would normally make it to just pour a mold, the bristles will clog up and will be of much use as a piece of wood. You have to make the plaster rather runny to brush it on. But then you are going to have a problem with your positive, as the plaster runs down and merely creates a puddle at the bottom. The best way, imho, is to tilt your positive and rotate it while brushing the plaster on. On the other hand, if you can find a really thick soft brush (like a cosmetic brush used for blushing) and clean it in water after every third or fourth stroke you could use plaster that is thicker ... I hope that made sense ...

Long time ago there was a post by someone who build a small box from white leftover abs and clipped it to his belt. Another was trying to modify his beltboxes to carry the cards. But I have never seen the results ...

Not being symetrical in itself or compared to each other? Hard to make out in the photos ... At first glance, they look fine.

Does it affect the outside color of the helmet? I don't know the material of an SDS, but the blackened inside didn't affect the outside of a1.5 mm Troopermaster helmet.

15 mm for the arms, 20 mm for front of legs, 25 mm for back of legs. Sorry, don't know the Inch measurements ...

What the ...? Where does that come from? A single guy doing all the animation? I am an animator myself and I can only guess how long that might have taken to accomplish. Speechless.

Guys stop it! We will get banned for horsing around!

I used to know Rosenheim pretty well when I was a young Hosenscheisser, as I had an aunt living near there in Bad Aibling. But this is long gone and was only in the Sommerferien, because I live around 800 km away from Bavaria. Still fond memories. So you should be an "Andreas", when your sister is called Heidi (and yes, you are right, it doesn't get more german than that! ) The most unusual german heritage outside of Germany I experienced so far, was when we visited the Oktoberfest in Ft. Myers last october. (We brought along Dirndls for my wife and the daughters and I wore a Krachlederne. Mingling with the german speaking americans and drinking german beer under the hot Florida sun, was the most fun I had in a long time.) But we should go back to Topic. Sorry guys, it just came over us ... Won't happen again.

Cannot believe it! Terrific! You learn something new every day. And on top an australian dude addicted to Lebkuchen! Made my day!

I found that leather color in a rattle can is very easy to work with and gives superb results. I used a brand called from "Super Magix" Amaz on. 5-6 layers, worked like a charm. And fabric paint for the elastics.

Sorry to Interrupt the Topic: You have ALDI in Australia? You gotta be kidding. Perhaps it's a different venture with a name-coincidence. I'm asking because ALDI is ur-german ... Sorry, move along ...

If you don't want them to open at all, you should refrain from using any kind of elastics. What about just using velcro strips vertically inside the shin? Glue the soft part of the velcro to the part of the shin without the coverstrips and a longer strip of the "hard" velcro to the other side of the shin. That way you have some kind of flat"buckle" inside your shins. Or a completely different idea: Why don't you put the inside coverstrip on the other part of your shin, instead of having it on the same part as the outer coverstrip? You could then still use the bra fasteners and get the same clean results ... I hope that made sense, somehow.

Concerning the mic tips: The mesh is always silver, meaning not painted at all. The most common way of painting the resin part is to paint it matte black on the outside and leaving the inside untouched. After you painted them, lightly sand the rim back to the raw material to give them a crisp edge.

Wow, you went straight for the worst solvent to use on your armor! Acetone is used to melt plasticchips to make ABS-paste for filling gaps on your armor. You learned the hard way and have been lucky!

No round Corners: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/921-ab-plate-04jpg/

It will get hot in your helmet anyway. That's what fans are for.

Access, or do you own one? And you have unlimited acces to the plastic chords needed, like "for free"? Otherwise you will rapidly go down the drain, money- and timewise ... Depending on the Printer, printing out a handplate can take several hours. Plus, you need to break down the bigger parts into printable chunks and glue them together afterwards. And sand them. And polish them. And then you still don't have a wearable costume, but a buck to form plastic over or to take a Silicone mould. Not worth the Trouble. If you do it nevertheless, you are my hero.

Look at th e bay or at amazon for "Roamers" boots. Around 30 pounds on bay.co.uk.

Joseph was talking about the ribbed shoulder straps, not the bells. When you order a new chestplate, don' forget to order new straps, too, because your first ones will be still glued to your old plate. That was what he meant ...

Look online or at a store near you for black chelsea or jodhpur boots, buy some white leather paint in a rattle can and do it yourself. Takes two days and you are done. Screen accurate, cheap and durable. Just make sure your boots have a high shaft.

Helmets having small openings is common. That is why you have to "screw" them on. But still: pics would be great ...

Because it hasn't been mentioned before, I will do that: On your next helmet, don't dremel out so much material from the teeth. The teeth should have a bit of a thickness, meaning they should have somewhat of a return edge. Take a look in the reference picture section to see what I'm talking about.

Never heard "TK Wood", but understood immediately ...

Your pose on the second image is priceless! Thanks for sharing.

Satin, the rest is gloss.