Bone

I used to know Rosenheim pretty well when I was a young Hosenscheisser, as I had an aunt living near there in Bad Aibling. But this is long gone and was only in the Sommerferien, because I live around 800 km away from Bavaria. Still fond memories. So you should be an "Andreas", when your sister is called Heidi (and yes, you are right, it doesn't get more german than that! ) The most unusual german heritage outside of Germany I experienced so far, was when we visited the Oktoberfest in Ft. Myers last october. (We brought along Dirndls for my wife and the daughters and I wore a Krachlederne. Mingling with the german speaking americans and drinking german beer under the hot Florida sun, was the most fun I had in a long time.) But we should go back to Topic. Sorry guys, it just came over us ... Won't happen again.

Cannot believe it! Terrific! You learn something new every day. And on top an australian dude addicted to Lebkuchen! Made my day!

I found that leather color in a rattle can is very easy to work with and gives superb results. I used a brand called from "Super Magix" Amaz on. 5-6 layers, worked like a charm. And fabric paint for the elastics.

Sorry to Interrupt the Topic: You have ALDI in Australia? You gotta be kidding. Perhaps it's a different venture with a name-coincidence. I'm asking because ALDI is ur-german ... Sorry, move along ...

If you don't want them to open at all, you should refrain from using any kind of elastics. What about just using velcro strips vertically inside the shin? Glue the soft part of the velcro to the part of the shin without the coverstrips and a longer strip of the "hard" velcro to the other side of the shin. That way you have some kind of flat"buckle" inside your shins. Or a completely different idea: Why don't you put the inside coverstrip on the other part of your shin, instead of having it on the same part as the outer coverstrip? You could then still use the bra fasteners and get the same clean results ... I hope that made sense, somehow.

Concerning the mic tips: The mesh is always silver, meaning not painted at all. The most common way of painting the resin part is to paint it matte black on the outside and leaving the inside untouched. After you painted them, lightly sand the rim back to the raw material to give them a crisp edge.

Wow, you went straight for the worst solvent to use on your armor! Acetone is used to melt plasticchips to make ABS-paste for filling gaps on your armor. You learned the hard way and have been lucky!

No round Corners: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/921-ab-plate-04jpg/

It will get hot in your helmet anyway. That's what fans are for.

Access, or do you own one? And you have unlimited acces to the plastic chords needed, like "for free"? Otherwise you will rapidly go down the drain, money- and timewise ... Depending on the Printer, printing out a handplate can take several hours. Plus, you need to break down the bigger parts into printable chunks and glue them together afterwards. And sand them. And polish them. And then you still don't have a wearable costume, but a buck to form plastic over or to take a Silicone mould. Not worth the Trouble. If you do it nevertheless, you are my hero.

Look at th e bay or at amazon for "Roamers" boots. Around 30 pounds on bay.co.uk.

Joseph was talking about the ribbed shoulder straps, not the bells. When you order a new chestplate, don' forget to order new straps, too, because your first ones will be still glued to your old plate. That was what he meant ...

Look online or at a store near you for black chelsea or jodhpur boots, buy some white leather paint in a rattle can and do it yourself. Takes two days and you are done. Screen accurate, cheap and durable. Just make sure your boots have a high shaft.

Helmets having small openings is common. That is why you have to "screw" them on. But still: pics would be great ...

Because it hasn't been mentioned before, I will do that: On your next helmet, don't dremel out so much material from the teeth. The teeth should have a bit of a thickness, meaning they should have somewhat of a return edge. Take a look in the reference picture section to see what I'm talking about.

Never heard "TK Wood", but understood immediately ...

Your pose on the second image is priceless! Thanks for sharing.

Satin, the rest is gloss.

Last leg of the detour: Thank you guys ...

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I will be in Florida in April and I am looking for a source where I can buy Novus polish. Could anyone please tip where this stuff is to be found? Thanks a lot.

Your shoulder straps look like there is a lot of flesh around them. They could be trimmed significantly ... Also, just speaking of proportions, your thighs look a bit big in contrast to the rest of your Body and it seems like you have lot of space in them ... On the other Hand, when I take a look at the coverstrips on the front of your thighs, it seems you have done it on purpose ... Care to go into Detail? Nice clean build, btw!

And not every part necessarily turns out usable. You have also take into account the sheer number of parts that make up a whole set of armor. Now think about how many parts fit on a plastic plane of say 60 x 80 cm and you know how many sheetes need to be cut, heated, vacuformed, released and trimmed. I think it is very time consuming ... And now thar episode 7 is nearing, the demand rises.

Hey Aaron, any stuff to post on your incredible build? I am running dry ...

Or another headphone jack?

The belts are not so much attached, but clipped on via snaps. So you can exchange them easily. And yes, you gotta go through EIB first, before you can apply for centurion. But honestly, if you aim for centurion straight away from the start and fulfill all requirements for that, EIB is a walkthrough. Achieving Centurion Status is no rocket science, it just means that your costume is as near as possible to the original ones. Nevertheless, depending on the armor maker, it can mean doing severe alterations to your suit.