gmrhodes13

Nice work trooper, a few things you may want to address before the DO's get here. Your drop boxes should align with the end of the plastic belt. Thighs at the rear appear to be hitting your butt plate and it's being pushed outwards. Kidney plate is sticking out on your right side. Could you also provide a photo of your right side ab plate top snap. Note blasters don't normally have weathering on the grips or T track. Also the henglster (counter) is on a slight angle and could be straightened. Good luck with approval

Coming along nicely, you may find you will need to go for a larger armor AM is pretty much the largest

All previous updated A few more MG15 Barrel Templates, restored by gmrhodes13 How to helmet mounted speakers , restored by gmrhodes13 Recovering from a bad paintjob, restored by gmrhodes13 Another fan tutorial, restored by gmrhodes13 How to make your mrce ears thinner, restored by gmrhodes13 How to make replacement mrce brow trim, restored by gmrhodes13 How to Mod Icomm, restored by Sly How to mod drop boxes restored by Sly How to DLT20a from Cushman base, restored by gmrhodes13 How to make your own T track, , restored by gmrhodes13 How to create a finger trigger RomFX, , restored by gmrhodes13 https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10699-mg-15-barrel-templates/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/10123-howto-helmet-mounted-speakers/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/9592-tip-recovering-from-a-bad-spray-paint-job/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/7531-howto-another-fan-setup-tutorial/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/3176-howto-make-your-mrce-ears-thinner/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/3665-howto-make-replacement-mr-ce-brow-trim/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37188-modding-the-icomm-with-an-external-battery/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/1572-howto-mod-drop-box-to-carry-items/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4701-howto-dlt-20a-from-a-cushman-base/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/4332-howto-make-your-own-t-track/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2929-howto-create-a-finger-trigger-rom-fx/

Looking good, you could possibly bring up the ab/cod section if you have room.

Leaps and bounds, nice work

It helps to have a few pairs spare as they are pretty cheap, you tend to sweat a lot so swapping them out at a long troop is refreshing, nothing worse than putting back on a warm soggy pair

Nice work, can find humbrol paints on ebay still https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Humbrol-Enamel-5-Admiral-Grey-Gloss-14ml-Enamel-Tinlet-humb5/123050976800?epid=25017391248&hash=item1ca668e620:g:f78AAOSwbJJeyUKp&frcectupt=true Or you could use a grey primer and add clear over the top, I do this for TD's, easier to spray than hand paint

I guess it depends also on what paint will be used to, I find some will give a little when you flex but others will crack straight away so there is that to consider with using a flexible filament

I've used JB weld on a few cracks and it's pretty solid, also sandable. I would try to grind a V into the crack to give something for the JB weld to hold on too. I just find the JB weld holds better than a fibreglass fix.

Actually scratch that, one of the DO's commented about the screws in this thread and they are ok for L3

Do you have an images of the screws?

I think you will find once your handplates are glued on they will look better and bend a little to conform to the hands. I can get in a medium but went large so I can wear cotton liners inside, does get pretty sweaty in rubber gloves

Definitely increasing the infill helps strengthen parts, I found this with a recent battle droid build, was printing at 20% (to print fast ) but found on some areas like elbow joints it just wasn't strong enough for movement, couldn't take the strain, went to a 50% infill and is strong as nails. These are the things you learn on your way with 3D printing I guess. I've often looked at the flexible PLI and wondered if armor could be made out of that but I've not tried printing with that as yet, I fellow member has shown me one of his printed pieces and I'm amazed how much you can bend yet it still goes back to it's original shape.

Beautiful work

You can post multiple image links into a single post/thread but you want to use the "direct" link option or right click copy and paste. Nice work

You can get basic approval without a blaster, it's an option

You may even be lucky to sand the texture down and there may be enough paint to either apply some polish or perhaps a matt/satin clear BUT I can understand the eagerness to get on to the armor

Very nice, the only thing I would try to change would be the brow trim paint, looks a little textured

Interesting material, I'll have to do some searching locally

Very nice, what is the paint like with regards to cracking with flexing the hands

Appears separate Just note also that the CRL's are going under review at the moment and there may be a few changes on some pieces, I don't believe there will be any change to the belt at this stage

Very nice, coming along great

They came out great, nice work

Very nice finish. At this stage there is not a CRL in progress, someone needs to build the costume before one can be started. There is also not very much reference for the "movie/realistic" style Pyre, most references are from the animated version so what ever reference you can get the better, the LMO's won't approve a new CRL without enough reference material. Galaxy's Edge has the "movie/realistic" figure Some more figure references here https://jedibusiness.com/figureDetails.aspx?id=20416 Here you can see the differences between the two styles Realistic Animated Good luck and looking forward to the progress

Correct the arms are different also the biceps and that was the original design. Here is a great Anovos build for references