T-Jay

What a shame. Those were the best replacement magazines. Any time, Stefan. Whenever you want one, just let me know.

NOW the funny part begins Indeed the primer reveals all weak spots. If you mind, you can use a filler before adding the final paint. Skip that step if you go for a strutured surface, as the paint will then surely cover this.

No reason to cycle the lights, Mike. The only thing I would suggest is to add a "silent second" to the end of every sound - so you can release the trigger at the correct moment.

Hi Mike, glad to see you are working on this blaster again. Lights look good. Do they stay active as long as you keep the trigger pulled? Cannot wait for the sounds and looking forward to your next update.

This seems to be the same every time. When I received my first DoopyDoo's kit, I simply wanted to glue it and paint it black, but then came across some nice build threads and thought "Okay, make the trigger working". I ended up with modifications on almost every part I could think of - and this only happened because of the FISD community. For the same reason I encourage people to start build threads. So, Stefan, you might find your intention to change along the way when building...

Great progress, Dan - and the weekend hasn't even yet begun. Cannot wait to see the paint job in your next update...

Yes Stefan, the guys at DoopyDoo's are hard to reach - no matter if using phone or messenger. It is a nightmare. The good thing on your missing magazine is, you can use this opportunity to get a nice replacement magazine. Best source I can think of is Steve (gazmosis). He offers white and black resin magazines. Never seen anything better than this.

There is pro and con to both options. A person with a small blaster bag will most likely prefer the magnets and being able to remove the magazine for transport purpose. On the other hand a superglued magazine is much more stable. Half a year ago I joined a troop with my first blaster (superglued magazine). While turning around, I accidentially hit something next to me and knocked off my magazine. Super glue was required to fix this. If I had used my other blaster that day (with magnets) it would have been much easier. Just pick the option that suits best for you.

Wow, what an update! So many love and time is put into details these days. Makes me sad to see some resin chipped off your magazine. If the repair with green stuff does not work here, I would suggest to build that top cap from scratch with a thin ABS sheet. An iron could be used to round those three sides and you could slide it over the resin piece. Does that make any sense? Once your build is completed, that exact area of your magazine becomes the weak spot when putting your blaster on a table. Not sure if green stuff will stand this...

Loving this mod! The rounded edges really make a big difference. And yes, the aluminum U-channels are rough cut and need some fine trimming. Good job, Jesse. You have taken the maximum out of this.

Very nice work on your power cylinders. Although you have already finished the details, it is not yet too late to shape the backplate. Just pushing For painting it makes sense to start with a brush, as spray paint does not properly cover the small areas in the center of this piece. Then finish with spray paint.

Got nothing to add, what has not already been said - except: it really is a pleasure to follow this thread. Great attention to details and posting style.

Hi Freddy, welcome to the FISD (again ) and glad to see you decided to start a build thread here. I am very sure, your blaster will benefit from it.

The photos of that cleaned Sterling parts set are mandatory for this reference but were easy to overlook in the past, as the only link was available in chapter #33 - Gallery. Very good to have this important content now as a downloadable PDF. Thank you Jesse

Hi Drew and welcome to the FISD. The thread you are replying to here, is meant to help people with building a resin blaster. To buy a finished blaster, you can check the Imperial Commissary / PX section of this forum or for example have a look at Praetorian Blasters (made of rubber, more heavy than resin builds) or the SDS blasters or any other available source for blasters.

Thanks for your reply, Mathias. Sounds like you might have gotten me wrong. The problem I meant, is not about getting too many notifications, but to be able to delete them after usage. Prior to the upgrade, my notifications showed me all threads I have to look in. When this was done, I deleted them. No notifications left = everything checked. This doesn't work any more now.

I really love this forum, so I have to ask a quick question regarding the notifications: Before the big upgrade, I used the notifications to keep track of all things and deleted them after use. Since the upgrade, notifications become more and more each day, what makes it harder to keep an overview. Would it be possible to make them deletable again? Can't see a reason for having them archived, beside of increased loading time and data capacity.

Just bumping Tray's thread, because it is good point. Our earlier used forum software (before the recent upgrade) supported this.

Was impressed by your drawing skills in that first photo - and then blown away by the precision of Mickey Mouse in the next picture. Wow, that looks spot on. You're not working for Disney, aren't you?! Your term "Blaster Master" made me blush. Please don't get it wrong but all in all I am just a common builder. Like many others here, I got my inspiration from existing builds years ago and just tried to push the limit. This again inspired other people to raise the bar higher. At the end, it all increases the accuracy of our blasters, which is a good thing. Your Hengstler numbers look very good. I faintly remembered a link to print individual numbers, but have not found it and you've already done it yourself. Excellent reshaping work on the standard DoopyDoo's magazine. Do you plan to install the LED head to simulate that little release button? If so, just bear in mind not to drill too deep. Otherwise the head will stick out too much.

Looking good so far, Jesse. The same procedure (except the washers) can be done to the other solid aluminum pin in the middle of the folding stock.

The attention you pay to all the details is highly appreciated. It gives a clear understanding to every potential builder about the required effort to turn such an airsoft Sterling into an ANH E-11.

The hammered paint (preferably combined with the paper dabbing method) is a good way to bring a nice texture on your paint's surface. Compared with the wrinkle paint, it is easier to apply, dries much faster and does not smell like hell. In this build here I had used the wrinkle paint and it turned out not as perfect as I had expected. Be aware: this paint requires a specific room temperature, air humidity, triple layer spray technique and 48 hours drying time. And although my paint job was completed 1.5 years ago (at this moment) it still smells! Keep that in mind. Oh and for working with green stuff, I found it useful to simply keep my fingers and tools wet. This reduces the stickiness.

Looks good to me, Dan. The brass and flat black you plan to use on the scope can also be used on the Hengstler socket (the part with the window and the logo). The black paint on my T-tracks was Tamiya XF-1 (hand-brushed) but wasn't worth the effort in my case, as there was little to no difference in the end.

Thanks very much, Dan.

Correct. Just rotate the magazine front to back. Good progress by the way and nice work so far on the power cylinders