T-Jay

Looking good so far, Freddy. Maybe check some reference photos regarding the front sight cage. That crosshatch pattern is different on front and rear side of the cage.

Ah, feeling better now. Looking forward to your build progress...

Was no green stuff in the kit?

Great updates, Mark. Have done model building at this age too, but luckily never experienced something like this. However, your paint summary will be very helpfull for many readers. As long as you are unsure if this really works, I would simply not risk anything and skip this step. Reasons: - the paint will also be fine without a layer of clear coat - no point to risk your paint job in one of the last build steps - you can add the clear coat anytime later, even after doing the weathering and seal this too

A very radical and unusual approach, Freddy. But who cares?! The result speaks for itself - and that looks good so far. Not sure if you have to paint the inside of the scope at all. I would only do this, if the resin is visible somewhere inside when looking through the lenses. Just my two cents.

Congratulations on this superb looking blaster, Wayne! You rocked this build including many parts from the completion set in less than a month (wow!) and yes, it is absolutely good enough for trooping. And more... Regarding the ring on the end cap: depending on how clearly your application photos will show this area, you might get away with it like it is now. If on the other hand you have a few minutes, I would suggest to paint it black too. Anyway, I wish you a really good time with this blaster and a lot of events to use it on.

Hi Mark. When running this build, I had only heard of that technique, but had not seen it in person before. Christian (DarthChridan) had informed me about this trick and it later turned out to come from Felice. So I did not really exactly know, what to expect when doing this. Regarding the hammered paint: You need to dab it while the paint is still wet. Don't wait, just spray and then slightly dab it. That will only work, if the layer is thick enough for the kitchen paper to leave some "imprints" on the surface. If you don't succeed with spray paint, maybe try a small can of the brush-paint (if available). This will surely result in a thicker coat (and maybe a longer drying time)...

Just a very minor thing to notice: the two small screws on your scope front could sit a bit deeper. On real scopes these two screw heads are placed about 1mm below the surface.

Well done Mark. In that latest update, you thought of everything and haven't left out a thing to modify.

Wow, this is filled up pretty solid. Curious to see how it looks after drilling...

From your description and the photos, I would go with the Rustoleum Hammered Black with Tamiya Matte Black overtop. If you are not happy with that structure, you can try a wrinkle spray paint (like VHT GSP201). But make sure to check the specifications (temperature, humidity, ...) before buying.

In a finished scope, the tiny engraving of the cross hair lens can only be seen clearly, when it has the correct distance to the big lens. Otherwise the magnification effect won't work and you will not be able to spot anything. A good distance can be derived from the assembled monocular. In other words, it's best to put your cross hair lens straight onto the small end of that conical cylinder, holding the big lens. Please see last picture below.

Reasonable thinking, Tom. Unfortunately the 2nd lens is to compensate pillow- / barrel-distortion. Here is that section, copied from my last build: Also thought about integrating the prism(s) but a convex lens turns the image upside down and left to right. Hoped that a 2nd lens (see arrangement in the monocular) would revert this effect. But these are used to compensate pillow- / barrel-distortion. Wasted several days researching and trying every possible combination with lens(es) and prism(s). No luck. As a last chance I grabbed some scopes plus monoculars and went to my eyewear optician. Result: with the given hardware, there is no way to get it working correctly and I was not willing to spend a little fortune to try and error. At least there is light shining through that scope and the lenses make it look somewhat real.

As far as I know, a few people (myself included) have tried this already but nobody ever managed to solve it - so far... A guy once fixed the upside-down-issue, but still had the image mirrored left to right. I also used the two prisms from the monocular but had no success. Went to an eyewear optician and he also had no idea. If you find a way, please let us know

Great job done on the folding stock, Mark. These modifications cause a lot of effort and you went through it all the way. Not an easy task, but properly solved. Sorry for being so late to answer this. You are correct with how the rail is being mounted in that photo. Your rail looks different, because you had taken one of the "fully finished and painted scope rails with pilot holes and separate counter bracket". These got reworked and improved just recently and they now look like shown in that photo. As Dan already suggested, you could cut the 90 degree bend off of the back end, drill a new hole and screw it straight down.

Congratulations on your BBB day! First thing on my mind was "a bi-colored trooper" but then realized it must be the protective foil. Good luck with that build. Helmet looks cool already.

As far as I know, only an Admin can delete them. Standard users (like us) can only edit their own posts. Below them there are buttons for Multiquote, Quote and Edit. Not sure how this looks on Tapatalk, but you should see it when using a computer.

Can't believe how good the punch-numbers worked on your resin (again). Had tried this about 4 years ago on my first build and it absolutely not worked. However, good job done on this - and the same for the rear sight. Not yet heard this before, but it sounds believable when considering, the L-shaped piece can be removed (see page 37). So far I always attached my rails like this:

Excellent job! For this purpose, it was good to have that piece of brass laying around

You could still go back and edit your posts. Either to place new content there, or just to state "double post" - less scrolling down for your readers

Guessing you will use all 5 of them, as the plastic covers and green stuff are causing a little gap between the magnets and reducing their strength. Good job done on your other work in this update, too. I can only imagine how hard it was, to build that little clip from a sheet of brass...

Correct, that's how it was meant. Oh and great work on your recent progress. Loving how this comes along...

Good job Marc. In case you are not happy with your trigger travel, there is something else you can do. Instead of repositioning hole #2, you could also trim your trigger. If you remove a little resin right where it hits the nail, it will result in a longer travel.

Scope done - except for paint and weathering And give these screws a black washing, otherwise they will look factory new. Or even better: paint them black and then chip off some paint here and there.

The 3 bigger screws on the outer edge sit on top of the surface, while the 2 smaller ones are about 1mm under the surface.