Bulldog44

Congrats to all the staff. Your service to the FISD is greatly appreciated and I wish you all a very successful year!

You get the record for longest T-tracks ever! Looked great without them but Looks even better with them added. I love this blaster! Talent my friend, talent!!

Genius! I have been waiting to see what you had in store for some time now and so happy to see these new developments. I had wondered during my build how they managed to get those rings on the end cap and did notice the rings on some Sterlings had some centered lines as if they were two parts but never felt certain about it. Great you solved the mystery! Is it possible to have similar d rings fabricated to snap together like the real ones? Or a plastic version? It would make it easier to leave the end cap as a solid piece as it actually is and then all you need to do is snap the ring parts together and cover up the outer seam. I realize you are doing the end cap in two parts for people with solid d rings and end caps parts pre separated but I think adopting the 2 piece d ring & a solid one piece end cap if possible would be the easiest and truest to Sterling construction. Maybe a another upgrade kit from Aaron's prop garage? The notch ring looks awesome and will be great if it works. Just wondering, is it possible to have a solid ring and have the notches cut by a machine shop? Probably expensive but would be a simple 1,2,3 install. I found that when I rolled aluminium sheeting over a tube form , the very ends never sat flush to the form. slight warping. this part does get covered up so probably not much of a concern I guess. The front sight guard will be neat if it can be done. I know nothing about the knurling process but saw one of those discovery channel shows once stamping knurling patterns into tool handles and other things. That would require some sort of reverse metal stamp you would need to hammer into a softer metal. I was thinking if there were flat metal sheets slightly thicker than the normal guard with the entire surface stamped in the knurling pattern , then it would be easier to sand/file/polish down the parts on each side without the pattern. Exciting news Aaron and can't wait to see more on these parts. Always ready to order more of these amazing upgrades regardless how much more Star Wars debt I am in!

Beautiful! You have skills finding nice deals on ebay! Scope looks great!

Ha! Silly me. I should not even have brought that up. Knowing you, you have all the angles covered. Hoping to see the barrel added and t- tracks soon.<br><br> I was just reading my previous post and I wrote bad a&$ but the filter prevented it and wrote "bad an impolite person" . I was like... I didn't write that. But then I remembered there is a filter for language. Oops.

Wow. That looks totally awesome Ian. Super work on this. That will keep those rebel scum on the run. I am still admiring all those venting holes you drilled on the receiver. Not sure how it would look but have you thought about adding an inner barrel ?

Can't wait to see more on this. Best of luck and thanks always for doing things in the spirit of troopers hoping troopers!

It looks great and seeing that comparison with the sterling handle solidifies how you nailed it.

That freakin stock is amazing Ian! This is one bad an impolite person blaster. You nailed it on making a stock work on a blaster this long. The counter came out beautiful as well. Nice ebay counter, especially you could use of the window from it too. You make it look easy to do all that.

Super newsletter ! Congratulations again Tim! Looking forward to a great year with you leading us !

Very cool. I was looking into these a few months back but gave up on trying to make one but after seeing your machine I might have another try. doesnt look easy but your info posted is super helpful. thanks for sharing. Inspiring!

Tino, Aaron's reply says it all and more. <br> I still can't believe how you did the the magazine release. Crazy skills my friend!

You can see some different mods done to the scope in the Blaster Reference in Chapter 23. You can access the reference by clicking the banner in my signature. Also you can see what drill bits I used to hollow out my scope in my blaster build. From what I can remember, I first drilled a small hole in the center of the lens as a catch for the larger drill bits and then used the larger wood drill bits from small to larger. I didn't drill too deep with each bit, just enough to give the next size up a stable center to sink into. Was scary as the bits tended to wobble about as is turned . http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28778-bulldog44-dd-e-11build/?p=367313 I think if you have a nice step drill bit that can give you the needed diameter and enough depth, you can hollow it out with more ease. Sorry, hard to explain these things with enough clarity. Hope it helps.

Hi Theo About the handguards, I use the latex handguards and never the plastic ones. I think you can curve them a bit for comfort near the wrist. This area will not be as visible so it should be safe to shape them to your wrist contour. But if you are looking at applying for Centurion at some point, I suggest getting a pair of latex hand guards. Good start on all your trimming!

Great start to your build thread. Super detailed. Looking forward to your progress. Looks like you have it all mapped out very well. Wish I was that organized on my build. Best of luck. <br> Love your Star Wars display cabinet!

Looking great. Nice clean build. <br> Hollowing the scope is a bit risky. I bought a second Doopy scope just in case things went bad when i attempted it but luckily it worked out.<br> Finding a real scope is possible if you keep your eyes peeled on ebay or here or on the RPF. They have become few and far between these days though. I was able to buy an M19 last year on the RPF but had to buy the DL-44 it came with at $425.00. Actually for a Doopy blaster I personally think the real scopes are far too heavy if you plan on using the blaster for trooping. <br><br> Keep up the great work.

The hybrid idea sounds great. I use magnets to secure my power cylinders but had to add a thin metal sheet underneath the resin. Having the base already metal would be super! Hope to see these soon!

Huge Godzilla-like roar of Congratulations all the way from Japan!

That droid caller looks amazing! Thanks for posting those photos DBoz.

Awesome! Price seems reasonable too since M119 scopes are hard to buy these days. Post some photos if you buy one and have it in hand.

Dday's E-11 kit is highly recommended. The price is higher than the DD kit but as a far as accuracy, it is he best out there. He offers an aluminum pre drilled pipe and all parts cast in black resin. Check out his sales thread , Phoneix Props E-11. TJay also is currently posting his build of a Phoenix prop e-11 and you can see how nice the detail is and the many options to add if you want. <br><br> The hyperfirm e-11 is a great choice too if you want to have a blaster ready in hand. Non-breakable.

Taking the bull by the horns! Love how you got to work on this so fast and with excellent results. The reflective quality after polishing looks amazing. Thanks for showing how to make the helmet look even better with those mods. Not sure I will be as brave when I get my helmet in hand.

Yes, an end cap with the indentation would be great! So many ideas for upgrades. But for now your work on this shows that anything is possible and with great results.

Interested as well !

Dday's pre drilled aluminum pipes are amazing and definitely recommend them if you find the tube you are using doesn't work out. It will cost you more money to get the pipe but worth it.