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Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by sylverbard

  1. sylverbard

    Swag Toss

    Sorry, but the HUD browser in my TK is set to never accept cookies....
  2. Yo. I'm 47. Centurion. Consider the gauntlet thrown, Sirrah. ;-)
  3. They don't allow discounts on payment plans for sure. Black Friday is coming :-)
  4. The white elastic around the bridge will help . Shoulder bells and biceps don't weigh much...it sounds more like the front to back strapping needs to be more secure all the way on the surface of the chest and back do it can't move outwards. You used webbing not elastic right? Glue it down as far as it goes without glueing to the bridge and slide the white elastic up almost flush. Tighten the elastic if its too loose.
  5. What he said. Do the black first then the grey after. Pinstripe tape helps too.
  6. I still dont understand but that's OK. My shoulders are held on with nylon and glue biceps glued to that. Forearms glued to them. All goes on like hockey pass and I've got lots of motion. Elastic would just ...fall.
  7. Upload pics to photo bucket then put links here. Or link the listing. But if you have to ask if it was worth it......
  8. I would ask whomever is doing the vac metal work if they do the surface finishing. If so, let them do it so they have to redo it if there's a problem. Otherwise ask them how they want it brought in. But yes you'll have to do the seams and structural work. I'd make sure they see a picture of the kit as well as desired final look in case that they want things in specific parts or layers.
  9. Maybe. But I've seen too many builds where Bondo and glazing putty are structural...then All crack to bejebus. Apoxie sculpt, glue, proper finishing so things just fit are all better than Bondo.
  10. Since you have to Paint it start with 400 and just go bigger numbers till you are wet sanding with 2000. Phasma needs to be a mirror or it looks awful. If you are having it professionally chromed...just pay them to do the surface work.
  11. Is it finished? Did it look ok in the ads pictures? Was it really cheap?
  12. Hit it with 800 grit, then glazing putty. Let dry. Rub surface with thumb or thumb part of palm. Re putty. Let dry. Light 800 grit. Holes should vanish.
  13. Armored cavalry. Hit up the main 501st.com website and find the detachment lists, ACD has the drivers for most imperial vehicles except tie pilots.
  14. Buy a smaller back from someone who needs a wider one.
  15. No rivets are level 3 I thought they were basic approval. Mines always had them. Shoulder bells do need the black elastic that goes around the biceps though. That is base approval. Lots of gmls miss it.
  16. I'm trying to imagine how the helmet sits on your shoulders. The shoulder strips sit on your collarbone and shoulders, yes? Not sitting above them somehow? Tilting it forward is just going to prevent looking left and right.
  17. If the armour didn't come with it the notch is no longer required. The crl hasn't been updated yet.
  18. And...I just noticed where the left side rivets are...I'd wait for clarification from the DOs but should they meet at a seam or be spaced that far apart across a shim?
  19. There seems to be a lot of space between butt and kidney plate. And I think the belt should be flat and not angled downwards. Is your cod pulled up as tight as it can ?
  20. now if you can get him to drop the serenity coin...;-)
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