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sylverbard

Imperial Attaché[TK]
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Everything posted by sylverbard

  1. I'd pad the rear of your thighs. From left and right there's a big difference in the clean straight line .
  2. It's going to bleed under from the first coat anyway. If you have spare templates I'd remove everything, wash clean with mineral spirits , dry. Reapply templates, press into place, paint a coat of white and let dry. Then the correct blue a few coats after really stirring the blue paint well. If you don't have spare templates I'd just paint the right blue on top, let dry overnight, then remove all the masking and start cleaning with toothpicks and mineral spirits.
  3. I'm an extroverted introvert. I can and have existed alone for a while...and it comes down to the people around me. I tend to have a great skill at peacekeeping and yet a great skill for shucksstorm ...which autocorrect changed to agitator...fun...causing because I speak out. So I Jawa and tk and nobody cares what we say anyway ;-)
  4. Dollar store gloves. But still a small size may be large.
  5. Mine are that way too, but some armours just have bigger gaps at the bottom than others. The anovos kits often look ...ratty...
  6. Try the material used around screens in screen doors...little black tubular stuff you press around with a wheel. Sewn in between material it may work. I like a neck seal that breathes a.lot tho, rubber might just be warm.
  7. I'm curious...are the cover strips just not long enough to cover the seam at the bottom?
  8. I made pads out of dollar store knee pads. They curve nicely, cut easily, and I just hollowed out the spots my ears sit it. Thin foam on top so I can see out the eyes and done.
  9. Sludge meaning fiberglass trimmings and acetone or mixing up slush fg ?
  10. Armour and helmet must match as close as you can. Otherwise it will just look wrong.
  11. Bondo makes fiberglass version. Just use the two part bondo. You are better off using more cement than Bondo. Bondo is not structural it's cosmetic. I don't think fiberglass and acetone make sludge.
  12. Abs scraps and acetone. Google abs paste or abs sludge and you'll find some videos and stuff.
  13. Have you contacted the vendors in the getting started thread to see if they'd ship to you? Try ap armour from Canada or an American vendor...I can't see a problem shipping to Argentina.
  14. Remember there's a good and bad side to those mics...a white line on the good side. If the mic is free to rotate it may not work...and Bent up around chin.
  15. Well the bottom of the bells are obviously sticking out half an inch in your pics. Personally if youre just that broad shouldered and everything else is perfect I hope it won't prevent centurion. I'd get rid of any return edge on the bottom of the bells. Armour should sit flat against other parts.
  16. I don't understand. Which elastic is so tight? Biceps elastic should be loose. Top attachment just needs to be shorter by half an inch each. Safety pin it shorter and put it in. Does that fix it? Do your shoulder bells have a return edge on the bottom holding it out a quarter inch? Actually...if you swap the white double snapped nylon from left to right that moves the snap an inch...do they line up properly otherwise?
  17. If you're really replicating that one set of armour, the white elastic should be just behind the shoulder bell connection, not on the rear armour.
  18. Sadly some kits just don't line up nicely. Abs paste spread over some abs could fill that in nicely.
  19. Check the area Walmarts a few days before force Friday. Here they put all the stuff out early.
  20. I doubt it. No toy conversions allowed for centurion. Says so explicitly in the crl. I used an e-11 from the vendor in Barrie.
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