T-Jay

In my case a solid piece of hard plastic was used, just because it was available. Dan's idea with the MDF is much better, as this material is way easier to shape and will lead to the same result.

That looks good, Dan. You made some nice progress there. Do you plan to build an inlay to fill the slot between the charging handle and the spring?

The online version of the Blaster Reference contains detailed photos of a cleaned Sterling parts set. This is a very helpful resource. In a few photos, the rear sight has been disassembled and there you can see the rounded bottom. Wanted to post a picture of it, but your build progress was faster

Indeed, a nice idea to make this from wood. Looks good. If not yet glued, I would kindly suggest to sand the bottom of your rear sight to better match the shape of the receiver tube. This would reduce the gaps on both sides. Or you can just fill them with green stuff. Sorry for comments like this. Don't want to sound like a teacher. Just following these cool build threads out there and I know, sometimes it's hard to notice these small details while being busy with building the whole thing.

Thanks for the kind words, guys. Alan, let me know if you need any detail info or additional measurements. Still have another set of those two circuit boards here and I am not sure, if I will ever need them. Depending on what you plan to build, I can forward these to you. Just drop me a PM of you want.

Hi Paul, good choice to start a build thread here and a nice progress so far. Trigger guard looks okay, maybe you can bring it closer to the trigger to reduce the gap at the bottom and curve that straight section. Not sure what you made the guard from, but please bear in mind, the aluminum stripe in the kit was meant for the scope rail. However, you can surely get the same (or similar) aluminum locally. It's 2x20 mm. Dan (CableGuy) is currently running the same build (DoopyDoo's full resin kit with Completion Set V3.0) and Jesse (Dracotrooper) too. I am following each of you in case I can help and there will surely be a lot to learn from the other builds. Enjoy your weekend and happy building

Like said before, it doesn't have to be like that. You can use the pre-drilled pilot holes or close them with your green stuff. It all comes down to your personal taste and preference. Half a day off??? Uuuh, we're expecting LOADS of progress here on FISD in such cases. - feeling the pressure rising already?

The position of the counter on the scope looks good to me, Dan. The only thing I would suggest, is to move both parts a bit closer towards the end cap. Not sure where it came from, but I always install the scopes with the rear foot aligned above the folding stock hinges. Does that make any sense?! However, it doesn't have to be like that. Maybe you want to check some photos in the Blaster Reference for this.

Looking good, Dan

To save you from building the trigger guard again, you can glue it in place and add green stuff on both ends. Once hardened, this will give additional support. That is how I did it and so far it worked well. Another reason: there are no visible screws in that place on the original Sterling.

Yes. Due to rough cutting, the aluminum channels are always a little bit longer and do need some fine trimming. I would say, go for the aluminum trigger guard because it looks much more accurate.

No ignorance at all, Dan. All fine. The lens I am talking about is item #34 (reticle lens to install a crosshair into a hollowed scope) To get a clear reading of the engravings, they need to be magnified by the large lens in your scope. But this will only work, if the distance between crosshair and magnifying lens is correct. See red arrow in the second picture.

Everything looking good so far, Dan. If the front sight from the DoopyDoo's kit gets separated into sight guard and sight block (like you did here), it can be turned into a really nice thing. Did exactly the same with my last DoopyDoo's build and was happy with the result. It might end up being a tiny bit too small (hard to notice) but once you add the front sight pin and the grub screw at the side, it will look very good. Loving your extra effort to make the T-tracks looking like additional parts. Haven't seen this before (at least I can't remember) and these days it gets harder and harder to show a modification, that hasn't been done before. An excellent detail. Just one question: Do you plan to install the crosshair lens / reticle lens into your scope?

Thank you Dan for pointing Paul in my direction. He already contacted me and I will ship his completion set tomorrow...

Always happy to help And yes, I can only agree to what Brian said about the spade bits for hollowing your scope. I tried different bits earlier and nothing worked as good as this. Just make sure to grab a set with the correct size to install the big end of your monocular into the scope (in case you go for this mod).

Feels like having a déjà-vous Glad to see your latest progress. This blaster is getting better and better...

This build is outstanding with excellent pictures and extraordinary painting skills!

A simple hacksaw did the job. And a file was used on the long side for trimming it.

The self-made trigger guard in this link was built from exactly the same aluminum stripe (item #04 from the Completion Set). The 2mm thickness is sufficient and sturdy enough. It can be bent to shape with hands and pliars. A vice is also useful. In my case, I had to trimm the long side starting 12mm on the top end to 10mm for the lower end.

Wow, just read this and had no idea, somebody was working on this in the background. Will get in contact with Danny (Ripper_L). Sorry to hijack your thread, Jesse. Back to topic

Very cool progress, Jesse. Loving how familiar some of your pictures look to me Thanks for the kudos. Happy to help. Looking forward to your operational folding stock locking mechanism...

Perfect, those two pictures say it all. Yes, maybe a new trigger guard will fix the movement problem as well.

Hey Dan, great progress so far. Yes, hollowing the folding stock is a time consuming thing but you did it good and that little mistake can be fixed with the "green stuff" or something similar. Now onto your trigger problem: This is a typical issue on a DoopyDoo's blaster build, because the trigger guard is thicker than the original ones (resin is fragile) and it also is placed slightly closer to the trigger. If you study reference pictures you will notice the upper mounting point is mislocated. You can build you own trigger guard from aluminum to correct this. To question 1: The "maximum pull of the trigger" on your above photo looks okay, but you can go deeper to win more room for trigger movement. To question 2: The upper end of your trigger (next to that nail) will "push" against the resin in your grip piece. You can add a tiny plastic piece there to stop it earlier.

Oaaahhhh This is freakin' awesome, Chris. Never expected you to go THAT deep into this detail.

Thanks everybody for your comments and the warm welcome. Even with having the armor displayed on a mannequin, I am aiming for several troops per year...