T-Jay

Another success Patrick! Congratulations (again ) for reaching your final personal goal with this armor (far earlier than you had expected). Looking forward to our next troop/event.

That brings a question to my mind: Would a trooper lose the EIB and Centurion, if the armor is being altered AFTER the approval of levels 2 and 3? Not thinking about doing this, just curious to know.

Yep, I fully agree to Dan's suggestion. Spade bits are the best choice for this type of drilling work. Just make sure you grab a set with a 25mm spade bit, as that will be required if you are planning to install the big end from the monocular into your scope (like you can see here).

Thanks for posting your build steps in such a detailed manner. This will surely encourage and help other people here to successfully complete their own builds and get more out of these resin kits, than just gluing and spray-painting them.

Exactly what Dan (CableGuy) already said. Just keep your tools and fingers wet while working with it and allow at least 24 hours to dry. If you run out of greenstuff, let me know.

Woohoo, congratulations on this double-achievement! Can only imagine how great this must feel, mate. After all the work, you deserve it. Have a fantastic weekend.

Fred, in your Completion Set is a piece of foam, wrapped around some screws and sealed with a cable tie. If you open it, you will also find a nail for your trigger mod and several mounting screws. These can be used to attach the grip to the receiver tube.

That first step already individualizes your build, as painting is usually one of the last steps. The black coating might cause an issue when it comes to gluing things. But you can always sand down to the pure resin before you glue and add paint again later. So, all good. Nothing done wrong yet - and the bright color of the resin will highlight your modifications.

Looks like a DoopyDoo's full resin kit to me, where somebody hollowed the front sight cage. It has all the typical characteristics. Just rotate the end cap to bring the two bulges downside. Back to topic now and good luck with your EIB request.

Voted Very nice designs

Thanks Dan. While doing the weathering, I was on the fence to go all dirty but will safe this up, in case it starts yellowing some day. Let's wait and see... Got your point, Tom. On my first picture it looks a bit like walking could be an issue, but during the last 3 years it never was. I even went upstairs and downstairs with this armor several times and had no problems. The gaps between the upper legs and the cod piece are varying from small to none - depending on the size of the trooper and the daytime (no joke). In this ANH screenshot you will find gap-variations from big to none, so I will wait if Tony or Andrew see a problem here. A photo of the D-ring has not been uploaded, as this is not stated in the current EIB photo checklist. But the ring can easily be spotted in both side view pictures. I am much more concerned about something else on this blaster...

That inner bolt looks soooo much better now.

Personal Information Name: Tino Jacobs 501st TK ID: 61276 FISD Name: T-Jay Garrison: German Garrison (White Shadows Squad) Profile Page: 501st Profile TK-61276 Armor Maker: Troopermaster Helmet Maker: Troopermaster Blaster Type: E-11 DoopyDoo's Full Resin Height: 176 cm Weight: 70 kg Boots Maker: TK-Boots Canvas belt: Troopermaster Hand Plates: Sonnenschein Electronics: Aker Voice Amp Neck Seal: Veedox Holster Maker: Troopermaster Link to Armor: Fully finished ANH Stunt TK (1,5mm ABS) from Troopermaster with some modifications Link to Blaster: Full resin E-11 from DoopyDoo's with some modifications Armor Photos Full Body Front – Arms at side Back – Arms at side Left – Arm raised Right – Arm raised Right Side Detail – Arm raised Left Side Detail – Arm raised Armor Details Abdomen Details Action Shot Cod and Butt Plate Attachment Interior Strapping Helmet Details Front Left Side Right Side Back Hovi Tip Detail Lens Color Blaster Details Blaster – Left Blaster – Right Accessory Details Neck Seal Thermal Detonator – Back Thermal Detonator – Front Holster Attachment Inside Holster Attachment Outside Please state if additional information or photos are required. Thank you.

He's on fire

Hi Pawel, that sounds VERY interesting. Cannot wait to see detailed photos of this work... Imperial regards to the Netherlands

Really a beautiful blaster Dan! Very nice and believable weathering, too. Hard to add something now, that has not already been said. For the final touches I kindly suggest to paint the green stuff on the trigger guard and add a light washing to the parts in shiny silver and brass. Just a little bit to dull it down. Anyway, your blaster is another good example of what can be achieved with a standard DoopyDoo's full resin kit - and skill. Not advertising for it, but you started with one of the simplest resin kits available and look what you have turned it into. I really love the result!

Woohoo, that was a quick one! Congratulations Patrick! Maybe I should finally get my pictures together and do the same...

If sanding or wear and tear goes through all paint layers, I use to repair these spots with dry brush technique. This always worked fine so far and adds a believable look to the blaster as time goes by... Would not worry about that.

Really looking good, Dan. Cannot wait to see it with all the other parts attached and weathered.

You are waisting no time, don't you?! Good luck, mate. Keeping fingers crossed for you...

That is something I examined on almost every DoopyDoo's E-11 grip piece here. In my case additional paint coats did not solve the issue. Maybe an expert for resin can tell us more about this effect...

Very cool, Mike. This should give you enough time to release the trigger in a good moment while trooping.

Wow Jesse!!! THIS is outstanding! Never seen such a crazy end cap mod. Thought I had gone the extra mile but YOU really rocked that part.

I love it when a build comes to this stage. The paint totally changes everything On the other hand, we are getting closer to the end - which is good and sad at the same time Anyway, for the moment you are not done yet and there will surely be a few updates left to come

If doing it this way, you will have double masking work. Your last paint layer (stated above) is matt black - this also is the last paint layer for the whole blaster. Why not masking the tracks now, then paint metallic silver and hammered black, then unmask the T-tracks and spray the final matt black to everything? Just an idea but maybe I got your plan wrong...